Vogue 7975: A Quilted Boho Version: Construction Post 2

Vogue 7975 quilting the fashion fabric

Hey All,

Today I have a pictureless post to share with you :-) Aren’t you lucky?

BTW, the first construction post for this jacket can be found here.

Just wanted to update you on how this project was going, and largely talk about the pattern modifications that I have made.

Firstly, an update on the quilting: I have spent probably about 7 hours quilting so far! And I am about three quarters of the way through. Am I foolish? Or am I dedicated? You decide. I tend to do it in not more than 1 hour blocks, just to avoid complete brain death. It’s not hard once the first line is sewn. The other lines just run parallel to that one. But it is certainly quite boring. Put on something interesting to listen to, or to watch.

Here are my pattern modifications:

  • For this version I am making long sleeves (as opposed to 3/4 or bracelet length). This is a jacket which will be worn in cooler weather so I feel longer sleeves are more appropriate. I cut the sleeve at the line for view C/D and added 2 inches to the length.
  • I have added 1.5 inches to the length of all the pattern pieces
  • I added about 1 inch in total to the front of the jacket only, running from just above bust point down to bottom of the jacket, so this 1 inch is split equally over the front princess seams.
  • I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment.
  • I have added 3/8ths of an inch to all the seam allowances to make a total of 1 inch seam allowances. There are two reasons for this:
    1. Someday I may get round to making a quilted French Style Tweed Jacket thing, and on my Craftsy class (that I purchased for this purpose) you are told to use 1 inch seam allowances to allow for potential fraying of fabric. So this means I kill two birds with one stone.
    2. I think I will only actually use 5/8ths of an inch seam allowance to sew the current jacket and the 3/8ths will hopefully allow for any bulk added by the quilting. I can always make the jacket smaller if it feels too big. So it is a little bit of a built in safety factor.

That’s all I got for you today. Tomorrow I got a busy day of running to piano lessons, dentist appointments (for my daughter) and taking her to her swimming class so maybe by the weekend I can get to the cutting out stage.

More soon!

Vogue 7975: A Quilted Boho Version: Construction Post 1

Vogue 7975 quilting the fashion fabric

Hi Friends,

For my next White Tree Fabrics project I have decided to make a quilted boho (?) style jacket using some gorgeous Geninne Cloud9 organic cotton. It is the sashiko bird navy colourway and I have already washed, dried and iron this fabric. It is colour fast and wonderfully soft and smooth without being too lightweight either.

Here is my inspiration:

Quilted jacket inspiration - the Emerline print quilted jacket by Monsoon. [Source]

Quilted jacket inspiration – the Emerline print quilted jacket by Monsoon (2013). [Source]

The inspiration jacket features princess seams front and back, welt pockets, a centre front zip fastening and a combination of mirrored and pom pom trim. The inspiration jacket has the lining quilted to the outer fashion fabric, but as I explain below, I have decided not to do that. My jacket is not going to have any fastenings and I have ordered some trim, but I am not sure whether, yet, it will be entirely suitable.

I am using Vogue 7975 as my pattern. I have already made this jacket once before. I took it out of the wardrobe today and tried it on and I am actually astounded at the fact it doesn’t look that bad, given that I made this jacket quite early on in my sewing life. Ok, there are things I wish I had done differently and the size needs slight tweaking, but it wasn’t too bad. If anything at least it has given me a muslin to work from.

In this picture you can see the outer fashion fabric and also the printed cotton I plan on using to line the jacket. The lining fabric, featuring a stag print, was bought locally to me. I don’t know if it is one of the Liberty’s of London rejects that they used to print…

Moody Blues by Geninne - Sashiko Bird Navy Organic Cotton and Stag Print Cotton for Quilted Version of Vogue 7975

Moody Blues by Geninne – Sashiko Bird Navy Organic Cotton and Stag Print Cotton for Quilted Version of Vogue 7975

As mentioned above, I am not quilting the lining to the outer fashion fabric. This is because I think the quilting will be too hard to manage, in order to achieve a pucker free finish on both the lining and the outer fabric. Also, I don’t want to hand sew seams or flat fell seams on this project, so I have decided to quilt the outer fashion fabric to the wadding and then line the jacket.

Here’s the details of the wadding I am using:

Vogue 7975 quilted jacket wadding details

Vogue 7975 quilted jacket wadding details

I have no idea if this is the most appropriate type of wadding to use…I chose it because it is not very lofty and seemed the easiest to work with!

I am working with a total of 3 metres of outer fashion fabric. Today I laid my pattern pieces (still to be adjusted) out roughly on the fashion fabric and decided, to make the quilting process more manageable, to cut the fabric in half and quilt one half at a time. It took me just over 2 hours to put all the diagonal quilting lines on one half, and I made a small start on the diagonal lines that run at 90 degrees to the first set. My quilting lines are approx. 2 inches apart (to create 2 inch squares).

Vogue 7975 quilting the fashion fabric

Vogue 7975 quilting the fashion fabric

I used my walking foot throughout, and the guide it comes with (the metal bar above) to make sure I was getting lines 2 inches apart.

Here’s what it looks like so far:

Vogue 7975 quilting the fashion fabric

Vogue 7975 quilting the fashion fabric

So that’s where I am at. This is a project which is going to take a little time. And, to be honest, I don’t know what the outcome is going to be like, or even if I will like it. But that’s part of fun of sewing, isn’t it? Isn’t it?

Until soon, have a great weekend.

Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse + Butterick 6182: DIY Pussy Bow Tie Neck Blouse + DIY A-Line Dark Denim Skirt

Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse and Butterick 6182 A-Line Dark Denim Skirt
Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse and Butterick 6182 A-Line Dark Denim Skirt

Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse and Butterick 6182 A-Line Dark Denim Skirt

Hello There Dear Friends,

I have missed you! We were in India for 5 weeks and returned just over a week ago. I missed my sewing machine! The day after we returned, I spied this Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse pattern, which I had printed out months ago, sitting on top of my shelves, and decided to sew it using some viscose georgette from my stash. It is a pretty quick make, so I decided to carry on with the 70s inspired look and sew up the skirt from Butterick 6182 (you can see the top I made from this pattern here). And hey presto! A complete look that will hopefully carry me from this inclement weather through to autumn. Speaking of which, I wore this outfit yesterday (it was Phil’s birthday), and it was pouring with rain the whole day, which is why you are getting indoor shots.

Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse and Butterick 6182 A-Line Dark Denim Skirt

Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse and Butterick 6182 A-Line Dark Denim Skirt

I have got a few things to say about the blouse pattern…check out my review below. My overall feeling about the blouse is that I love wearing it (in fact, wearing it right now over skinny jeans). As for the skirt….yes, I think I like it too. I think it might need slight tweaking at the back if I made it again (don’t know if I would), and I don’t know how sensible it was to put an invisible zipper in a denim skirt, so there’s that…

Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse and Butterick 6182 A-Line Dark Denim Skirt

Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse and Butterick 6182 A-Line Dark Denim Skirt

I used a printed cotton for the pocket facings, and I also bound the inner waistband seam and topstitched it in place from the outside, rather than turning and slipstitching in place. Handstitching = dislike for me. Speaking of which, I machined everything in making the blouse as well, rather than slipstitching the collar and cuffs as instructed.

Butterick 6182 pocket facing

Butterick 6182 pocket facing

Butterick 6182 inside waistband seam

Butterick 6182 inside waistband seam

I used a contrasting topstitching thread to add some interest to the pockets, side seams and hem of the skirt. You can read about the changes I made to the skirt pattern below. I love the little button loop on the blouse.

Butterick 6182 topstitching detail

Butterick 6182 topstitching detail

Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse Button Loop Detail

Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse Button Loop Detail

Pattern Review Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse

Pattern Description:

The Pussy Bow Blouse is a classic design that will always be in style. With two different style options you can choose between a v-neck version or a keyhole opening. Stylish and versatile, it’s perfect for the office but can be dressed up for a night out. We promise it’ll be the perfect accompaniment to your favourite pencil skirt.

The perfect pattern for showcasing drapey fabrics, it works best in a rayon, sandwashed silk, crepe or other lightweight fabric with a lot of drape.

The Pussy Bow Blouse is an intermediate pattern, so we recommend you have a few dressmaking projects under your belt. If this is your first time using lightweight drapey fabrics, remember to take it slow and don’t be shy with the pins!

Pattern Sizing:

8 – 20

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. Although I will be honest and say they are not as good as the sutton blouse instructions. Given that the recommended fabrics for this blouse include sandwashed silk, crepe de chine etc, I personally thought it was a little disappointing that there was no mention of french seaming etc. I made my blouse out of viscose georgette so used an overlocker to finish my inside seams.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the finished blouse. It is so easy to pull on and wear. It looks great with skinny jeans or tucked into a skirt. You can dress this blouse up or down very easily. The fit is good (although I will make some minor tweaks next time).

Dislikes:

There are no lengthen or shorten lines. I compared the sleeves and body to a Big 4 blouse pattern I had and from that shortened the sleeves by 1.5 inches and did a 1 inch sway back adjustment.

You have to cut your own (very small) bias strip to make the button loop: don’t understand why this piece couldn’t have been included in the pattern?

No differentiation between different size cutting lines.

No mention of french seaming etc (see above).

Fabric Used:

Spotted viscose georgette.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Shortened sleeves by 1.5 inches.

Approx. 1 inch sway back adjustment.

Next time round I would staystitch the neckline I think, add a tiny bit of length to the front of the blouse and move the shoulder seams forward by approx. 0.5 inches.

I machined everything and didn’t handstitch the collar or cuffs as directed.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, I would love to sew this in a silk. Yes, I recommend, but as the pattern indicates, maybe not to a complete beginner.

Conclusion:

Fun, feminine and very on trend whilst being very classic at the same time…

Pattern Review Butterick 6182

Pattern Description:

Loose-fitting, pullover top or dress has bias neck facings, and sleeve bands. A: Narrow hem. Skirt has wide waistband, side-front pockets, front pleat and invisible back zipper. B and C: Stitched hem.

Pattern Sizing:

6 – 22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes, although I didn’t make mine with a wide waistband, and I added extra topstitching.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the pockets. I think I like the overall shape. I didn’t want the wide waistband so I changed that.

Fabric Used:

A dark denim.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • The waistband pattern piece for this skirt measures more than 6 inches wide (unfolded width). I made mine 2 inches wide (folded width).
  • Due to fabric constraints, I had to piece my waistband.
  • I omitted the interfacing in the waistband, although I did interface the zipper area.
  • I cut the pocket facings from a printed cotton to minimise bulk.
  • I bound the inside waist seam and topstitched from the outside rather than turning over and slipstitching.
  • I removed 1.5 inches from the length of the skirt and made a 1.5 inch hem.
  • I added contrast topstitching at the pockets, hem and side seams.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I don’t know if I would sew this particular skirt again. Yes, I would recommend.

Conclusion:

A fun skirt to complete the 70s vibe of my outfit.

Ah, so much more to say about India etc but that will have to be in another post. BTW, you can also now catch me on instagram (sewmanju). See you all very soon!

Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse and Butterick 6182 A-Line Dark Denim Skirt

Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse and Butterick 6182 A-Line Dark Denim Skirt

OOP Simplicity 2317: DIY Piped Cotton Summer Pyjamas

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas
Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

Hi There Friends!

I was in need of some lightweight, comfortable pyjamas suitable to wear during the hot humid nights in India (where were are currently on holiday), that were also modest enough to wear to lounge around in.

I had Simplicity 2317 in my stash and, having found some reasonably priced cotton/ cotton lawn, I set about making them up. The review below is only for the top half of Simplicity 2317; the bottoms are made using Simplicity 2823, which I have previously sewn and blogged about here. The only modification I made to the bottoms this time round was that I lengthened them by 1 inch and narrowed the legs by 4 inches in total (removing 1 inch from the inner and outer seams, both front and back).

Let’s call the first version (the blue floral version) a wearable muslin…

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

This version is made using a lightweight, soft cotton lawn. For both versions I made my own bias binding. For this version I had the (not) brilliant idea of using flat piping. Why did no one tell me that it is the hardest thing in the world to get flat piping inserted evenly?! Despite careful measuring, pinning, basting etc, the piping is not even. I am not even going to show you close up shots. Trust me. These PJs are perfectly wearable, but not my most professional work.

Another thing which made getting this piping inserted nicely very difficult was the sharp corners at the collar points and the facings. I rounded these corners off on version two…

Here’s the back view of this first version. I shortened the length by a further 1.5 inches on version 2.

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

On to version two, made in a cotton. I prefer the look of this version, but the feel of the cotton lawn of version one. So something to bear in mind if I make these up again.

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

This time round I made a corded piping. And as mentioned above, rounded off the corners at the collars and facings. Ah, so much nicer. I know this next picture looks like a jumbled mess, but hope you can see the piping is way, way better. I also added a bow to the front of each PJ bottom to differentiate the front from the back.

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas - piping and front bow close up

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas – piping and front bow close up

I notice the top button does look like it is straining a little on this version…but IRL I wouldn’t wear these with a bra and so I don’t think I would have that problem :-) They don’t feel tight anyway.

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Misses’ & Men’s pajamas, nightshirt, knit top, and misses’ knit shorts and tank top sewing pattern. I made the Pyjama top using view D. The bottoms are sewn using Simplicity 2823.

Pattern Sizing:

8 – 18/ XS – XL

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes, although my version has short sleeves.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. Very.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

With the modifications I made I like them. I can see these possibly becoming a TNT pyjama pattern for me. I dislike the fact that the sharp collars makes getting the piping on nicely very hard. I rounded the corners off on my second version.

Fabric Used:

Cotton lawn for version 1; cotton for version 2. I made my own flat piping for version 1 and my own corded piping for  version 2.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

These are a classic collared pyjama pattern. They have approximately 8 inches of ease, so pick your size accordingly! I sized down. I initially shortened the length by 2.5 inches, but on my second version shortened the length by a further 1.5 inches. I cut 12 inches off the length of the sleeves and halved the width of the sleeve bands. I rounded off the corners on the collar and facings to make the piping insertion easier. I added a bow to the front of the bottoms to differentiate front from back.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, I may sew these again. I would like to make them up in silk. Meh. I don’t know if I would. There seems to be so many pyjama patterns out there. I like them now….with my modifications. However, they are good value for money if you want to sew the other items included.

Conclusion:

I am pleased I took the time to make these. Now I am fairly happy with the fit I can see more of these in my future….

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

Simplicity 2317: DIY Summer Pyjamas

Until soon!

Butterick 6179: DIY White Linen Twill Culottes

DSC_9471
Butterick 6179: DIY White Linen Twill Culottes

Butterick 6179: DIY White Linen Twill Culottes

Hi Friends,

Can a not very tall (5’3″), curvy woman pull off midi length voluminous culottes? I personally think the answer is yes. What do you think?

Butterick 6179: DIY White Linen Twill Culottes

Butterick 6179: DIY White Linen Twill Culottes

These culottes were made using Butterick 6179, and I highly recommend them if you want a true “divided skirt” look.

They are, as the pattern states, fast and easy, and I sewed them up with absolutely no pattern changes (aside from making the hem a little deeper than suggested).

Butterick 6179: DIY White Linen Twill Culottes

Butterick 6179: DIY White Linen Twill Culottes

I wore them out to a lunch with a friend with my crossover wrap top and felt cool, comfortable and stylish. I wish you could see the fabric in person! It is an amazing linen/ cotton mix twill that I purchased from Mandors in Glasgow. It has the most expensive looking sheen to it in real life.

Butterick 6179: DIY White Linen Twill Culottes

Butterick 6179: DIY White Linen Twill Culottes

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
MISSES’ SKIRT AND CULOTTES: Skirt or culottes have waistband, side-front and side-back seams and back zipper. A: Bias front and back. C: Topstitching. D: Side pockets. I made view D, the culottes.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished shape and look. It’s just like wearing a circular skirt. Very comfortable and the fit is perfect. Be warned: I don’t think the notches match up properly on the inner leg seam and the waistband. It wasn’t a problem for me (a little maths required to make sure the overlap on the waistband was ok) but as this is rated as a very easy pattern by Butterick I think it might throw some beginner sewers off.
Fabric Used:
A linen/ cotton twill.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Absolutely no pattern changes! Not even to the length.

I picked my size according to the finished waistband length, and compared the front and back crotch curves to another pant pattern I had previously sewn and they looked good, so I went ahead with cutting out.

I topstitched the waistband rather than handstitching it. I made the hem 2 and 1/4 inch and hand stitched that.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Not sure if I will sew again (although I also think these would be great done in a wool for winter) and I do recommend.
Conclusion:

Culottes: you either love them or hate them. I love these!

Husband’s verdict: their nice but a little ridiculous. Hmmm….men…!

Until soon.

Butterick 6179: DIY White Linen Twill Culottes

Butterick 6179: DIY White Linen Twill Culottes

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987: DIY Guipure Lace, Chiffon Georgette, Embellished Ball Prom Dress

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress
Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress

Hello Dear Friends,

Last night I attended the PTA ball at my daughter’s school. The dress code was black tie and I wanted to make something special to wear for the occassion. What do you think?

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress

The bodice of this dress uses Vogue 8998, which I made previously here. The skirt is made using the skirt portion from McCalls 6987: the high-low hem view.

All the materials were purchased from eBay. There was absolutely no chance of me finding anything appropriate/ suitable fabric wise anywhere local to me so I ordered everything online.

I started with the guipure lace first, which I ordered 1 metre of, sight unseen. I was fairly confident with this seller and the photographs etc that I wasn’t going to be disappointed, and I wasn’t. This lace is stunning, and is also almost identical to the lace used in this Eliza J dress currently on sale for £150. Just saying. It is a gorgeous coral/ watermelon colour. Beautiful.

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress - close up of guipure lace

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress – close up of guipure lace

I then ordered samples of the lining fabrics and the crinkled georgette chiffon and made sure I was happy with them before ordering. The linings and the chiffon georgette are polyester. I can live with that.

The bodice is lined with a polyester lining and the skirt is lined with a soft polyester mix jersey fabric. The dress is fully lined (bar the sleeves which I cut to take advantage of the scalloped edges) and an invisible zip inserted. All the seams of the chiffon skirt were french seamed. I used my serger to finish edges inside where necessary. I underlined the bodice and midriff section (with silk organza) – you can read about that in the review below, and I made a rolled hem for the chiffon on my serger. I left the jersey lining unhemmed.

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress - lining

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress – lining

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress - rolled hem close up

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress – rolled hem close up

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress

I have to tell you about the belt, which I felt was the perfect finishing touch to the dress, and just gave the outfit that little bit more pizazz. The belt is the Paloma Silver Crystal Rhinestone Belt made by a lovely lady called Rachel who was amazing, and after I sent her samples of my fabrics, colour matched the grosgrain ribbon for the belt. I have lightly tacked the diamante part to the midriff of the dress so that I can remove it for cleaning purposes. You can see all of Rachel’s items in her eBay shop here: lots of lovely sparkly things! If you are considering making a special occasion dress or adding something to a RTW dress I highly recommend checking her shop out and she also does custom orders for bespoke designs. I do have to say that Rachel was kind enough to offer the belt to me on a complimentary basis in exchange for me providing a review of the item on my blog.

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress - close up of diamante belt detail

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress – close up of diamante belt detail

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Lined dress has close-fitting, interfaced bodice with princess seams, inset band, skirt variations (horse hair finish on hemline) and back zipper. A: cap sleeves. A, B and C: skirt seam detail. D: collar. D, E and F: gathered skirt with princess seams, and side pockets. F: band and skirt overlays. Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A, B, C, D.

Pattern Sizing:

6 – 22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

The dress I made is an amalgamation of Vogue 8998 for the bodice and McCalls 6987 for the skirt. I have made, and reviewed, Vogue 8998 previously.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

I didn’t really use them, but from before, yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I have already written why I love this pattern: this second version makes me love it more. For me the bodice and midriff pattern is just great. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used:

A gorgeous coral coloured guipure lace for the bodice and a polyester crinkled chiffon georgette for the skirt. I used a polyester lining for the bodice and a polyester mix jersey for the skirt lining. The bodice and midriff sections were underlined with silk organza.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

The dress I made is an amalgamation of Vogue 8998 for the bodice and McCalls 6987 for the skirt.

  • I pinched out 0.25 inches either side of the front neckline (removing a total of 0.5 inches) to stop the straps from sliding off my shoulders.
  • I shortened the back bodice by 1 inch, tapering to nothing at the sides
  • I raised the front armhole curve by approx. 0.5 inch
  • I did not line the sleeves but cut them to take advantage of the scalloped edges
  • I used an invisible zip. Both layers of the skirt hang free below the zip
  • The bodice is underlined with a layer of the chiffon georgette and a layer of silk organza
  • The midriff is underlined with a layer of lining and a layer of silk organza
  • I added a centre back seam to the skirt piece
  • I added 5 inches to the length of the outer skirt and about 3 inches (?) to the length of the lining

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I don’t know if I would sew this exact same look again but I would not discount using the bodice again. Yes I recommend.

Conclusion:

I felt suitably attired for the ball and it was a great night of enjoying time with friends and dancing. My head felt a bit sore this morning but it was worth it. Have a great week ahead everyone!

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress

Vogue 8998 + McCalls 6987 DIY Ball Dress

McCalls 6291, McCalls 6991 and Butterick 5926: Printed Pants, Crossover Wrap Top and Ponte Blazer

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer
McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

Hello Friends,

As I mentioned in my last post I am frantically trying to sew things for our forthcoming trip to India and I have also, finally, started to make a dress for the PTA ball I am attending in a couple of weeks time. More on that to follow. Today’s outfit was sewn because I thought it would be good to travel in: the viscose pants and top will keep me cool when we reach warmer climes but covered up at the same time, and I thought the ponte blazer again might be good to travel with on the plane (don’t know about you but I always find the a/c on planes too much). Something I have realised is, if I am sewing separates, I have to make sure I have something appropriate to wear to complete the outfit; otherwise the separate piece just doesn’t get worn!

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

As time is ticking, I decided to sew patterns I have sewn before. Minimum fit problems! So, the patterns I used were:

  • (OOP) McCalls 6291 for the printed pants. This is actually the third time I have made this pattern (a personal record for someone who doesn’t go back to a pattern all that often), and I think this time I have perfected the fit. Version 1 here; version 2 here. This time round I shaved a further 0.5 inch off each inner and outer seam, front and back i.e. 2 inches in total – this means I have now removed a total of 10 inches from each leg from version 1! I also raised the front crotch by a futher 0.5 inches from last time. This is a viscose print fabric purchased locally to me, and I have cut the fabric on the cross grain to make the pattern run lengthwise down the leg – less headache pattern matching and more flattering IMO. I also made the hem on this version slightly smaller; turning over 0.25 inch and then 5/8 inch.
McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

  • McCalls 6991 for the crossover wrap top. You can see the first version of this top here. This time I essentially made View A, but added the sleeves from View B and the tabs from View C. No other changes were made. The fabric is another viscose, purchased from Minerva Fabrics in the UK. I cannot vouch for the other colours of plain viscose in this range, but this red is amazing. Washes, drapes, sews and presses beautifully and is fabulous to wear. Plus Red. Uhuh. Wearing red makes me feel happy. I used gold buttons on the sleeve tabs to up the glam factor.
McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

  • Butterick 5926 for the ponte blazer (fabric purchased on ebay). First version of this blazer was blogged here. No changes to the fit. To be honest, when I finished this blazer I was a bit meh about it. I had been so tempted to download the new Grainline Morris blazer but I just didn’t want the extra time taken on a completely new to me garment. However, I must say I have worn this blazer already, including for a full day trip on the train to see an old friend, and it is very comfortable. I think it’s the very (intentionally) bland colour that made me feel meh, and the facings are a bit skimpy but I think I will probably end up wearing this a lot. BTW, I used Craftsy’s Modern Jacket Techniques to learn how to sew a notched collar properly and I cannot recommend it highly enough. I will definitely be making myself a woven blazer in future using this class.
McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

I am entering this entire outfit into the Plus Size Contest currently running over on PR.com. so head over if you want to see all the other entries.

Have a great week ahead everyone!

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

McCalls 6291, 6991 and Butterick 5926: printed pants, crossover wrap top and ponte blazer

McCalls 6988: DIY Little Black Dress LBD Peplum Flounce Hem

McCalls 6988 LBD with peplum flounce hem
McCalls 6988 LBD with peplum flounce hem

McCalls 6988 LBD with peplum flounce hem

Hi Friends,

I don’t tend to wear that much black. I know lots of you love it. But I can see the value of having a great LBD in your wardrobe, so I thought I would try my luck with McCalls 6988. I didn’t want something too evening-ish, but I didn’t want something boring either. I am going to be honest…I am not sure about this one.

McCalls 6988 LBD with peplum flounce hem

McCalls 6988 LBD with peplum flounce hem

I think the uncertainty is partly to do with the fabric. This is a (I think) wool viscose crepe fabric which, sadly, does tend to crease quite easily (and doesn’t like to be ironed that much either). Also, I didn’t line this dress (the instructions are for an unlined dress) and so I am wearing it with a slip underneath. Further, the sleeves are cut from a piece of silk georgette I had, and I messed the hem up first time, and ended up cutting them shorter that I would have liked. Sigh.

Here’s the back view (dislike. No amount of pressing/ steam will eliminate those zipper wrinkles – also need to add a hook to the top):

McCalls 6988 LBD with peplum flounce hem

McCalls 6988 LBD with peplum flounce hem

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Semi-fitted dresses have self-lined yokes, princess seams, and back zipper. A and B: flounce and narrow hem. B: front overlay. B and C: below elbow sleeves. D: short sleeves. Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A/B, C, D.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I don’t think it’s the pattern I dislike. I think the pattern is essentially ok. I dislike my fabric because it didn’t press very well and creases easily; I think I wish I had lined it, and I messed the hem up on the silk georgette sleeves so they are shorter (and possibly tighter) than I would like. Nothing to dislike about the pattern.
Fabric Used:
I think it’s a wool viscose crepe with silk georgette for the sleeves.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I removed a total of about 0.5 inches in width from the front and back necklines to get it to stay on my shoulders.

I made a narrow 5/8ths inch hem on the flounce.

I added 2 inches in length to view B.

I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment.

I omitted the facings and substituted in bias strip facings.

I used an invisible zip.

I think I shortened the sleeves by about 3 inches.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don’t know and yes. I think it’s the fabric and lack of lining in this particular case which have put me off this dress a little.
Conclusion:

Hmmm…well, I made this a few weeks ago and I have not had an opportunity to wear it yet. I think my quest for the perfect LBD continues….

We are going to India in a month or so for almost 5 weeks and I am frantically sewing up stuff for then. I also have a school PTA ball to attend in less than 3 weeks and have yet to make a dress for it! I don’t know how frequent the blogging will be in these parts for a while, but hopefully see you all back here soon. Until then….

McCalls 6988 LBD with peplum flounce hem

McCalls 6988 LBD with peplum flounce hem

Simplicity 1364: DIY Vintage Pattern Button Back Boat Neck Top – Simplicity’s Star Sewist Entry

Simplicity 1364 - vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity's Star Sewist Contest 2015.
Simplicity 1364 - vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity's Star Sewist Contest 2015.

Simplicity 1364 – vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity’s Star Sewist Contest 2015.

Hello Readers,

Hope you are all doing fine, and enjoyed the long weekend some of us have had. Well, today I wanted to share Simplicity 1364 with you. As always you can check out my full pattern review below but first I have to fill you in on the back story as to why I have made this pattern up.

Simplicity 1364 - vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity's Star Sewist Contest 2015.

Simplicity 1364 – vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity’s Star Sewist Contest 2015.

Simplicity UK are running a contest to find a “Star Sewist”. You can read all about it here. Basically, there are three categories; dressmaking, vintage and newcomer. To enter one of the three categories you had to request one of the three pre-selected patterns chosen by Simplicity and they then sent the pattern out to you (for free). The closing date for entries is the end of this month. Surprisingly I didn’t go for the dressmaking category. If I am being perfectly honest I wouldn’t have chosen to sew any of these three patterns up for myself, so it was a case of chosing a pattern I felt I would be comfortable wearing. So that is why, shock, I went for the vintage category. I figured it would be the pattern I could make most feel like me.

Simplicity 1364 - vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity's Star Sewist Contest 2015.

Simplicity 1364 – vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity’s Star Sewist Contest 2015.

I think, after much fiddling with the pattern, I did end up with something wearable, for me. (In fact it has already been worn). It is more of a tunic now, with side vents, and I think the button back adds some interest. Sorry, but this fabric (viscose) is not the easiest to photograph details on. Also, I went for pale blue buttons which are also quite hard to spot amongst the cream/ pale blue flowers.

Simplicity 1364 - vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity's Star Sewist Contest 2015.

Simplicity 1364 – vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity’s Star Sewist Contest 2015.

Simplicity 1364 - vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity's Star Sewist Contest 2015.

Simplicity 1364 – vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity’s Star Sewist Contest 2015. Close up of button back placket and sleeve tabs.

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
1960’s vintage Jiffy top is simple to sew and has three miain pattern pieces.Top has back zipper, bateau neckline, french darts and can be sleeveless or can have below elbow length sleeves.
Pattern Sizing:
8 – 24
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, with some changes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn’t really follow them…
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I am being honest when I say, were it not for the contest, and being provided this pattern by Simplicity, I probably wouldn’t have sewn this pattern up. It is vintage in style (which is not really my thing) and it is relatively short. However, with the modifications that I made I do like the finished top (and have already worn it), although if I made this pattern again I would lower the front neckline a smidge, make the hips a tiny bit looser and shorten the length of the sleeve tabs. Note that most of these tweaks are my own personal taste and not a reflection of the pattern per se.
Fabric Used:
A vibrant floral printed viscose which would be beautiful for a vintage style dress (or top). I bought this fabric locally to me.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added approx. 5.5 inches to the length of this top to make it more of a tunic length.

I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment.

I had to add approx. 2.5 inches to the side seams of this top at the hips to make it fit.

I shortened the french darts by 1 inch.

I added side vents.

I omitted the facings and substituted bias facing strips.

I lengthened (and widened) the sleeves and omitted the elbow darts and added sleeve tabs with buttons.

I removed 5/8ths inch from the centre back on either side and then added 2 inches to the left centre back seam (to fold over by 1 inch twice, and stitch down), and added a buttonhole placket to the right centre back seam. I added buttons/ buttonholes rather than a zip.

All insides were overlocked to finish.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don’t know if I would sew again, but if I did I would tweak as mentioned above. If dressing like Audrey Hepburn is your thing then go for it.
Conclusion:

I don’t have any regrets about sewing this pattern up, although it’s a departure from my normal pattern selection and style, and it does need a little more refinement, it’s an eyecatching top with some interesting details to have in my wardrobe.

The results for this contest will be announced at the beginning of July, and are decided by the judges.

Until soon….

Simplicity 1364 - vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity's Star Sewist Contest 2015.

Simplicity 1364 – vintage button back boat neck top. Entered in Simplicity’s Star Sewist Contest 2015.

New Look 6248: DIY Pink Wool Boucle Tweed Oversized Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat
New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

Hello There My Friends,

Today I am back to share a coat that I made using New Look 6248: what can best be described as an oversized, unstructured boyfriend style coat, which I made using a very sugary pink wool mix boucle. BTW, does anyone know what the exact difference is between boucle and tweed? I have tried googling the answer and still don’t know…I would love to hear from any experts out there.

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

Anyway, here’s the deal: summer has not yet reached this corner of the world. I mean, we are barely breaking into spring. Yesterday we had thunder, lightning, hailstones, torrential rain and sunshine…in one day. So, I wanted a lightweight spring coat. Something to keep the chill away but not heavy. (BTW, you can see my spring coat from last year here – still enjoy wearing this).

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

I picked this wool mix boucle? tweed? up in Glasgow when we were there during the Easter Break (purchased from Remnant Kings). I fully interfaced all pieces of this coat. I did not block fuse, but cut each interfacing piece out separately (on grain) and fused to the corresponding piece. I picked the interfacing up from my local market. It was sold as “reinforced interfacing”, which, I was told, was perfect for fusing to unstable fabrics (such as boucle). Has anyone come across this interfacing before? I am including some close up pictures below. It is quite delicate and easy to pull apart so you have to be careful when handling it. I think it worked out ok. It made handling the boucle easier but didn’t affect the handle of the fabric. Does anyone have any better suggestions for interfacing boucle? I also pre-treated my fabric by steaming it with my iron.

Reinforced interfacing recommended for "unstable fabrics".

Reinforced interfacing recommended for “unstable fabrics”.

Reinforced interfacing recommended for "unstable fabrics".

Reinforced interfacing recommended for “unstable fabrics”.

The coat is fully lined with a viscose lining…I bagged my lining out (as I normally always do) and for once the instructions actually tell you how to do this! (Although I didn’t use them…I like Grainline’s instructions). I also included a back stay cut from some left over muslin.

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat - interfacing back piece and back stay

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat – interfacing back piece and back stay

Everything else you want to know is in my review below – the thing you have to watch out for with this pattern is that it is drafted to include eleven – that’s right- 11 inches of ease. I went down a size and I am perfectly happy with the slouchy, drop shouldered fit. Interestingly, this coat was declared far too big by Phililp (husband) and my mother, and my brother – who never comments on what I wear or make – used the M word. That’s right, he said it looked like a Maternity coat! Hmmm….it’s a good job I dress to please myself :-) The one thing I am going to change though is the covered button. I don’t like it and have got a smart matt gold button which I will swap out later.

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Misses’ coat with side pockets can have long or elbow length sleeves . For visual interest add contrast sleeve binding and hem. Coat can also have a deep stand collar and choice of one or three buttons.

I made view C, the collarless view, with the longer length sleeve.
Pattern Sizing:
10 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes – they also include instructions to bag the lining out. Although I used the method I like (from Grainline’s blog).
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Well, I like the finished garment. Yes, it is oversized, drop shouldered, slouchy and unstructured, but I like it. There are 11 inches of ease in this garment so pick your size carefully. I sized down. My husband and mother think it is far too big and my brother – who never comments on what I wear or sew – said it looked like a maternity coat. I don’t think it is too big. I like the fact separate lining pieces are included. Nothing I disliked as such. I am going to change the covered button for a matt gold one – I don’t like the look of the covered button.
Fabric Used:
A wool mix boucle with a viscose lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I interfaced all pieces of this coat using reinforced interfacing to stabilise the fabric and I am pleased with the outcome.

I shortened the length by 1 inch.

I added lined patch pockets.

I added a muslin back stay.

I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Don’t know if I would sew it again myself. One maternity coat when one is not expecting is enough :-) Yes, I would recommend it.
Conclusion:

I like this boyfriend style and I think this pattern offers some interesting options like the contrast sleeve and hem bands etc.

So that’s it from me for now. Look forward to hearing your opinions on this one. It does feel a little like I am back wearing a lab white coat, hahaha. Seriously, I have already enjoyed wearing this coat and will continue doing so. Until soon….

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

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