New Look 6248: DIY Pink Wool Boucle Tweed Oversized Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat
New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

Hello There My Friends,

Today I am back to share a coat that I made using New Look 6248: what can best be described as an oversized, unstructured boyfriend style coat, which I made using a very sugary pink wool mix boucle. BTW, does anyone know what the exact difference is between boucle and tweed? I have tried googling the answer and still don’t know…I would love to hear from any experts out there.

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

Anyway, here’s the deal: summer has not yet reached this corner of the world. I mean, we are barely breaking into spring. Yesterday we had thunder, lightning, hailstones, torrential rain and sunshine…in one day. So, I wanted a lightweight spring coat. Something to keep the chill away but not heavy. (BTW, you can see my spring coat from last year here – still enjoy wearing this).

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

I picked this wool mix boucle? tweed? up in Glasgow when we were there during the Easter Break (purchased from Remnant Kings). I fully interfaced all pieces of this coat. I did not block fuse, but cut each interfacing piece out separately (on grain) and fused to the corresponding piece. I picked the interfacing up from my local market. It was sold as “reinforced interfacing”, which, I was told, was perfect for fusing to unstable fabrics (such as boucle). Has anyone come across this interfacing before? I am including some close up pictures below. It is quite delicate and easy to pull apart so you have to be careful when handling it. I think it worked out ok. It made handling the boucle easier but didn’t affect the handle of the fabric. Does anyone have any better suggestions for interfacing boucle? I also pre-treated my fabric by steaming it with my iron.

Reinforced interfacing recommended for "unstable fabrics".

Reinforced interfacing recommended for “unstable fabrics”.

Reinforced interfacing recommended for "unstable fabrics".

Reinforced interfacing recommended for “unstable fabrics”.

The coat is fully lined with a viscose lining…I bagged my lining out (as I normally always do) and for once the instructions actually tell you how to do this! (Although I didn’t use them…I like Grainline’s instructions). I also included a back stay cut from some left over muslin.

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat - interfacing back piece and back stay

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat – interfacing back piece and back stay

Everything else you want to know is in my review below – the thing you have to watch out for with this pattern is that it is drafted to include eleven – that’s right- 11 inches of ease. I went down a size and I am perfectly happy with the slouchy, drop shouldered fit. Interestingly, this coat was declared far too big by Phililp (husband) and my mother, and my brother – who never comments on what I wear or make – used the M word. That’s right, he said it looked like a Maternity coat! Hmmm….it’s a good job I dress to please myself :-) The one thing I am going to change though is the covered button. I don’t like it and have got a smart matt gold button which I will swap out later.

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Misses’ coat with side pockets can have long or elbow length sleeves . For visual interest add contrast sleeve binding and hem. Coat can also have a deep stand collar and choice of one or three buttons.

I made view C, the collarless view, with the longer length sleeve.
Pattern Sizing:
10 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes – they also include instructions to bag the lining out. Although I used the method I like (from Grainline’s blog).
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Well, I like the finished garment. Yes, it is oversized, drop shouldered, slouchy and unstructured, but I like it. There are 11 inches of ease in this garment so pick your size carefully. I sized down. My husband and mother think it is far too big and my brother – who never comments on what I wear or sew – said it looked like a maternity coat. I don’t think it is too big. I like the fact separate lining pieces are included. Nothing I disliked as such. I am going to change the covered button for a matt gold one – I don’t like the look of the covered button.
Fabric Used:
A wool mix boucle with a viscose lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I interfaced all pieces of this coat using reinforced interfacing to stabilise the fabric and I am pleased with the outcome.

I shortened the length by 1 inch.

I added lined patch pockets.

I added a muslin back stay.

I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Don’t know if I would sew it again myself. One maternity coat when one is not expecting is enough :-) Yes, I would recommend it.
Conclusion:

I like this boyfriend style and I think this pattern offers some interesting options like the contrast sleeve and hem bands etc.

So that’s it from me for now. Look forward to hearing your opinions on this one. It does feel a little like I am back wearing a lab white coat, hahaha. Seriously, I have already enjoyed wearing this coat and will continue doing so. Until soon….

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

New Look 6248 Oversized Pink Boucle Boyfriend Spring Coat

Butterick 6182 and OOP McCalls 6291: DIY cropped navy cotton top and tapered printed trousers pants

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants
Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

Hi Friends,

Today is a different silhouette for me. I normally avoid wearing shorter length tops and like to have plenty of bum coverage. But I have been seeing lots of these printed pants everywhere and thought that a shorter length top might just balance out the looser, more relaxed fit of these bottoms. What do you think?

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

The top is made using Butterick 6182, which is a Lisette pattern. I made view A. Full review below. I will say that I am 5 foot 3 inches, and I know it depends on your torso length and personal preference etc, but I added 2 inches to the length and I wouldn’t want it any shorter. So what I am saying is, make sure you are ok with the length before comitting to cutting out your fabric.

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

The fabric I used to make this top is a cotton lawn which has a wide embroidered border, which ran down the length of one selvedge. So I cut the body of this top on the cross grain to make full use of the border, which also meant I didn’t have to hem the bottom of the top either.

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

The bottoms (or pyjama bottoms as my husband refers to them) are made from OOP McCalls 6291, which I made last summer – see here for full details and original review.

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

To make this version I removed a total of 8 inches of width from each leg – 2 inches from each of the front and back inner and outer seams. I raised the front crotch by 1 inch and the back crotch by 0.5 inch. I don’t know if I may raise the front crotch a tiny bit more next time? I also omitted the elastic cuff at the ankles, instead turning over 0.25 inch and then another 1.25 inch to hem. Very easy to make and soooo comfortable and cool. Even if they do look and feel like pyjamas. BTW the fabric is a rayon, purchased from my local market.

Pattern Review for Butterick 6182

Pattern Description:
Loose-fitting, pullover top or dress has bias neck facings, and sleeve bands. A: Narrow hem. Skirt has wide waistband, side-front pockets, front pleat and invisible back zipper. B and C: Stitched hem.

I made view A.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I like the finish inside with the bias neck facing and I do like the finished garment – although I don’t normally favour shorter length tops I think it balances out my looser fit trousers. I am 5 foot 3 inches, and I know it depends on your torso length and personal preference etc, but I added 2 inches to the length and I wouldn’t want it any shorter. So what I am saying is make sure you are ok with the length before comitting to cutting out your fabric. I found the cut on sleeves to be a tiny bit snug and so took a smaller seam allowance to compensate and they are fine. Could just be my arms, but something to watch out for.
Fabric Used:
A cotton lawn with a wide embroidered border, which ran down the length of one selvedge. So I cut the body of this top on the cross grain to make full use of the border, which also meant I didn’t have to hem the bottom of the top either.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I added 2 inches to the length of the final top. I found that the sleeves were a tiny bit snug, so I ended up taking just a 0.25 inch seam allowance for the sleeve bands and at the armholes. Next time round I would cut these areas to be bigger.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, perhaps. Yes, I would recommend.
Conclusion:

I didn’t think I would like this shorter silhouette but I think it looks good with my new printed pants. Sometimes it’s good to step outside of our comfort zones and try something new.

Until soon.

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

Butterick 6182 navy cotton cropped top and OOP McCalls 6291 tapered printed trousers pants

Vogue 1359: DIY Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress

Vogue 1359: Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress
Vogue 1359: Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress

Vogue 1359: Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress

Hello There Friends,

Hope you are all ok. Today’s post is about Vogue 1359, a dress I have made once before: see here. This might sound strange, but I have only worn that dress a couple of times since it was made. I think it was the fabric that I didn’t love? But there was something about the pattern which I did like (I do like things with twists/ drapes/ gathers at the waist). And then I saw this Boden dress and it was my inspiration:

Vogue 1359: Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress

Vogue 1359: Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress

Check out my original post on this dress for the modifications I made. This version is made in a soft cotton jersey (I think? It’s been in my stash for a little while). The only changes made this time were to the lining. Last time the front bodice lining was far too short…although I discovered this may have been due to me omitting to attach the neckline facing. So for this version I added 3.5″ to the front bodice lining piece (I will only add 2″ next time), tapering to 2″ at the sides and continuing round to the back sides, then tapering away to 0, 4 inches away from the centre back seam. The body of the dress is fully lined with a soft mystery stretch fabric. EDITED: forgot to say on my first version, the shoulders felt like they were slipping too far down my arm so I did a bit of a cheats adjustment and just made the pleats at the shoulders larger (0.5″?). I also stabilised the shoulders with elastic.

Vogue 1359: Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress - lining

Vogue 1359: Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress – lining

I obviously shortened the sleeves as well and – for the first time ever! – interfaced the hems (with knit interfacing) before twin needling. Results…ok…probably a bit better than without the interfacing….I am a bit meh on it. Maybe try again on my next knit dress project.

Vogue 1359: Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress

Vogue 1359: Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress

The one thing I wish I had done differently is stay stitch the neckline. It’s annoying because it’s something I would normally do, but the instructions don’t make mention of it, and I forgot. So I think the neckline has stretched…it is trying to stand away from the body somewhat…but I think I rescued it by fusing the facing to the dress neckline using some double sided hemming tape and the weight of the lining seems to be holding the neckline in place.

These pictures were taken a couple of weeks ago and since then it has become cold and wet again. Blah! But I have worn this dress a couple of times and I genuinely do love it because it is so easy to wear and the lining means it is flattering too. I could see this dress being worn year round and it just pulls on. Sometimes simple is the best, right?

Until soon.

Vogue 1359: Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress

Vogue 1359: Twist Front Floral Jersey Dress

True Bias Patterns Sutton Blouse: DIY Upcycled Silk Kimono Sleeve Contrast Yoke Blouse

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk
True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk

Good Morning Friends,

A lovely sunny, albeit little cool, morning here. Today’s post is something a little different for me. I don’t normally do upcycling/ recycling…but I had two silk pieces languishing in my wardrobe and couldn’t bear to get rid of the beautiful fabrics, so I decided to make a blouse. First let’s take a look at the original pieces, shall we?

Me circa 3.5 years ago, wearing a silk fit and flare dress purchased online from John Lewis.

Me circa 3.5 years ago, wearing a silk fit and flare dress purchased online from John Lewis.

The first silk piece came from this silk fit and flare dress that I purchased about 3.5 years ago to wear to a friends wedding. I have never worn this dress since then. Why? Truthfully the fit was never perfect, it was sleeveless (don’t like sleeveless) and have not had an occassion to wear it since then.

Me about 10 years ago wearing a silk saree.

Me about 10 years ago wearing a silk saree.

The second silk piece came from this silk saree. I know the colour in this photo looks very different to the colours of the blouse, but trust me, they are the same fabric.

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk

So the pattern is of course the Sutton Blouse from True Bias. I selected this pattern specifically for this project because I knew I wouldn’t have enough of the floral dress silk to make a blouse in its entirety. You can see I used the dress silk (cut from the skirt portion) to cut the main body pieces, and some of the silk saree to cut the contrasting yoke. The silk saree is probably closest to a crepe de chine. Before anyway points it out, I made the deliberate choice to cut the main body of the blouse with the flowers pointing downwards because that was the only way I could fit the pattern pieces on to the fabric. And I am fine with that.

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk

In terms of the pattern itself – check out my full review below. I was dubious before starting sewing what this pattern would be like but I have to give Kelli full marks for the instructions – they are brilliant. Don’t be fooled in to thinking this is a simple sew. It is a fairly simple design, yes, but Kelli’s instructions are written specifically with sewing fine fabrics in mind and the finish is wonderful. It was actually quite a challenging sew and I learned lots doing it.

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk - inside finish

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk – inside finish – neckline finished with silk bias facing, yoke seams sewn with french seams and side seam neatened with overlocking.

Another thing I wanted to point out is that I pre-washed my fabrics. I don’t do dry cleaning, unless it is something I know I will only wear occassionally. I would not take a silk blouse to be dry cleaned every couple of weeks. So even though the dress was labelled as dry-clean only I pre-washed it, together with the saree using a silk specific detergent and a colour catcher sheet. I did get a little bit of bleeding but not that you would notice much. Don’t try and wash silk or wool with a detergent which contains biological enzymes – they will destroy your fabric!

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
The Sutton Blouse is a loose fitting V-neck top with kimono sleeves, a one piece yoke, and a back inverted pleat. The back is longer than the front and includes slits at both of the lower side seams.
Pattern Sizing:
0 – 18
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Instructions are top notch. I am a fan of Big 4 patterns – anyone that reads my blog knows that – but if this were a Big 4 pattern it would not tell you how to finish the insides the way the instructions for this particular pattern do. The inside finish is beautiful. This is probably a slightly challenging sew simply because of the kind of fabrics you are likely to use to make this top, but if you follow the instructions you will end up with a beautifully finished and constructed piece.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished top – so light and comfortable and easy to wear. I didn’t like the fact that there were no finished measurements provided and also I would have liked a neck to waist measurement to be given. Kelli (the designer) tells me she is looking into adding the finished measurements to future patterns.
Fabric Used:
Upcycled silk from a silk dress and a silk saree.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
Aside from adding 1 inch to the length of the pattern and maybe an inch at the hips – nothing.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Maybe and yes.

Conclusion:

Very pleased that these beautiful fabrics have found a new lease of life in a more wearable garment. Great easy to wear piece.

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk

True Bias Sutton Blouse made from upcycled silk

Have a great week ahead everyone!

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket: White Tree Fabrics Project

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket
Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

Hi Friends,

First of all thank you for all your lovely comments on my last post. At the end of that post I said I had made a jacket to go with the dress. Well, not exactly to go with the dress. But I felt a smart dress like that needed a smart jacket that I could throw over it if necessary. So, as my next White Tree Fabrics project, I decided to make a black satin tuxedo style jacket from Vogue 8958.

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

I have to say that the satin is very hard to photograph without showing it as being incredibly wrinkled. I promise you, in real life it doesn’t look that bad!

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

White Tree Fabrics very generously supplied me with the pattern, this premium duchess satin and this premium viscose lining. I prewashed all the fabrics before sewing and I can testify they wash and sew beautifully and the end product looks very high quality.

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket – Inside Lining

The Vogue pattern itself is a great pattern to have in your stash. I think it is their take on the Le Smoking tuxedo jacket first shown by YSL in 1966. It’s just a classic pattern and I would love to make up view D sometime in a crepe. It also features 2 piece sleeves which give a great shape and are very comfortable to wear:

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket - two piece sleeve

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket – two piece sleeve

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket - flap and button detail.

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket – flap and button detail.

I have quite a bit to say on the pattern: see below for full details.

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Fitted, lined vest or jacket has collar variations, shoulder pads, princess seams and front button closing. A: button trim. B: flaps. C and D: side front pockets. B, C and D: two-piece sleeves.

I made view B.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes – although I did some of my own things.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished fit (see notes below!), the two piece sleeves and the overall shape. Nothing to dislike as such.
Fabric Used:
Duchess Satin (not silk) outer with viscose lining.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
First thing to say is that I reckon there is about 3 – 4 inches of ease in this pattern. As I figured I would only be wearing this jacket to more evening type events over a thin blouse or dress I decided to size down by one size.

I think the instructions call for sew in interfacing? (Can’t actually remember now). I used iron on knit fusible interfacing. In addition to interfacing the jacket facing, flaps and under collar as per the instructions I interfaced all the hems and also fused a back stay.

I added a pleat to the lining at centre back.

I added 1/4 inch extra height to the armholes of the lining at the front, back and sleeves to allow more ease with the lining.

I shortened the sleeves by 3 inches.

I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment.

I bagged out the lining. The pattern has you bagging out the body: don’t see why Vogue couldn’t have just gone one step further and instructed you how to bag out the entire jacket?
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would like to sew view D sometime. Yes, I recommend, although this jacket is rated as easy and I thought there was quite a bit of work involved: it did take me a while to sew up.
Conclusion:

I am severely lacking in smart jackets in my wardrobe, so I am very glad to have this one as a start. I wore it over skinny jeans and a silk top (to blog soon!) on Friday night to a local fashion show and was very pleased with how it felt and looked.

Until soon and have a great week ahead.

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

Vogue 8998: DIY Floral Silk Fit and Flare Dress

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress
Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Dear Friends,

I have finally finished Vogue 8998! This dress was started back in October of last year, when I hoped to complete it in time for my 40th birthday. Alas, I ran out of silk (ordered from a Chinese ebayer) and had to wait a considerable length of time for more to arrive. And then we moved house, and you know, I didn’t have an occassion to finish the dress for etc. But, thanks to my overlocker being in the shop, it forced me to pick this project up and finish it. And I am so glad I did!

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

There are, I think, 25 individual pieces to sew together to form the outer part of this dress. So multiply that by two for the lining and another 12 pieces or so to cut for the underlining. My outer fabric is silk, I underlined with silk organza, and the lining is silk cotton. All fabrics were purchased from 2 Chinese eBay sellers. I did perform a flame test on the fabrics and I am fairly confident they are the real deal. Note – it is worthwhile labelling each skirt piece so you know which piece is which, and which side is the right/ wrong side!

Vogue 8998 - silk organza underlining

Vogue 8998 – silk organza underlining

Vogue 8998 - labelling skirt lining pieces

Vogue 8998 – labelling skirt lining pieces

The hem of the skirt has horsehair braid (or what I could get hold of that is supposed to  be horsehair braid), handstitched to the wrong side of the lining of the skirt. The hem of the skirt lining is then sewn to the hem of the skirt (right sides together) and the whole thing turned right side out so that the horsehair braid and all of the seams are enclosed inside the garment.

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress - horsehair braid at hem

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress – horsehair braid at hem

It does give a lovely shape to the skirt, and makes for a very swishy affair.

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

You can read about changes I made to the pattern in the review below. One thing I wish I had perhaps done differently is that, it might not be that apparent from these photographs, but I do feel the waistband looks a little wavy. I think I should have used 2 layers of silk organza to stabilise and support the waistband more, but hey, we live and learn. No way am I going to change it now…it would mean taking everything apart. Also, I do feel the sleeves are quite wide…I did try and take them in a bit…if I was making again I would try and do something about them. (Perhaps the fact I underlined the sleeves as well isn’t helping with the “wideness”).

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Lined dress has close-fitting, interfaced bodice with princess seams, inset band, skirt variations (horse hair finish on hemline) and back zipper. A: cap sleeves. A, B and C: skirt seam detail. D: collar. D, E and F: gathered skirt with princess seams, and side pockets. F: band and skirt overlays. Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A, B, C, D.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I did deviate somewhat.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished shape and fit. And I love the feel and shape of the skirt with the horsehair braid in it. I think the sleeves are a little wide? I took them in by about 0.5 inch front and back, but if I was sewing again I would look at this. Maybe the fact I underlined the sleeves with silk organza is also contributing to them looking a little too wide? I think I would do something about the armholes being too cut in for my liking if making again.
Fabric Used:
Silk (maybe charmeuse? or lightweight satin?) for the outer; silk organza underlining and silk cotton lining.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I pinched out 0.25 inches either side of the front neckline (removing a total of 0.5 inches) to stop the straps from sliding off my shoulders.
  • I shortened the back bodice by 1 inch, tapering to nothing at the sides.
  • I shortened all the skirt pieces by 5/8ths of an inch.
  • I ended up taking a 1 inch seam allowance at the centre back seam.
  • I made the sleeves approx. 1 inch smaller in total.
  • I machined the waist band lining to the skirt lining, and didn’t hand stitch as the instructions tell you.
  • I installed an invisible zipper.
  • I underlined the sleeves.
  • I wish I had double underlined the waistband: I think the waistband looks ever so slightly wavy in places and I think it would have benefitted from more support.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I might sew this again…if I had a special occassion coming up. Yes. I recommend.
Conclusion:

This is a perfect pattern to sew for a spring or summer wedding I think. My version, at least, is so light and comfortable and makes me feel very feminine and elegant. Highly recommend.

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Vogue 8998: silk fit and flare dress

Come back in a few days and check out the satin jacket I made to go along with this dress. Until then!

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan #8027 – DIY Sewn Woollen Lambswool Blend Cardigan

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan
Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

Dear Friends,

Yesterday it snowed. It’s April and it snowed. Yes, I know some of you in other parts of the world are also still awaiting real spring to arrive, but gosh, I was miffed driving through the horrible, wet, cold sleet. So I came home and decided to sew a cosy cardigan.

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

I chose Burdastyle’s Esther cardigan. The only modifications I made were a 1.5 inch sway back adjustment and to shorten the sleeves by 2 inches. I realise now of course that I should probably have left the 2 inches were it was, but I like the 3/4 sleeve length. Ok? And if I really want them full length, I just unfold the cuff. Like this:

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

The fabric is a delicious 25% lambswool, 25% cotton, 50% tencel blend, purchased from this ebay seller, whom I have used before, and describe themselves as an “Italian Textile Company”. I like the fact this seller carries a variety of different (including technical, performance) fabrics, all very high quality, and is happy to send out samples for no additional cost. I don’t think there is any more of this particular fabric left, but it is wonderfully soft, warm and definitely cosy.

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

I taped the pattern together, made my modifications, cut the fabric out and did my tailor tacks yesterday afternoon and sewed it together (all on my overlocker) over a couple of hours this afternoon. Once you have got your head around how the pattern pieces go together, this is a fast and easy make, although don’t rely on the instructions too much…I was able to figure out what to do myself but everyone else who has made this has said the instructions are rubbish.

Photographed just now in the grey, cold, windy evening.

Not the blog post I wanted to bring you, but it is just too horrible to photograph the stuff I wanted too.

Until soon…

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

Burdastyle Esther Cardigan

Vogue 8952: DIY Silk Woven Front Wool Jersey Pullover Top

Vogue 8952: Woven Silk Front Wool Jersey Top
Vogue 8952: Woven Silk Front Wool Jersey Top

Vogue 8952: Woven Silk Front Wool Jersey Top

Hi Friends,

It’s good to be back with you. I have been quiet on the blog for a little while. This is because my serger was in for a service/ change of both blades. Whilst it was being looked at, I started a couple (ok, started 2 new projects, picked up a UFO) of more detailed projects, which still need to be finished. When I got my serger back on Saturday evening I blasted through this quick make top (you know, just to make sure my serger was working ok :-))

Vogue 8952: Woven Silk Front Wool Jersey Top

Vogue 8952: Woven Silk Front Wool Jersey Top

This is Vogue 8952, which is actually designed for 2-way stretch knits. I used a very lightweight wool jersey (which has 2-way stretch) for the sleeves, back and neck band. The front is a silk crepe de chine. I cut the front on the bias to get enough stretch to make the pattern work. Also, I cut my regular size at the neck, shoulders and arms, but graded out a size at the bust and waist to account for the non-stretch fabric. All, in all, I think the fit is pretty good. I wore it all day yesterday and it felt very comfortable: lightweight but covered up and easy to move in.

Vogue 8952: Woven Silk Front Wool Jersey Top

Vogue 8952: Woven Silk Front Wool Jersey Top

Vogue 8952: Woven Silk Front Wool Jersey Top

Vogue 8952: Woven Silk Front Wool Jersey Top

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Pull-over tunic has shaped hemline, wrong side shows, and narrow hem. A: neck band. B: collar. A and B: close-fitting through bust. C: fitted through bust.

I made view A.
Pattern Sizing:
XSM – XXL
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I have seen tops like this in RTW…jersey tops with woven fronts. I thought this pattern would be good to try that look out. I love how my top is casual but the silk crepe de chine front makes it feel a little more special and dressed up. Nothing to dislike. So quick and easy to make up.
Fabric Used:
Lightweight wool jersey for the neck band, sleeves and back. Silk crepe de chine for the front.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I shortened the sleeves by 2.5 inches initially, then shortened them further to add 2 inch wide cuffs. I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment. I cut my silk on the bias to get the greatest amount of stretch and cut my regular size at the neck, shoulders and arms, but graded  up a size at the bust and waist to allow for the non-stretch fabric. All in all, I think it worked out great. I also serged the hems and turned up once to hem.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Don’t know if I would personally sew this again up, but I do recommend.
Conclusion:

I love the smart casual-ness of this top. Great addition to my wardrobe.

Vogue 8952: Woven Silk Front Wool Jersey Top

Vogue 8952: Woven Silk Front Wool Jersey Top

See you all soon!

Closet Case Patterns Ginger Skinny Jeans: DIY Dark Denim Skinny Fit Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans
Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Hello Friends,

I am absolutely thrilled to say that I have finished sewing my first ever pair of jeans: Closet Case Patterns Ginger Skinny Jeans. And I love them! If I had any doubts at the start about the validity of sewing my own jeans those doubts have been well and truly dispelled. IMO, these jeans are comfortable, flattering and the perfect fit  – for me.

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

You can read my first post about these jeans here.

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

What do I want to say about these jeans?

Well, I don’t know what weight or percentage lycra my denim has in it. I would say, at a guess, it is a medium weight denim with not very much lycra in it (less than or equal to 2%)?

In the end I did spend quite a bit of time trying to perfect the fit on these jeans (in addition to making a muslin – see the first post). As the pattern suggests, I basted the jeans together and tried them on. They were too loose below the knees so I pinned out the excess from both the inner and outer seams, unpicked and cut the legs narrower. I then re-basted, tried on again, and decided they were a tad too small (!) around the ankle. Sigh. So I sewed them in that area with a 0.5 inch seam allowance and they are a perfect fit.

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

You can read the full details on all pattern modifications below.

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

The eagle eyed among you would have noticed I decided to do my bar tacks and button hole in contrasting red thread. I only used one machine to sew these jeans up (and my overlocker to finish seams – I decided against the flat felled seams in the end). So I was dealing with swapping between 3 different thread colours. But it personally didn’t bother me doing so. I also didn’t have any problems installing my rivets or button – but then I don’t think my rivets or button are the real deal heavy duty metal type. They are what I could source locally to me. Some detail shots:

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Back Pocket Detail

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Back Pocket Detail

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Pocket Stay and Bound Fly Extension

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Fly Topstitching

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Fly Topstitching

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Coin Pocket and Rivet Detail

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Coin Pocket and Rivet Detail

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Classic 5-pocket jeans are given a fresh look with the Ginger Jeans sewing pattern. With a modern and flattering cut, this is the daily staple you’ll reach for again and again. View A features a comfortable low rise with narrow stovepipe legs. View B is sexy and high-waisted with skinny legs.  Designed for stretch denim, Ginger Jeans will hug you in all the right places.

Engineered to be as flattering as possible, Ginger Jeans feature subtly shaped back pockets to highlight the curve of the bum, slimming side seams and a higher back rise to prevent peekabooty.

I made view B, the high-waisted view with skinny legs.
Pattern Sizing:
2 – 18.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are good but the sewalong is the bomb! These are the first pair of jeans I have ever made and they make the process painless.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
For me these jeans are the perfect modern skinny jean. There is nothing to dislike.
Fabric Used:
A dark wash denim of unknown weight or lycra percentage. Sorry :-) At a guess I would say these are a medium weight denim with less than or equal to 2% lycra?
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
To start with, I cut a size 16 at the waist and a 18 at the hips and thighs, tapering back down to a size 16 below the knees. I ended up keeping the ankle at a size 16, but removed a further 1 inch in total from each leg from the calf up to the knee. I removed the 1 inch from both inside and outside seams.

I ended up pinching out 2 inches in total from the waistband and making it more curved to account for my proportionally smaller waist and sway back. The waist is a perfect fit. No gaping. Amazing!

I initially shortened the length by 2 inches but ended up adding in 1 inch below the knee, because I like my skinny legs to be slightly gathered around the lower calf.

I added the pocket stays – they make such a difference to the tummy area! I cut my stays from a soft cotton shirting.I understitched the pocket linings.

I moved the back pockets over towards the centre back seam by 1 inch.

I ended up scooping the front and back crotch out by 0.25 inch.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. I most definitely would. It’s just a question of finding the right denim. Yes, I very much recommend.
Conclusion:

I have avoided wearing proper jeans for around 3 years because of problems with fit. These jeans address all the previous problems I faced: no gaping waistband, no bulging tummy, no digging/ cutting in or riding up and just the right amount of fit on the calves. If you have the confidence to try this pattern you won’t regret it. It’s the perfect first-timers pattern.

I am entering these jeans into The Jeans Contest on Sewing Pattern Review, so head over if you want to see all the amazing entries.

Have a great week everyone, and happy mothers day (as it is here in the UK). See you soon!

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Patterns Ginger Skinny Jeans: Fit and Construction Post

Closet Case Ginger Jeans
Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Hello Friends,

I have started sewing a pair of Ginger Skinny Jeans by Closet Case Patterns, and thought I would share my thoughts on fit and construction prior to showing you the finished jeans (hopefully later this week).

Sewing jeans is, for most home sewers, a daunting task. I have never sewn a pair of jeans before (or even proper fitted trousers). Let me tell you I am so impressed with the detailed sewalong for this pattern, which really makes the process easy.

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

I did make a muslin. No, I didn’t make a muslin out of denim. I made it from a thickish stretch cotton sateen, more than anything to check the fit of the crotch. I am sure I read somewhere Heather saying something like the crotch on these jeans are designed to fit most people, and I read it and thought “yeah, yeah”, but for me, at least, they seem to fit very well. (Sorry I don’t have any muslin pictures). So the actual changes I made to the pattern are minimal:

  • I cut a size 16 at the waist, grading to a size 18 at the hips and thighs and grading back down to a size 16 below the knees. As others have said, even if you fall a couple of inches outside of the pattern sizing range give this pattern a try because the way it is drafted, together with the ease from your stretch denim, chances are you can make it fit.
  • I ended up pinching out 2 inches in total from the waist band, which probably brings it to a size 14, but, more importantly for me, curved the waistband round to account for my (proportionally smaller) waist and sway back.
  • I shortened the pattern by 2 inches but added an inch back to the final length below the knees. I like my skinny jeans to be slightly longer and gathered round the calf.
  • I have moved the back pockets over by an inch towards the centre back seam. The pockets haven’t yet been topstitched in place, just basted, so their position may change yet.
  • I added the pocket stay, cut from some soft cotton shirting.
Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

In terms of construction the biggest tip I can give you is to either get one of those humpjumper attachment thingys to fit your sewing machine or just do what I did, fold a spare piece of denim up and place directly behind your machine foot when you come to sewing over thicker layer like the yokes or the edges of the coin pocket. It raises your machine foot to the same level as the fabric you are sewing so you don’t get those horrible skipped, uneven stitches. This is such a great tip to use on so many sewing projects, not just jeans….anywhere you have thick seams to get over.

Sewing over thick layers of denim using an improvised humpjumper

Sewing over thick layers of denim using an improvised humpjumper

I am going to baste my jeans together and have a final try on before the final sewing up. I think I will do the flat fell seam finish on the inside and outside leg seam. I never thought I would say that sewing jeans is very satisfying and hopefully the end result will be worth it.

Until soon, have a great week ahead.

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