Minoru Jacket Take Two: DIY Khaki Waterproof Hooded Jacket Anorak

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket

Hi Friends,

At the end of 2013 I made my first Sewaholic Minoru Jacket, which you can see and read about here. At the time, I was very pleased with the jacket, and it did get worn quite a bit.

But, I was never fully happy with my fabric selections, and there were parts of the design of the jacket which irked me. Like the fact the collar was too high for me, the hood refused to stay on my head in the wind and the lack of pockets (I added in-seam pockets but they were too shallow to be practical).

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket

It got to the point where I just stopped wearing it, and believe you me, life without a practical raincoat of some kind in this part of this world is, well, not very practical! So, I decided to have another bash at it.

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket

The fabric is described as a water repellent super fine cupro and microfibre soft touch poplin, purchased on ebay (I swatched first). I used a microtex needle to sew it. It was hard to get pins to penetrate through the coated fabric, and I tried to limit pins to seam allowances only. I used my silk organza press cloth throughout. I didn’t use any special thread for the topstitching: I didn’t really want it to stand out too much so used my regular Gutterman polyester.

The jacket is fully lined with an acetate (I think) lining:

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket - inside lining

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket – inside lining

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket - inside lining

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket – inside lining

In terms of the changes I made, I made no changes to the sizing/ fit of the jacket from the previous version. However, I did the following:

  • Shortened the collar height by approx. 1 and 3/4 inches
  • Used a 28 inch (as opposed to suggested 30  inch) zip
  • Omitted the zipped section in the collar to store the hood: I never used this anyway. I sewed the hood directly to the collar/ neck seam of the jacket
  • As a consequence of shortening the collar, I also shortened the length of the plackets by 1 and 3/4 inches
  • Added single welt pockets placed on the diagonal to the front of the jacket. I used this tutorial from Craftsy: it was spot on. I did add anorak snaps to the welts, but they are non functioning (I didn’t add the corresponding back snaps)
  • Added a front zipper guard with snaps. The snaps were a b*tch to put on. I used this tutorial from no big dill, which helped. A little. Tip: buy double the number of snaps you need. You will end up using them all.
  • (Unintentionally) made the hood slightly smaller, and added an elasticated drawstring to keep it on my head
  • Omitted the wide elastic in the back of the jacket and instead added narrow elastic which is adjustable: make as tight or loose as you wish, and I think it’s more flattering (for me)

Lots of pictures:

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket - zipper guard with snaps

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket – zipper guard with snaps

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket - elasticated hood

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket – elasticated hood

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket - back view

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket – back view

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket - back view on dress form

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket – back view on dress form

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket - single welt pocket and adjustable elasticated waist detail

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket – single welt pocket and adjustable elasticated waist detail

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket - elasticated hood detail

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket – elasticated hood detail – BTW, the eyelets were also a b*tch to get in. Tip: interface your fabric in that area and consider adding a square of fabric behind to build your fabric thickness up: too thin a fabric and the eyelets won’t hold

So that’s me sorted for a casual raincoat and I am very pleased with the changes I made and the way this jackets turned out. Added bonus: Khaki is currently very much on trend. I think I am getting addicted to sewing coats of any description!

Have a great weekend everyone!

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket

Khaki Waterproof Minoru Jacket

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About sewmanju

I love to shop, but I also love to sew my own clothes, and am currently on a mission to improve my (fairly basic) dressmaking skills. I confess to going into shops and being outraged at the prices of some (not very well made) garments (is it an age thing?) and think "huh, I could make some thing at least as good as that for less" (is it something to do with coming from the Indian subcontinent?) So this blog details my sewing endeavours, both good and bad....I love to nosey through other people's sewing projects....now everyone can get to see mine.

22 responses to “Minoru Jacket Take Two: DIY Khaki Waterproof Hooded Jacket Anorak”

  1. zibergirl says :

    This is is an awesome jacket! Your attention to detail and your fine craftsmanship is very admirable. I recently put in some grommets on a sweatshirt hoodie, I can relate to the pain in the butt with those!

  2. Thimberlina says :

    Love it….looks so RTW….and them snaps, I’ll have to pin the link for help. The first thing I bough in January after my 2014 was a new waterproof jacket. It’s great but it,drives me mad as the sleeves are too long. I keep thinking that it would fit me properly if I’d made it myself. I might make another albion in waterproof fabric, the minoru scares me at the minute! ✂️😀✂️

    • sewmanju says :

      Thanks. Interesting you think the minoru is harder than the Albion? There are no sleeves to set in with the minoru and no buttonholes…there is the zip, but it’s an easier to insert than most zips (but be warned, those front plackets will stretch!)

      • Thimberlina says :

        I think it’s maybe because the albion isn’t as fitted. Maybe I will pluck up the courage this year, yours and everyone else’s are certainly enough inspiration to get on with it.

  3. Candice says :

    This jacket is amazing! You did an excellent job, and it looks so RTW…Great work as always.

  4. Angela says :

    It looks great – very stylish! I especially love the hood. And all that hardware…..yikes! I have not gotten that brave yet.

  5. Beth (SunnyGal Studio) says :

    that looks fantastic, so professional

  6. Amanda says :

    Wow! You are so talented! Brilliant!

  7. black label says :

    You are on a coat/jacket roll – dont stop! I live vicariously through you when it comes to your 2 Minoru’s. Ive got the pattern….Im just waiting on the right fabric. Huff. But I love both your versions, this one especially because you’ve made it your own with all the little custom details. Be proud!! x

  8. Lynne says :

    Your coat is lovely, and those welt pockets are fab. I’m scratching my head as to why this pattern was drafted without pockets!

  9. Roberta Fahrni says :

    Fabulous!

  10. velosewer says :

    You’ve got it right Manju. There were lots of aspects to this pattern that I had to change to make it work. Your’s work perfectly.
    I love the hardware you’re chosen.

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