Butterick 5683: DIY quilted zip up jacket

Butterick 5683 quilted jacket

Butterick 5683 quilted jacket

Hellooo Readers!

How are you all? Today I wanted to share with you a quilted jacket I have just finished making using Butterick 5683. Here’s the envelope illustration:

Butterick 5683 envelope illustration

Butterick 5683 envelope illustration

My version:

Butterick 5683: DIY quilted jacket

Butterick 5683: quilted jacket

This pattern is rated as “easy”, and it is. It would also, ordinarily, be fairly easy to fit, with the front and back princess seams. However, this is also an unlined jacket, and using (pre) quilted fabric as I was, there was no way I wanted unfinished seams inside, or even overlocked seams where the inner wadding would have been visible. So, for my third project in a row(!) I used flat fell seams to finish all the inside seams. Here are some inside shots:

Butterick 5683 inside view jacket front

Butterick 5683 inside view jacket front – the darker blue is the facing

Butterick 5683 inside view jacket back

Butterick 5683 inside view jacket back

Butterick 5683 close up of flat fell seam detail

Butterick 5683 close up of flat fell seam detail

Now, in case you can’t tell, I love doing flat fell seams. They are strong, fairly easy to do, hide your raw edges, and when used appropriately, can give a garment a very RTW finish. But in this instance they were very time consuming, and in some places, very difficult to do. I had to remove all the wadding from each of the seam allowances to allow me to turn the one of the seam allowances over the other to sew the flat fell seam. Also, it was very hard (although not impossible) to sew the flat fell finish on the sleeve seam and around the arm holes. My biggest tip if you are going to make this jacket in quilted fabric: leave extra large seam allowances, both for fitting and to allow you to do the flat fell finish without sweating (although I did it with 5/8 inch seam allowance).

I also swapped the sleeves out for two piece sleeves and love the shaping they give. And I added corduroy elbow patches and the collar is also cut from corduroy.

Butterick 5683: quilted jacket

Butterick 5683: quilted jacket

I am ok with the fit of this jacket, although if I were making it again I would probably make the back a bit slimmer fit. Even if you make a muslin for this jacket, unless the muslin is made out of quilted fabric (or at least fabric of an equivalent thickness), judging the fit is quite hard to do.

Butterick 5683: quilted jacket

Butterick 5683: quilted jacket – elbows!

Pattern Review:

Pattern Description:

Loose-fitting, unlined vest/jacket has front separating zipper. A: bias tape neck and armhole finish. B: standing collar, side front pockets and full length sleeves. C: neck, armhole and lower edges have raw edge finish, exposed seams. D: patch pockets, standing collar, sleeves rolled up to form cuffs, raw edge finish and wrong side of fabric will show, exposed front yoke seam. A,B: stitched hems.

I made view B.

Pattern Sizing:

XS – XXL

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. Although I flat fell seamed everything, which did add on a considerable amount of time.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the finished jacket. It looks very RTW. I like the princess seams, front and back. I don’t love the pockets. Partly my mistake; I should have moved them up because I lengthened the jacket by about 3 inches. They are not completely in the wrong place, but I would perhaps prefer them slightly higher. Also, they don’t feel deep enough.

Fabric Used:

A pre-quilted polyester?

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I swapped the provided one piece sleeve for a two piece sleeve, which I highly recommend. It just gives a much better shape and comfortable feel. I lengthened the jacket by about 3 inches. I added cord elbow patches and a also cut the collar from cord. I flat fell seamed all the seams.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I think one of these is probably enough for me.

Yes, I would recommend it. One thing to note: even if you make a muslin for this jacket, unless the muslin is made out of quilted fabric (or at least fabric of an equivalent thickness), judging the fit is quite hard to do. My biggest tip if you are going to make this jacket in quilted fabric: leave extra large seam allowances, both for fitting and to allow you to do the flat fell finish without sweating (although I did it with 5/8 inch seam allowance).

Conclusion:

Quilted jackets have been around for the last couple of years in a big way. If you are looking for a pattern for a casual quilted, unlined jacket, then this pattern is a great one to have on hand.

Butterick 5683: quilted jacket

Butterick 5683: quilted jacket

Have a great weekend everyone! And keep warm!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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About sewmanju

I love to shop, but I also love to sew my own clothes, and am currently on a mission to improve my (fairly basic) dressmaking skills. I confess to going into shops and being outraged at the prices of some (not very well made) garments (is it an age thing?) and think "huh, I could make some thing at least as good as that for less" (is it something to do with coming from the Indian subcontinent?) So this blog details my sewing endeavours, both good and bad....I love to nosey through other people's sewing projects....now everyone can get to see mine.

30 responses to “Butterick 5683: DIY quilted zip up jacket”

  1. Sam says :

    This is great, so much nicer than the pattern illustration would have you believe! The flat felled seams make it look very RTW.

  2. Diana says :

    I agree with Sam — I would have never guessed you could get a jacket this nice from that pattern. Well done … it looks better than Barbour!

  3. grabill says :

    Wow, those inside seam finishes are fantastic!

  4. Angela says :

    Wow — it looks so professional! I have to confess I have yet to sew a flat-felled seam.

  5. Roberta Fahrni says :

    Very nice! Your flat felled seams are beautiful!

  6. Kathy says :

    Ooh! I really like this! Really nicely done. What a great everyday coat.

  7. Stephanie says :

    That looks great. Talk about a pattern I would not have looked twice at based on the cover art but you make me want to run out and buy the pattern and fabric.

  8. Yvonne Bennett says :

    Great job! I rather enjoy the process of flat-felling seams myself, thoug it does seem to take forever. Enjoy your jacket! Looks great on you!

  9. Beth (Sunnygalstudio) says :

    Super cute very ready to wear, you are doing some great jackets thus winter!

  10. Julie Starr says :

    What care you’ve put into all the finishes on this…I am so impressed with this jacket! I wear light jackets quite a bit so I cannot wait to try this pattern. Love, love it!

  11. prttynpnk says :

    This make floored me- so well made! Brava, Madame!

  12. Sew, Jean Margaret says :

    Beautifully finished jacket. Love the flat felled seams.

  13. dkswife says :

    It is a fabulous jacket. Love it.

  14. Val Batty says :

    I’ve got this pattern in my to do at some pile but seeing yours I think it will come nearer to the top. Looks great on you.

  15. Mag says :

    I would love to know how you managed to flat fell seam this garment. It looks great! Did you sew it from the right side? I have just bought double-sided fabric, but I can’t get my head round the way to attempt this so it looks good from both sides. Please do a wee tutorial!

    • sewmanju says :

      Hi Mag, I will see about doing a tutorial…it is just that we are moving house in the next couple of weeks and so I don’t know when I will be able to do it! It really isn’t all that difficult. No, you don’t sew from the right side, but the wrong side. I will try to do a tutorial….no promises on when though! 🙂

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