Pauline Alice Tello Jacket: DIY Utility Military Khaki Jacket with Patches
Hello again Friends,
Today I wanted to share a jacket I made using one of Pauline Alice’s latest patterns: the Tello jacket. I tested this pattern for Pauline, under no obligation, and liked it enough to make a final version up. Pauline did send me a final copy of the pattern, together with a copy of the new Botanic trousers (BTW, love the look of those!) but all my opinions are my own.
Pauline describes the Tello jacket as “a classic utility jacket, unlined and with many pockets. It features a topstitched collar, one-piece sleeves with dart, one vertical zipped chest pocket with lined interior and one patch pocket, large hip pockets and six button closures”.
As you can see from my version, I omitted the chest pockets, did a FBA which brought in a bust dart, and added iron-on military inspired patches to add a bit of interest (please don’t anyone comment on the authenticity of my patch selection! I just went for ones that would look good, lol). My fabric is a lightly brushed cotton twill trousering from Croft Mill fabrics. It is rather heavy weight but it’s softening down with wear. I could see this jacket made up in so many different fabrics which would all give unique looks: denim, cord, linen or even a printed fabric.
As ever with Pauline’s patterns she really thinks of interesting details which elevate even her basic patterns to something special. Here I have included a close up of the topstitched elbow dart, and the angled patch pocket at the hips which extend back over the side seam.
For the inside finish I chose to use a combination of a bound finish (around the facings/ yoke and centre back seam), and an overlocked finish. This is something I see a lot in RTW and I am happy enough with the finish on this style of jacket.
Here is a list of modifications I made:
- Omitted breast pockets
- 1 inch FBA which brought in a bust dart
- Graded out at hips at front and back side seams and also added a little to the lower part of the centre back seam. (Pauline tells me the final pattern has had the hip circumference increased slightly. Note, I do fall slightly outside Pauline’s hip measurements)
- Widened hip patch pockets by 1.5 inches
- 1 inch sway back adjustment with removed length added back to hem
- 1 inch full arm adjustment
- Shortened sleeve by 1 inch
- Lowered armholes by 1 inch (Pauline tells me armhole depth has been increased in the final pattern)
- Lengthened jacket by 1.5 inches
Things I love about this jacket
- I don’t have a style like this in my wardrobe
- I think it is very on-trend, especially in the khaki colour, and I feel cool wearing it
- It is only 27 pages long and has only 9 pieces – not too many for a jacket
- I see so many PDF patterns now retailing for 12 euros/ USD plus: I think the price is so reasonable! (BTW, this jacket is also available in paper format)
Things you should watch out for
- Depending on your fabric it might be worth considering added at least a half lining. I do find it a little hard to get this jacket on and off easily. But it’s totally not going to stop me wearing it!
- Also, the pattern does not call for interfacing at all (intentional). I chose to interface my facings, yoke and collar.
At least over this past weekend and today it has been beautiful blue skies and warmer. I don’t know if that is set to last, but I have already been wearing this jacket and I just love it. Check out Pauline’s shop for some offers on her newest range of 3 patterns, which include this one.
See you all soon and thanks so much to everyone who has voted for me so far in the Dressmaker of the year contest.