OOP Vogue 8626: the “journey” coat…

Vogue 8626
Vogue 8626

Vogue 8626

Does anyone watch X-factor/ Britain’s Got Talent/ other Simon Cowell type rubbish? Do you ever hear the contestants that are leaving talk about the “journey” they have been on during the course of the programme, and how much they have learned/ grown etc whilst they have been participating? Well, that’s how I feel about this coat. I will be honest….I don’t love this coat or the pattern (it was one I had in my stash). I wish I had had enough fabric to add the stand up collar, but I didn’t, and I don’t know if the pattern/ overall look is a little bit more “mature” than I would have liked. But this coat was all about the journey for me, and my attempt to learn some tailoring skills.

I used Jackets for Real People and thoroughly recommend it. BTW, what makes a coat “tailored” and not just “sewn”? According to the authors of Jackets for Real People, “Tailoring” is a method of sewing that makes a garment more durable than traditional dressmaking. It generally applies to coats and jackets. “Tailored” can also refer to a “man-tailored” fashion look with crisp details, masculine fabrics, and men’s suit styling. I attempted to use some tailoring techniques for the first time when making this coat, including:

  • Using a suitable interfacing. I ordered some Palmer/ Pletsch PerfectFuse Tailor Ultra interfacing to interface the jacket fronts and I also fused the elbow areas of both sleeves. I found this interfacing really was a cut above anything I can get locally to me, and if I was making another coat/ jacket of this weight I would definitely use this interfacing again. It has a handle almost like cashmere and is far superior to cheaper alternatives. Interfacing in general: something I need to learn more about!
  • Inserting a back stay. I drafted a pattern for a back stay using the upper back coat pieces, and cut the stay from some quilting cotton. The backstay protects the garment whilst you are reaching for things, and also whilst it is being hung on a hanger. The back stay was machine basted around the side, arm holes, shoulders and neck before making the rest of the coat up.
Vogue 8626 back stay

Vogue 8626 back stay

  • Making bound buttonholes. I followed the Coletterie tutorial, but I think this is something that I definitely need to practice!
Vogue 8626 - if you squint very hard you might just see one of my bound buttonholes

Vogue 8626 – if you squint very hard you might just see one of my bound buttonholes

  • Using sleeve heads to set the sleeves in. I used the “quick method” of setting the sleeves in using a strip of linen. You have to try this method to probably understand what a revelation it is. I got amazing, smooth, rounded sleeves on my first attempt, although admittedly, the fabric I used to make this coat is very easy to work with. Try it and you won’t be disappointed is what I say.
Vogue 8626 - close up of linen strip used to fill out the ease area of the sleeve cap.

Vogue 8626 – close up of linen strip used to fill out the ease area of the sleeve cap.

Vogue 8626 - inserted sleeve - smoother than a baby's bottom...

Vogue 8626 – inserted sleeve – smoother than a baby’s bottom…

  • Inserted piped lining. I used the Coletterie tutorial to make continous binding and made my own piping which I used for the lining, and I also inserted it along the coat front and along the seams at the back of the coat. I think it definitely adds a more professional touch.
Vogue 8626 piped lining - can you see my little foxes on the lining?

Vogue 8626 piped lining

Vogue 8626 back view

Vogue 8626 back view

  • Bagged the lining. This technique is “simply” machine sewing the lining hem to the jacket and turning the jacket right side out through an opening in the sleeve. Although this pattern calls for a free hanging lining, I decided to bag the lining and I think it has made the front hem hang a little funny, but I am hoping a good press might sort it. I am not going to lie, this technique was a little daunting, but hopefully it will become easier to understand the more I do it. What it meant was I got a lovely professional finish, with NO hand stitching involved – result!
Vogue 8626 - machined sleeve lining - no dodgy hand stitching for me!

Vogue 8626 – machined sleeve lining – no dodgy hand stitching for me!

Vogue 8626 - machine stitched sleeve lining openings - can you see  my little foxes?

Vogue 8626 – machine stitched sleeve lining openings – can you see my little foxes?

Pattern Review:

Pattern Description:

Lined coats in two lengths. I made view B (mid knee length). A – line without collar, close fitting with princess seams, back pleats, long sleeves with elbow dart and topstitching trim. I also added piping as a feature.

Pattern Sizing:

16 – 24

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, although I was working with “Jackets for Real People” in an attempt to learn some tailoring techniques.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I don’t love the pattern. I like the back on the finished garment. I am not so keen on the front. But it is very easy to sew.

Fabric Used:

Wool tweed? (tumble dried with damp towels and steam pressed prior to cutting) Don’t know exactly what composition the lining is exactly, but it was able to withstand a lot of pressing heat! The piping was made from a snakeskin effect manmade fabric of some kind.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

No pattern alterations as such. I cut my usual size for the bodice and one size larger for the skirt portion. This coat was an attempt for me to learn some tailoring skills, and so, for the first time,  I:

  • Inserted a backstay
  • Made bound buttonholes
  • Used the “quick” method of setting sleeves in (using a strip of linen)
  • Inserted piped lining and piping as a feature on some of the outside seams
  • Bagged the lining

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

No, I probably won’t sew this again, but I would recommend to others, but it is OOP now.

Conclusion:

It’s a nice simple pattern for me to have practised my tailoring techniques on, and I wore it out today and it was comfortable and kept me warm.

Vogue 8626

Vogue 8626

Vogue 8626

Vogue 8626

Vogue 8626

Vogue 8626

In conclusion, this has definitely been a journey, and sometimes one which I found daunting, but it has made me a better sewist for it….next time I will tackle taping a roll line and pad stitching!

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About sewmanju

I love to shop, but I also love to sew my own clothes, and am currently on a mission to improve my (fairly basic) dressmaking skills. I confess to going into shops and being outraged at the prices of some (not very well made) garments (is it an age thing?) and think "huh, I could make some thing at least as good as that for less" (is it something to do with coming from the Indian subcontinent?) So this blog details my sewing endeavours, both good and bad....I love to nosey through other people's sewing projects....now everyone can get to see mine.

12 responses to “OOP Vogue 8626: the “journey” coat…”

  1. Beth (SunnyGal Studio) says :

    What a fantastic coat, wow great finishing details, the piping and buttonholes. I know how much work it is for a coat like that but so worthwhile. And your fit looks great too. Very cute pattern, the back is a surprise with the pleating.

  2. Sam says :

    What a fab coat! I made my first coat towards the end of last year and wish I’d used some of the details you did. I fully intended to do a back stay, but somehow forgot! I think I was doing so many other things the pattern didn’t call for I missed this one. And after I’d finished I thought how nice it would have been to pipe the seams between the lining and front facings. Never mind, I’ll know for the next time I make a coat!

  3. black label says :

    mama mia this is simply gorgeous. love the coat fabric. excellent job!!

  4. sophie says :

    very nice … i’ll make it for my one

  5. Helen says :

    What a great job you did! the coat looks fabulous on you and I just love the pleats at the back. I’m going to google how to bag a lining, looks much more professional.

  6. sylkotwist says :

    Wow, so impressive!

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