Grainline Studio Archer Button Up Shirt: DIY Plaid Shirt with Pearl Snaps – now with FBA!

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Grainline Studio Archer Shirt

Hi Friends,

I think this is my 7th time of making this pattern. Quite a record for me. This is my third plaid version. I have also made versions in denim, linen and cotton shirting and voile. BUT this version is an new and (mainly) improved version.

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Grainline Studio Archer Shirt

Why start messing around with a pattern on the 7th time of making you ask? Well, it started when I was featured in one of the “Same Pattern, Different Bodies” posts, about the Archer Shirt, on the Curvy Sewing Collective. (If you read through the comments section on that post, you will see that I did get rather irritated. Oh dear!) Anyway, moving on, one of the commentators said that she felt that all the shirts that were featured basically needed an FBA. I have never felt like I needed to do an FBA on the Archer shirt, but here’s the thing, when you sew a shirt in plaid then the checks can be very telling when it comes to the fit. Here are the first two versions of this shirt, sewn in plaid, without the FBA:

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Jalie Eleonore Pull on Jeans: DIY Mustard Jeggings worn with Grainline Archer Shirt

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Plaid Flannel Archer Button Up Shirt

I don’t think the checks look too bad over the bust, but I decided that maybe I could do with just a small 0.5 inch FBA. So that is what I did, using the method described by Paprika Patterns (how to do a FBA on a dartless shirt). I eliminated the dart, and redrafted the side seam as I decided I did not want a bust dart interfering with any futher plaid versions of this pattern I might make.

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Grainline Studio Archer Shirt

Yes, I think the checks now lie just that tiny bit more horizontal. So FBA successfully completed.

Other changes I also made:

  • I finally got round to adding 0.25 inches to the armholes, sleeves and side seams to facilitate flat fell finishing all those seams.
  • I don’t mind using the continous lapped placket method for some shirts – in fact for light weight fabrics I probably prefer that method – but for more weightier fabrics I think a tower placket is more appropriate. So that’s what I did on this shirt, using this tutorial from Off The Cuff – excellent tutorial and surprisingly easy to do.

 

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Grainline Studio Archer Shirt – tower placket detail

Now let’s talk about what is not so good: the comically large cuffs. Readers, I am completely baffled as to why the cuffs are as large as they are. I didn’t add anything to the cuff seam allowances, I did the pleats as usual, and the only thing I can think of is that either the plackets have somehow made them bigger, or that this fabric has just somehow grown?! I am stumped. Another version will probably have to be made to investigate. Sigh.

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Grainline Studio Archer Shirt

This is my first time using pearl snaps, and I basically followed exactly what VeryKerryBerry says to do in this tutorial, including buying the pliers and a set of Prym jersey snaps so that I would have the plastic attachments. Conclusion: using the Prym snaps gave the best results (rather than the generic snaps), and using the pliers with the plastic attachments gave pretty much fool proof results.

I love how cosy this version of this shirt is, and let’s face it, spring, at least in this corner of the world, is still a way off. If I can resolve the cuff issue this will continue to be a firm favourite.

Happy sewing!

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Grainline Studio Archer Shirt

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About sewmanju

I love to shop, but I also love to sew my own clothes, and am currently on a mission to improve my (fairly basic) dressmaking skills. I confess to going into shops and being outraged at the prices of some (not very well made) garments (is it an age thing?) and think "huh, I could make some thing at least as good as that for less" (is it something to do with coming from the Indian subcontinent?) So this blog details my sewing endeavours, both good and bad....I love to nosey through other people's sewing projects....now everyone can get to see mine.

16 responses to “Grainline Studio Archer Button Up Shirt: DIY Plaid Shirt with Pearl Snaps – now with FBA!”

  1. Dalia says :

    Hm, while I don’t find the cuffs comically large, they are large. Maybe a problem in grading. They seem large in the other versions too!
    Can I ask where you got the Pearl Snaps from? I have been looking for some with European shipping costs for a while now.
    (BTW, I wouldn’t let myself get irritated by entitled commenters. I think I can eyeball if someone has the same bodytype as me, no specific measurements needed. I wouldn’t give them either. I mean, my mean-girl coworkers of the future might stumble across that…)

  2. amcclure2014 says :

    I’ve just read the CSC post. Mmm. I’ve been happy with your reviews and contributions. I don’t need to know particular sizes but like to know if a pattern is vaguely true to size, though that’s a matter of personal preference but clearly there is an issue in this one with sleeve width. The images of Mary’s shirts show clear need for an FBA or a bigger one (and I don’t need her size for that) I didn’t think yours obviously called out for that.
    I’m making an FBA on the Grainline Morris blazer anf have ended up with a dart which wasn’t there to start with, following their instructions. I looked at the tutorial you linked but don’t think I can get rid of the side dart. Pity.

    • sewmanju says :

      For me Anne, doing an FBA is pretty standard on most things I make, so I would rather have the dart there than not. In fact, the next jacket I am making I have had to do an FBA which has added in a side dart – yeah I know it doesn’t maybe look as neat and clean, but I feel it is worth it to get the fit correct.

      • amcclure2014 says :

        Yes, the FBA I’ve done has added a dart. I wanted a striped version which is why I was concerned about the dart but, like you, feel the fit is more important. Anne

  3. Lyndle says :

    Great shirt! When I saw your shirt on instagram I was surprised you’d done an fba – your other shirts looked fine to my obviously not very refined eye! So kudos for adding it. I really like these shirts on you!

  4. Amanda S. says :

    Very nice! I’ve used pearl snaps before but it’s been years. They add that little something extra I always get excited about.

  5. Miriam O says :

    It is such a pleasure to see plaids done right. You are a master!

  6. Meg says :

    This looks fabulous!! The FBA definitely straightens out the plaid, but frankly, the other shirts look great, too! Most people would never notice!

  7. Kay says :

    Manju, that shirt looks fabulous!!!

    Mind if I give you a suggestion? I personally feel you can go down a size and then do a bigger FBA. The shoulder seam should be just 1/4 away from your natural shoulder and to me, yours seem more than that. This might also take care of the slant drag lines than mrs.mole mentioned in her post.

    I have seen Angela Wolf, Kenneth King and many other great teachers raise the shoulders and see what a day/night difference it is. Shoulders are the best starting point for good fit. You might want to fit there first and then add fba and grade in/out at waist, hips etc based on your measurements.

    I enjoy all of your makes and your joyful enthusiasm. That suggestion had been in my mind for years now and I figure sharing that here might be taken in the same positive spirit it is shared.

    • sewmanju says :

      Thanks Kay, and thanks for your suggestion. I agree that the shoulders on this particular shirt are perhaps not where a more fitted style should be, but I think this style is supposed to be oversized and slouchy so for now I think I will leave them be. Not offended at all by your suggestion. Thanks for your comment.

  8. Tomasa says :

    This shirt looks great on you – I love this version of the Archer! I have made this shirt twice and have added an FBA each time despite the shirt being made of a check plaid type of fabric. I make sure the plaids match at the side from the bottom of the hem to above the waistline close to where the dart will be. My arm being down most of the time hides the mismatch caused by the dart.

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