Butterick 5870: DIY wool jersey cowl neck dress
This is my second version of Butterick 5870. You can see my first version (which I love!), and my pattern review here. The first version was pretty spot on in terms of fit. This time round the only adjustment I made was adding 0.5 inch to the length of the front bodice.
The fabric I used this time round was this wool blend jersey from Minervacrafts. It is soft and a lovely deep purple rather than the lighter purple shown on their website. I was so excited about getting this fabric, infact, that I put the other dress I am making (for my birthday next week) on hold to do this dress. I never do that; I am a one project at a time kind of gal. I have to finish something before I move on to the next. Nonetheless, I figured this would be a quick project to do and off I set.
Problem number one: I really struggled to get all the required pieces cut out of the 2m length of fabric (which is the amount the suggested on the pattern envelope). Yes, the Minerva fabric is 140cm wide and not 150cm, but wow, I had to get creative with the cutting, and the front of my cowl and the back bodice have seams where I had to join pieces but it doesn’t bother me too much and really isn’t all that apparent. Just be aware there are lots of pieces to cut on the fold for this dress, and the cowl piece is pretty big!
Problem number two: as mentioned above, the first version of this dress was almost perfect in fit and that’s probably one of the reasons I love wearing it and was so desperate to make a second wintery version. The pattern envelope recommends using 2-way stretch jersey fabrics. Well, this is a 2-way stretch fabric and I checked the compatibility of the stretch with the guide on the pattern envelope. All fine. BUT, the waist seam on this dress is WAY too high for me; it is practically an empire line! It is probably sitting a good 3 inches above my natural waist (where I would prefer the waist to sit).
I went back and checked my first version; it appears that is actually a 4-way stretch, and that is why the waist seam on that version hits just about at the right spot. So lessons learned: a) if making this pattern with a 2-way stretch be aware that the waist seam sits HIGH and b) different fabrics, even if both stretch, behave differently.
So, this version is much shorter than I normally wear, and the waist seam is no where near my waist. BUT it probably won’t stop me from wearing this dress cos it is just so comfy and snuggly and warm and perfect for this colder weather. We had a frost this morning and I think it might even snow soon. Brrrr.
Have a great Sunday!