Butterick 5870: DIY wool jersey cowl neck dress

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey

This is my second version of Butterick 5870. You can see my first version (which I love!), and my pattern review  here. The first version was pretty spot on in terms of fit. This time round the only adjustment I made was adding 0.5 inch to the length of the front bodice.

The fabric I used this time round was this wool blend jersey from Minervacrafts. It is soft and a lovely deep purple rather than the lighter purple shown on their website. I was so excited about getting this fabric, infact, that I put the other dress I am making (for my  birthday next week) on hold to do this dress. I never do that; I am a one project at a time kind of gal. I have to finish something before I move on to the next. Nonetheless, I figured this would be a quick project to do and off I set.

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey

Problem number one: I really struggled to get all the required pieces cut out of the 2m length of fabric (which is the amount the suggested on the pattern envelope). Yes, the Minerva fabric is 140cm wide and not 150cm, but wow, I had to get creative with the cutting, and the front of my cowl and the back bodice have seams where I had to join pieces but it doesn’t bother me too much and really isn’t all that apparent. Just be aware there are lots of pieces to cut on the fold for this dress, and the cowl piece is pretty big!

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey

Problem number two: as mentioned above, the first version of this dress was almost perfect in fit and that’s probably one of the reasons I love wearing it and was so desperate to make a second wintery version. The pattern envelope recommends using 2-way stretch jersey fabrics. Well, this is a 2-way stretch fabric and I checked the compatibility of the stretch with the guide on the pattern envelope. All fine. BUT, the waist seam on this dress is WAY too high for me; it is practically an empire line! It is probably sitting a good 3 inches above my natural waist (where I would prefer the waist to sit).

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey

I went back and checked my first version; it appears that is actually a 4-way stretch, and that is why the waist seam on that version hits just about at the right spot. So lessons learned: a) if making this pattern with a 2-way stretch be aware that the waist seam sits HIGH and b) different fabrics, even if both stretch, behave differently.

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey

So, this version is much shorter than I normally wear, and the waist seam is no where near my waist. BUT it probably won’t stop me from wearing this dress cos it is just so comfy and snuggly and warm and perfect for this colder weather. We had a frost this morning and I think it might even snow soon. Brrrr.

Have a great Sunday!

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey

Butterick 5870 cowl neck version in wool jersey



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About sewmanju

I love to shop, but I also love to sew my own clothes, and am currently on a mission to improve my (fairly basic) dressmaking skills. I confess to going into shops and being outraged at the prices of some (not very well made) garments (is it an age thing?) and think "huh, I could make some thing at least as good as that for less" (is it something to do with coming from the Indian subcontinent?) So this blog details my sewing endeavours, both good and bad....I love to nosey through other people's sewing projects....now everyone can get to see mine.

13 responses to “Butterick 5870: DIY wool jersey cowl neck dress”

  1. prttynpnk says :

    I love it! D’you know I cut this pattern out on thursday because of your previous version?? Beautiful enabling!

  2. Debbie Cook says :

    I love the purple! It may not fit just like your first version, but it’s still very pretty and flattering.

    Just a little note … when the Big 3/4 say “two-way stretch,” it really means what we call four-way stretch. Two-way stretch is just referred to as “knit” or “stretch” on the pattern envelopes.

    • sewmanju says :

      Firstly, thanks for the compliment, Debbie. Secondly, wah?!! 2-way stretch is 4-way stretch?!!? Well, I am glad someone told me this cos I would never have known! Hey, you learn something every day…. thank you for educating me Debbie!

      • Debbie Cook says :

        Yeah, it’s really frustrating that different places call the same thing by a different term. They should just say “knit that stretches in both directions.” lol It’s hard enough to find just the right fabric sometimes. It shouldn’t be a guessing game too.

  3. black label says :

    Love this dress on you, the colour, the style…& even the empire line!!
    Also, know that pattern piece tetris is being played in my sewing room at the moment too….you are not alone 🙂

  4. Beth (Sunnygalst says :

    Great dress for winter love the color on you.

  5. Dawn says :

    Another lovely dress! And check out the beautiful autumn leaves too :)x

  6. Sylvie says :

    I love this version so much that I want to make one just like it! I’ll have to look for the right fabric too, I would like a wool blend for the winter but it must be hiding under another catagory. Also, I noticed this version doesn’t have the gathers at the shoulders (and I would assume the back?). Was this part of the pattern or did you do it yourself? Thanks!

    • sewmanju says :

      Hi sylvie there are gathers at the shoulders but they just aren’t very obvious! There are also gathers at the back. So no, I didn’t change the pattern in that respect. I made another version of this dress in jersey where you might be able to see the details a little more clearly? Have a search on my blog under the same pattern number and it should come up.

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