Vogue 8998: DIY Floral Silk Fit and Flare Dress
I have finally finished Vogue 8998! This dress was started back in October of last year, when I hoped to complete it in time for my 40th birthday. Alas, I ran out of silk (ordered from a Chinese ebayer) and had to wait a considerable length of time for more to arrive. And then we moved house, and you know, I didn’t have an occassion to finish the dress for etc. But, thanks to my overlocker being in the shop, it forced me to pick this project up and finish it. And I am so glad I did!
There are, I think, 25 individual pieces to sew together to form the outer part of this dress. So multiply that by two for the lining and another 12 pieces or so to cut for the underlining. My outer fabric is silk, I underlined with silk organza, and the lining is silk cotton. All fabrics were purchased from 2 Chinese eBay sellers. I did perform a flame test on the fabrics and I am fairly confident they are the real deal. Note – it is worthwhile labelling each skirt piece so you know which piece is which, and which side is the right/ wrong side!
The hem of the skirt has horsehair braid (or what I could get hold of that is supposed to be horsehair braid), handstitched to the wrong side of the lining of the skirt. The hem of the skirt lining is then sewn to the hem of the skirt (right sides together) and the whole thing turned right side out so that the horsehair braid and all of the seams are enclosed inside the garment.
It does give a lovely shape to the skirt, and makes for a very swishy affair.
You can read about changes I made to the pattern in the review below. One thing I wish I had perhaps done differently is that, it might not be that apparent from these photographs, but I do feel the waistband looks a little wavy. I think I should have used 2 layers of silk organza to stabilise and support the waistband more, but hey, we live and learn. No way am I going to change it now…it would mean taking everything apart. Also, I do feel the sleeves are quite wide…I did try and take them in a bit…if I was making again I would try and do something about them. (Perhaps the fact I underlined the sleeves as well isn’t helping with the “wideness”).
Lined dress has close-fitting, interfaced bodice with princess seams, inset band, skirt variations (horse hair finish on hemline) and back zipper. A: cap sleeves. A, B and C: skirt seam detail. D: collar. D, E and F: gathered skirt with princess seams, and side pockets. F: band and skirt overlays. Separate pattern pieces are included for cup sizes A, B, C, D.
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Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes. I did deviate somewhat.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished shape and fit. And I love the feel and shape of the skirt with the horsehair braid in it. I think the sleeves are a little wide? I took them in by about 0.5 inch front and back, but if I was sewing again I would look at this. Maybe the fact I underlined the sleeves with silk organza is also contributing to them looking a little too wide? I think I would do something about the armholes being too cut in for my liking if making again.
Silk (maybe charmeuse? or lightweight satin?) for the outer; silk organza underlining and silk cotton lining.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I pinched out 0.25 inches either side of the front neckline (removing a total of 0.5 inches) to stop the straps from sliding off my shoulders.
- I shortened the back bodice by 1 inch, tapering to nothing at the sides.
- I shortened all the skirt pieces by 5/8ths of an inch.
- I ended up taking a 1 inch seam allowance at the centre back seam.
- I made the sleeves approx. 1 inch smaller in total.
- I machined the waist band lining to the skirt lining, and didn’t hand stitch as the instructions tell you.
- I installed an invisible zipper.
- I underlined the sleeves.
- I wish I had double underlined the waistband: I think the waistband looks ever so slightly wavy in places and I think it would have benefitted from more support.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, I might sew this again…if I had a special occassion coming up. Yes. I recommend.
This is a perfect pattern to sew for a spring or summer wedding I think. My version, at least, is so light and comfortable and makes me feel very feminine and elegant. Highly recommend.
Come back in a few days and check out the satin jacket I made to go along with this dress. Until then!