Vogue 9037: DIY Oversized Collar Cream Wrap Winter Coat
Hello there, from a wet and wild Cumbria!
Winter is still with us, and last weekend I decided to make a coat (as you do!) I had this fabric in my stash that I picked up from my local market and I figured if I didn’t use it then it would sit there until next winter…or longer….so I decided to go for it.
Let me tell you about the fabric first. It was either made by or for Barbour (the company that makes the famous waxed and now quilted jackets). It is perhaps what you might call a technical fabric? I have no idea of the exact composition. It has a nap and is very soft and strokeable. It is also double layered. By that I mean it is two layers of fabric which appear to have been glued together with a layer of foam sandwiched inbetween (so it is quite heavy and very warm). It is also water repellent. Here’s a shot of the fabric so you can see what I mean by the two layers.
In case any one is wondering about the practicalities of keeping a cream coat like this clean without running up extortionate dry cleaning bills, I prewashed this fabric (I tested a sample first!). In fact, I noticed some marks on it before taking these photographs, so it is in the wash as I type.
Now, the pattern. The pattern is Vogue 9037. Here’s the envelope illustration of the version I sewed (view C).
The major difference you will notice is that I chose to level the bottom hem off (remember if you do this, you also have to adjust the facing pattern piece as well). It’s an easy adjustment to make if you are not fond of the shaped hem thing.
This is classed as a very easy vogue pattern and it was very easy. I don’t think there was anything particularly difficult about it and the results, as you can see, are pretty dramatic. If you don’t like the oversized collar thing, this pattern isn’t for you (although there are two other more moderately sized collars included in the envelope).
I didn’t want to line this fabric. It is double faced so I didn’t see the point. That is in part why I went for this pattern. However, you are then left with a dilemma as to how to finish the insides. I chose to make bias binding from a polyester satin and do a hong kong finish on most of the seams. I started doing it on the pockets and side seams and it looked like a dogs dinner. So I ripped that off and tried overlocking those seams. Again. Not nice. This is a thick fabric. In the end I settled for pinking those edges (another thing about this fabric is it doesn’t fray). I am ok with it. (Ignore what else you can see on the dummy: my daughter has claimed this dummy for her own!)
The one thing I wish I had done differently was adjust the collar for turn of cloth. Ah well, It’s not too obvious but a lesson learned for next time.
Loose-fitting, unlined, double-breasted jacket has collar variations, front and back tucks, shaped front hemline and snap closing. C: side pockets. A and C: self belt. Note: No provisions provided for above waist adjustment.
I made a slightly modified view C.
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I think so, although I chose to level the front hem off (remember if you do this you have to also change the facing piece as well).
Were the instructions easy to follow?
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished effect. That is probably alot to do with my fabric (see below), but if you want a dramatic oversized collar, then this does the job.I wish I had adjusted for turn of cloth on the collar.
It was either made by or for Barbour (the company that makes the famous waxed and now quilted jackets). It is perhaps what you might call a technical fabric? I have no idea of the exact composition. It has a nap and is very soft and strokeable. It is also double layered/ double faced. By that I mean it is two layers of fabric which appear to have been glued together with a layer of foam sandwiched inbetween (so it is quite heavy and very warm). There is no wrong side and it does not fray when cut. It is also water repellent.
Because of the above, I wanted a pattern for a coat which was unlined. I chose to finish my jacket with a combination of a hong kong finish and pinking.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I levelled the front hem and facing piece off, and added 1 inch to the lower hems. I shortened the sleeves by about an inch and did a 1 inch full arm adjustment. I hand sewed the hems. I added belt loops and some topstitching to the belt.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
It’s quite distinctive so probably not (maybe one of the other views?). Yes, I recommend.
I feel ab fab when I wear this coat. It feels amazing on and I am sure I will get a little more wear out of this piece before packing it away until next year.
Wherever you are, keep warm and keep sewing. Until soon…