McCalls 8034 #CoraMcCalls: DIY Red Jacquard Square Neck Fitted Dress

McCalls 8034 in jacquard.

Hi Everyone,

It was Kezia’s 13th birthday this week and after ordering a dress from Zara which just didn’t fit like she wanted it to, I offered to make her one. I made McCalls 8034 (#CoraMcCalls) in a beautiful red jacquard (ex. River Island) from Rainbow Fabrics. The colour is stunning and it washed, pressed and sewed beautifully.

McCalls 8034 in jacquard.

McCalls 8034 in jacquard.

Aside from grading between sizes, I made minimal alterations to the pattern (see notes below). There is boning sewn into the bust and side seams (I used some cotton covered featherlite stuff I had in stash) and the body of the dress is fully lined. All the seams means fitting is easy and small pieces means you can be economical when cutting out fabric. Both Kezia and I were thrilled with the finished garment.

McCalls 8034 in jacquard.

It turns out I could have got away with ordering just two metres of fabric, but I had ordered three metres. So I managed to also cut and sew a bonus pair of lounge wear bottoms from the remaining fabric. I used the free Peppermint Magazine lounge wear pattern which I have made for Kezia before (see here). I didn’t make any alterations from the first pair I made.

Peppermint magazine loungewear bottoms by Common Stitch

Peppermint magazine loungewear bottoms by Common Stitch

Fitting Notes

• I made view B
• I cut a size 6 through the bust and sleeves, grading to a size 12 at the waist and a size 14 at the hips
• I added 0.25 inches to the seams over the bust and into the top of the front midriff
• I did a 0.5 inch sway back adjustment, and added the removed length back at the hem
• I shortened the dress by 3.25 inches
• I added 0.25 inches to the side seams at the hips
• I replaced the ties at the sleeve openings with elastic
• I used my machines blind hem foot to hem – first time ever using it!
• I did make my own (self fabric) bias binding to form the casing at the top of the sleeves. If I was going to make this again I would narrow that binding down slightly

Kezia had an indulgent birthday celebrating entering her teenage years 🙂 Next big birthday…sweet 16….lol.

Here’s a snap of me and my baby. I am out of order of sharing my makes but the weather just hasn’t let me photograph other makes I have made for myself. Hopefully back soon with those.

McCalls 8034 in jacquard. I’m wearing my Tilly and the Buttons Lyra dress.

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Peppermint Magazine Ruffle Sleeve Top and True Bias Ogden Cami – DIY Embroidered Tulle Dress with Slip

Peppermint Magazine Ruffle Sleeve Blouse bodice (modified) with added gathered skirt in embroidered tulle. Worn with silk blend True Bias Ogden Cami lengthened to dress length.

Hi Everyone,

Lockdown sewing continues, and although the restrictions in our part of the world are being lifted somewhat, life has still not returned to normal. I have had this dress idea for Kezia (11) for some time now, and as I am trying not to sew too many fancy things for myself, why not fill my desire to sew pretty things by making something for my only child, hmm?

Peppermint Magazine Ruffle Sleeve Blouse bodice (modified) with added gathered skirt in embroidered tulle. Worn with silk blend True Bias Ogden Cami lengthened to dress length.

The embroidered tulle was purchased quite some time ago from one of my favourite eBay sellers, The Textile Centre. It was a 2 metre piece, which was enough to cut this dress. I essentially treated the fabric as a directional border print, and cut the bottom of the skirt and the front bodice at the selvedge were the embroidery was more predominant, and placed the rest of the pieces towards the middle of the fabric where the embroidery was less. Overall, I am happy with the placement. You will notice that I have left the edges raw and I used a three thread overlock finish on the seams. French seams would have been pretty for sure, but I don’t have the patience to do those for a growing child 🙂

Peppermint Magazine Ruffle Sleeve Blouse bodice (modified) with added gathered skirt in embroidered tulle. Worn with silk blend True Bias Ogden Cami lengthened to dress length.

The bodice of the dress is made using Peppermint Magazine’s ruffle sleeve top, which I have made once before for myself (see here). I modified the bodice as follows:

• I cut a size A
• I raised the dart by 1.5 inches
• I cut the pattern off at the waist
• I changed the front neckline from a V to a round neck
• I added a centre back seam to the back piece
• I omitted the half lining and finished the neckline with bias binding
• I took a wedge out from the centre back (1″), tapering to 0.5″ at the side seams and to nothing at the front bodice
• I did a simple turn and stitch in the back to create a slit opening, closed with a thread loop and button. The fit is easy enough to pull the dress on and off

Peppermint Magazine Ruffle Sleeve Blouse bodice (modified) with added gathered skirt in embroidered tulle. Worn with silk blend True Bias Ogden Cami lengthened to dress length.

The skirt is a simple rectangle, gathered, and attached at the waist.

Peppermint Magazine Ruffle Sleeve Blouse bodice (modified) with added gathered skirt in embroidered tulle.

Peppermint Magazine Ruffle Sleeve Blouse bodice (modified) with added gathered skirt in embroidered tulle. Worn with silk blend True Bias Ogden Cami lengthened to dress length.

Peppermint Magazine Ruffle Sleeve Blouse bodice (modified) with added gathered skirt in embroidered tulle. Worn with silk blend True Bias Ogden Cami lengthened to dress length.

For some reason, that little red button makes me happy 🙂 Even though with all that hair no one will probably ever see it!

Peppermint Magazine Ruffle Sleeve Blouse bodice (modified) with added gathered skirt in embroidered tulle. Worn with silk blend True Bias Ogden Cami lengthened to dress length.

The slip dress that you can just about make out underneath is the True Bias Ogden Cami, which I have blogged about for myself (see here), and which I have made for Kezia before (but not blogged). From memory, I think this is the smallest adult size with no real modifications. For the slip dress I simply added 27 cm of length to the cami at the lengthen/ shorten lines.

Peppermint Magazine Ruffle Sleeve Blouse bodice (modified) with added gathered skirt in embroidered tulle. Worn with silk blend True Bias Ogden Cami lengthened to dress length.

The fabric for the slip is a silk/ acetate blend that I found on Fabworks. I did sample first and got lucky with the colour match. 1 metre of fabric was just enough to make this work!

I am so happy with how this turned out. Kezia also loves it. Now we just need some occasion for her to wear it!

Stay safe.

Peppermint Magazine Ruffle Sleeve Blouse bodice (modified) with added gathered skirt in embroidered tulle. Worn with silk blend True Bias Ogden Cami lengthened to dress length.

Lockdown Loungewear for Mum and Mini-Me

Mummy-and-me matching lounge outfits.

Readers,

We are about to enter week 6 of Lockdown life here in the UK. Never has the phrase “unprecedented times” been used so much, and that applies to my sewing! I never thought I would find myself sewing loungewear, but that is exactly what I have sewn. And not just for myself, but for my 11 year old daughter too.

Simplicity 8529 sweatshirt worn with Simplicity 1187 jogger bottoms

Let me start at the beginning. After making my animal print sweatshirt with star motif I decided I wanted to extend my casual wardrobe a little further and ordered some of this looped back organic cotton sweatshirt fabric from Fabworks in the colour way sand. I proceeded to make myself a sweatshirt based on Simplicity 8982, but modified to have puffed sleeves.

Simplicity 8982 sweatshirt (modified) worn with Simplicity 1187 jogger bottoms

Once lockdown started in earnest, I decided I would make a couple of pairs of jogger bottoms to wear and ordered some more of the same fabric (one in the dove grey colourway), at which point my daughter decided she also wanted a matching loungewear set in the sand colour.

Simplicity 8529 sweatshirt worn with Simplicity 1187 jogger bottoms

Simplicity 8982 sweatshirt (modified) worn with Simplicity 1187 jogger bottoms

Now I have a true confession to make. Long time readers will know how much I love Fabworks fabrics. I have used many different types over the years. However, at least with this sand coloured fabric, the seams don’t seem to be holding up that well. Initially I sewed my sweatshirt up mainly on my overlocker, but the fabric seemed to be straining at the seams – not particularly in tight fitting areas. For the joggers, I double stitched the seams on my machine and then finished the seams on my overlocker (4 thread), and the same thing seems to be happening. I really don’t know why. Nothing has ripped, but these outfits have been on heavy rotation since being made and I will be interested to see how long they last (especially my daughters with all the gymnastic moves that she does!) I wanted to be honest about my experience with this fabric, and would love to hear from anyone else who makes something with it! So far I haven’t worn the grey joggers that much, but haven’t noticed the same thing happening. Yet!

Simplicity 8529 sweatshirt worn with Simplicity 1187 jogger bottoms

Simplicity 8982 sweatshirt (modified) worn with Simplicity 1187 jogger bottoms

I am going to add some brief notes down below on what patterns I used and what modifications I made. I think I actually prefer the grey with the animal print sweatshirt, just because I did a bit of a full thigh adjustment on the grey version so I think they fit a tad better.

McCalls 7688 sweatshirt worn with Simplicity 1187 jogger bottoms

McCalls 7688 sweatshirt worn with Simplicity 1187 jogger bottoms

Patterns Used/ Fitting Notes for Me

• Joggers were made using Simplicity 1187, View C
• I cut a size XL, tapering to a size XS at the ankle, but cut the length at the size M line
• I cut a size XS for the ankle cuff and still took about 1 inch further out of the cuff width
• I omitted the waistband and directly overlocked my 1″ wide elastic to the top of the joggers, folding down and stitching in place
• I eliminated the fly extension
• 0.5 inch full bum adjustment (plus added 0.25 inch to the back rise at the top)
• 0.5 inch full tummy adjustment
• Shortened length by 0.5 inches
• Added in seam pockets
• For the grey pair only; I did a 0.5 inch full inner thigh adjustment on the front piece
• Sweatshirt was made using Simplicity 8982, view B
• See previous post for fit details.
• In addition to the previous fit adjustments, on this version I did a 1 inch full arm adjustment
• I shortened the sleeve by 2 inches
• I slashed and spread the sleeve cap into 6 sections, taking it down to 1 inch from the bottom of the sleeve and spread the sections 2.5 cm apart. I also added 2 cm to the height of the cap. In retrospect I wish I had added a bit more height
• I shortened the neck band by 1 inch
• I added hem bands
• I added 4 cm extra width to the back side seams from under the arm and 3 cm to the front

Patterns Used/ Fitting Notes for Kezia

• Joggers were made using Simplicity 1187, View C
• Straight size XS with 0.5 added to back rise at top
• Attached elastic same way as described for me, and eliminated fly
• Made ankle cuff 1 inch smaller than XS size
• Sweatshirt was made using Simplicity 8529, view D
• Omitted lower band and left a raw finish for the hem
• Added applique star to front (see here for details of how I did mine)

How about you? Has lockdown got you sewing things you wouldn’t normally? Whether you are sewing to keep your mind occupied, or whether you are sewing to support our key workers making scrubs or even face masks I hope you are keeping safe and well.

Until soon.

McCalls 7688 sweatshirt worn with Simplicity 1187 jogger bottoms

Kwik Sew K4111 and Burdastyle 06/2016 #140: DIY Green Floral Crepe Tulip Skirt Dress and Girls Tie Front Blouse

Kwik Sew K4111 Floral Crepe Tulip Skirt Dress

Friends!

This dress was born out of Instagram: I saw the fabric on Fabricgodmother’s feed, and I couldnt resist the super saturated colour (hard to capture the true colour in these photographs) or the floral print, so I ordered 3 metres a couple of weeks back. This was one of those rare occassions when, as soon as the fabric arrived, I was determined to sew something from it. I had Kwik Sew K4111 in my stash and I thought the crepe paired with the tulip skirt and feminine bodice would work well together. Also, I am no horticultural expert, but aren’t they tulips on the fabric? Seemed like a match made in heaven to me.

Kwik Sew K4111 Floral Crepe Tulip Skirt Dress

I am super pleased with the fit I got on this dress, which I tissue fitted. I love the tulip skirt. It is very secure, with the underlap being sewn into the side seam, so even if the front were to inadvertently blow up, you won’t be showing anything you shouldn’t. Also, I LOVE the facings and the instructions which showed you how to get a completely clean, machine finish all around the armholes. Magic! Be bored with several pictures just of the inside:

Kwik Sew K4111 Floral Crepe Tulip Skirt Dress – back facing (don’t ask me why I bought a purple zipper! It’s a good thing I am pretty good at sewing a concealed zipper in, because you can’t tell from the outside)

Kwik Sew K4111 Floral Crepe Tulip Skirt Dress – front facing

Kwik Sew K4111 Floral Crepe Tulip Skirt Dress – clean finish armhole

Kwik Sew K4111 Floral Crepe Tulip Skirt Dress

I just love the finished dress, even if I am sad that the summer seems all but over for us and so I don’t know how much opportunity I will have to wear this until next year.

Kwik Sew K4111 Floral Crepe Tulip Skirt Dress

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Dresses have bodice with partial gathers at waist seam, scoop neckline, back zipper, overlapping front tulip skirts with pleats, back darts and stitched hems. Neckline and armholes are finished with facings. Self-fabric belt. A: Sleeveless with neckline notch and topstitching at armhole. B: Self-faced cap sleeves.

I made view B.

Pattern Sizing:<

XS – XL

I cut a size L through the shoulders and  bust and graded out over the waist and hips.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. I particularly love the facings and the clean (machine) finish you achieve around the armholes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the finished dress. I love the tulip skirt – very feminine – and also very secure, with the underlap portion sewn into the side seam of the dress. As mentioned above, love the finish inside with the facings. Love the overall drafting. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used:

Polyester crepe.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

• Graded out slightly (total 3 inches) over the hips.
• 1 inch FBA, rotating the formed dart into the waist for extra gathers there.
• 5/8ths inch full bottom adjustment on the back skirt piece.
• Lengthened skirt 1.5/8ths inch.
• Used an invisible zipper.
• Staystitched neckline – no mention of this in the instructions.
• I think I did a sway back adjustment of approx. 1 inch?

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I might sew again, maybe? I highly recommend.

Conclusion:

I think this dress is super cute and feminine. Sometimes that’s nice 🙂

Kwik Sew K4111 Floral Crepe Tulip Skirt Dress

Now, there was a little bit of fabric left over so I thought, seeing as I had the machine threaded up etc, why not whizz up a little top for Kezia?

Burda Style 06/2016 #140 girls tie front blouse

I used Burdastyle 06/2016#140 and there isn’t a great deal to say about it. It’s a simple, boxy top with cut on sleeves and incorporates a tie front. Of course the instructions were confusing and I think they intended for you to finish those front ties using a facing, but I could not be bothered to figure it out so I just did a narrow hem around the ties. It’s not my finest sewing but it works, and it will probably survive more washes than the time Kezia will fit into this top, the rate at which she is growing! Just for reference, this top was cut at the 140 cm height size.

Burda Style 06/2016 #140 girls tie front blouse

Burda Style 06/2016 #140 girls tie front blouse

Have a great week everyone!

Until soon.

 

 

 

New Look 6388: DIY Girls Cotton Lawn Summer Dress

New Look 6388

Hi Friends,

A quick review today of a dress I made for Kezia (who is currently a tall 8 year old approx. 140+ cm height) using New Look 6388. This is a basic dress pattern but one which is limited only by your imagination. I just wanted to make a simple, lightweight summer dress for Kezia, and she picked out this soft printed cotton lawn. The bodice is lined with poly cotton.

New Look 6388

One thing to watch out for is that the “waistband” is not actually a waistband (even though I have sewn it as one, joining the bodice to the skirt). The instructions actually have you sew the “waistband” on top of the bodice, rather like an emblishment, rather than a true waistband. Other than that, this is a pretty straight forward sew.

New Look 6388

New Look 6388

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

This party dress for Girls features high low skirt with overlay or sleeveless dress with contrast waistband and lower band, both with bow in back, and short sleeve dress with ribbon or sleeveless dress with shoulder bows.

I made view C.

Pattern Sizing:

8 – 16

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes. The only thing to be aware of is that the “waistband” is not actually a waistband (even though I have sewn it as one, joining the bodice to the skirt). The instructions actually have you sew the “waistband” on top of the bodice, rather like an emblishment, rather than a true waistband.

I cut 2 waistbands, one from the lining fabric and one from the outer fashion fabric which was interfaced, and used the waistband to join the bodice to the skirt.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the finished garment. It is a simple pattern but one which can easily be adapted to all kinds of fabric and for all occasions. I am not sure if the fabric requirements are correct: I used a polycotton to line the bodice but I think I would have struggled to self line the bodice using the suggested fabric requirements.

Fabric Used:

Cotton lawn outer with polycotton lining for bodice.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

• My daughter is a tall (140cm+) 8 year old. I cut a size 10 through the bust and shoulders, grading out to a size 12 at the waist.
• I shortened the bust dart by 1″.
• I cut the skirt at the size 10 length.
• See above for my comments on the “waistband” and how I treated it.
• I ended up letting the side seams out by about 0.25 inches to gain a further 1 inch all round.
• Used an invisible zip.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I did the sensible thing and traced this pattern so yes, I could see myself making this again. Yes, I recommend.

Conclusion:

Great basic girls dress pattern to have in the stash. Lots of potential with this one.

I will leave you with some pictures of my beautiful, confident girl 🙂 have a great week everyone.

New Look 6388

New Look 6388

 

 

Dressmaker of the Year Competition – please vote for me!

Dear Friends,

I have some exciting news and a favour to ask of you.

Remeber this coat I made for Kezia?

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat

I entered it into The Dressmaker of the Year Competition, and it has been shortlisted in two categories: the childrens wear category (which will be decided by the judges), and also in the Readers Choice category – which is where you come in. I would be so grateful if you could take a moment to click on this link and go vote for me!

Voting is open until 25th April and if you do vote you will automatically be entered into a prize draw to win a bundle of 11 sewing books and subscription to Sew or Make it Today magazine – that’s a prize worth over £230.

It’s a great honour to have been shortlisted and tomorrow I have to parcel the coat off and send it off to be judged! Exciting.

Until soon. I mean, how could you resist that little face? 🙂

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat

My Sewing in 2016: a look back and some things you might have missed

Hi Friends,

Hope you all had a wonderful Christmas and are looking forward to the New Year.

I actually still have 2 unblogged items that I completed this year but I am not going to rush into blogging those before the year end. Instead, I wanted to take the opportunity to reflect on the items I have made this year and also share some items that those of you who are not on Instagram might have missed (because I felt they were not worthy of a blog post of their own).

It’s been another great year of sewing for me. I feel like my skills are improving and I am getting more practised at refining the fit of garments – that’s not to say I always get it right – because I don’t! I think I am also more confident in my own sense of style and picking patterns that I think might work on my body shape etc. So all in all, 2016 was a successful year for me.

Here is the complete breakdown (not including the two unblogged items) with some pictures of things that have appeared on the blog before, as well as some pictures of items I shared on my Instagram account.

• 4 coats – including one for Kezia. These are probably my most favourite items of all the things I have sewn. I have to wear a coat of some kind most days for at least 9 – 10 months of the year and reaching for these items makes me happy. I really enjoy coat making.

• 2 blazers – both huge learning curves for me. One was a hand tailored wool blazer and one was a wool ponte blazer constructed using fusible interfacings.
• 2 jackets – one made from Linton tweed and fully lined (that was worn lots when travelling on planes in America) and one unlined kimono style.
• 3 pairs of pull on jeans made using the Jalie Elenore pattern (my red pair got worn loads – see below for picture. My black pair are in the donate pile – fabric didn’t have enough stretch to make them comfortable).
• 3 pairs of pants made using Simplicity 1167 – this pattern has become my go to pants pattern – for now. So proud of myself for making pants that fit ME!

Simplicity 1167 pants

• 2 pairs of culotte style trousers.
• 2 skirts, both made using Simplicity 8019. I made a version in suede leather and then this (unblogged) denim version, which has gotten a fair amount of wear.

Simplicity 8019 denim button front skirt worn with plaid Grainline Archer shirt

• 1 pair of workout leggings
• 5 shirts – including one made for Philip’s big birthday and a floral Grainline Archer made for myself from some soft cotton voile type fabric I purchased a few years ago in Paris that I LOVE wearing.

McCalls 6613 striped shirt

McCalls 6613 striped shirt

Grainline Archer floral shirt worn with Jalie Eleonore pull on jeans

• 11 further tops/ blouses/ workout top, including this modified McCalls 6886 breton style top. Sadly this has also just gone into the donate pile on account of the fabric not washing very well. It’s a shame as I LOVE the first breton top I made using this pattern and it still gets regularly worn (in a black and white stripe). Need to find the perfect fabric to make more!

McCalls 6886 modified into colour block yoke breton style top

• 2 cardigans
• 4 shirt dresses

• 6 further dresses – one of which was a wadder. The wadder was  my attempt at turning the True Bias Sutton blouse into a dress with an elasticated waist. I made the top part way too blousey and I ended  up chopping the dress apart before giving up on it completely.

True Bias Sutton Dress – wadder!

• A gymnastics outfit for Kezia

Erbsenprinzessin leotard – fabric purchased from Spandex house, NYC

Erbsenprinzessin leotard (modified) and e+m leggings (modified to shorts)

• 2 pairs of cotton pyjamas – made using Simplicity 2317. These have been washed and worn and washed and worn. I hope to make more (and more luxurious) versions next year.

Two versions of OOP Simplicity 2317

• 2 refashions: a blouse of mine which I no longer wanted refashioned into a top for Kezia and a denim peplum jacket made from 2 pairs of old jeans.

Refashioned top into a top for kezia

• 1 baby dress and pantaloons

Phew! Quite the list. I am proud and happy of all I have achieved this year 🙂

What does 2017 hold? I am not one to tie myself down with challenges/ resolutions or even firm plans. I like to run wild and free, haha. But….

• More coats: a waterproof Kelly anorak, a trench coat of some kind and another blazer (still need to find my perfect one in terms of fit and style!)
• Workout tops in the supplex I purchased in America this year
• More pants! Maybe another pattern?
• Feel like I need some new tops to freshen my wardrobe up.

Not going to think beyond that. I like to draw up a more specific list up about 3 or 4 times a year and edit as I go along.

So all that remains is for me to say a huge THANK YOU to all of my followers and to all of you who read my blog and comment. It’s great to be part of this community and also it was great to meet some of you in real life and make new friends. Actually, that’s something I hope I get more chance to do next year. I wish all of you health, happiness, peace and prosperity for the new year. Happy and fruitful sewing!

 

 

 

Vogue 9043: DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat

Hello Readers,

Today I am sharing a coat that I made for my daughter, Kezia, who will be 8 in January, using Vogue 9043.The fabric for the coat was purchased from (local to me) Linton Tweeds. I have mentioned this before, in the Linton Tweed show room they have pre-cut 1 metre skirt lengths that they sell off at considerably less than the price from the roll. So this coat cost £20 for the Linton Tweed (2 skirt lengths), as opposed to the £52 – £60 it would have cost if I had bought two metres in a continuous length off the roll.

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat

I don’t know what the composition of the fabric is (they don’t seem to label the composition of the fabrics in the show room), and is definitely a mix of fibres, including something very…sparkly, which is hard to capture in the photographs. For a Linton Tweed this fabric seemed fairly densely woven so I decided not to block fuse or underline the fabric, but chose just to interface the upper back (in lieu of a back stay) and all the hems. I also knew there was a fair chance that Kezia would complain about the scratchiness of the fabric next to her skin, so I chose to cut the upper collar and inner collar band from a cotton velvet.

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat – internal fusible interfacing at upper back and along all hems

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat – buttons/ velvet collar detail

Let’s talk about the pattern. This is a wonderful pattern with some fantastic details. It was a pleasure to sew. As ever, there is a full review below, but I wanted to point out the beautiful flared shape at the back of the coat, the two piece sleeves, the two piece, bias cut undercollar and the pockets which are incorporated into the front curved seams. Also – and this is something new to me – the pattern instructions have you make sleeve heads from gathered net to support the shape at the top of the sleeves. A brilliant little detail to use somewhere else when the need arises.

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat – back view

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat – pocket detail

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat – coat lining

I have decided to enter this coat into the Sewing Pattern Review Outer Wear Contest, so head over to look at the other entries and cast your vote.

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Lined, fitted jacket or peacoat (slightly flared) has collar variations, princess seams, side-front pockets and long sleeves with gathered sleeve head. A, C: Peter pan collar and single-breasted. B: Contrast pointed collar and double-breasted. C: Purchased trim.

I made view B
Pattern Sizing:
Size 2 – 8.

I cut a straight size 8.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, I think so….except my sleeves don’t seem to have any gathers. Don’t know why this is: perhaps due to my fabric?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes:

• LOVE the flared shape at the back of the coat.
• Love the two piece sleeves
• Love the way the pockets are incorporated into the curved front seams.
• Love the two piece, bias cut under collar

Dislikes:

• Some of the notches (particularly on the sleeves) don’t seem to match, although it didn’t make any difference to the finished coat.
• Whilst the under collar does seem to take in to account the turn of cloth, the collar band doesn’t: I removed 0.25 inch from the collar band.

Fabric Used:
The fabric for the coat was purchased from (local to me) Linton Tweeds. In the Linton Tweed show room they have pre-cut 1 metre skirt lengths that they sell off at considerably less than the price from the roll. So this coat cost £20 for the Linton Tweed (2 skirt lengths), as opposed to the £52 – £60 it would have cost if I had bought two metres in a continuous length off the roll. The exact fabric composition is unknown and comprises mixed fibres.

The coat is fully lined in a polyester (?) lining from my stash.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
The fact I was working with two 1 metre lengths was challenging in terms of pattern layout but I did it without having to do any piecing. I do wish I had lengthened the sleeves slightly, but I have to live with that.

For a Linton Tweed this fabric seemed fairly densely woven so I decided not to block fuse or underline the fabric, but chose just to interface the upper back (in lieu of a back stay) and all the hems and also the inner edge of the front where you have to clip to form the pocket.

I knew there was a fair chance that my daughter would complain about the scratchiness of the fabric next to her skin, so I chose to cut the upper collar and inner collar band from a cotton velvet.

I shaped with shoulder seam using twill tape.

I added a small back pleat to the lining.

I bagged the lining out by machine.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I don’t know if I will sew this again, but I highly recommend if you are looking for a beautifully drafted classic little girls coat.
Conclusion:

My daughter loves her new coat and that makes me happy. This was a pleasurable sewing experience and I know I am biased, but I think she looks like a little princess wearing it. Of course, if I was so inclined to make a matching one for myself, I think Vogue 9040 is a pretty good adult match. But, nope, not going to happen 🙂

Kezia seemed to like the final outcome and that’s the main thing. Now, can I get back to just sewing stuff for myself please? 🙂 Have a great week ahead.

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat

Vogue 9043 DIY Linton Tweed Girls Flared Coat

 

New Look 6970: DIY Baby Dress and Pantaloons Set

New Look 6970 Babies Dress and Pantaloon Two Piece Set

Friends,

Whilst STILL waiting for decent weather for outdoor photography (possibly by the weekend/ early next week!) I have wanted to share a baby gift I have just completed. This is a two piece set consisting of a short dress and matching “pantaloons” (New Look’s description, not mine, but as I would rather not attract any more dubious searchers than I already do I am using that description :-)).

The pattern is New Look 6970 and I LOVE it. Not only because it is easy to sew, but there is also the cutest romper/ dungaree option included in it as well. I only wish I had a cute, chubby cheeked baby to photograph it on, but oh well, you are just going to have to squeal over the cuteness of frilly legged pantaloons!

I made views C and D. The bodice part of the dress is self lined so it is cleanly finished inside and no seams to irritate baby. The pantaloons are easy to sew and have casings for the elastic at the waistband and around the legs. I made my own bias binding to use for the leg casings. You don’t have too. I serged whatever seams needed to be. And my set is made in a soft dotted chambray. Note to my husband: girls don’t have to just wear pink!

New Look 6970 Babies Dress and Pantaloon Two Piece Set

New Look 6970 Babies Dress and Pantaloon Two Piece Set

New Look 6970 Babies Dress and Pantaloon Two Piece Set

Sooo cute I can hardly bear to send it away but there you go. It will be sent off for a friends baby girl. I can’t comment on the fit…I will let you know once I find out.

And the little knitted bunny was made by a talented lady in my art class. Is there anything more satifying than an all handmade gift?

Made with love in every careful stitch.

Hopefully back sharing some of my new summer sewing soon….

Knitted Bunny!

 

 

Nominette Custom Logo Clothing Label (and some other little sewing bits)

Nominette Custom Logo Clothing Label – Sewmanju

Hi Friends,

A few weeks ago a Belgium based company (that I confess I had never heard of) called Nominette got in touch with me to ask if I would be interested in reviewing some custom logo clothing labels and publishing my findings/ finished labels on my blog. I said ok. So right away I have to tell you that I recieved these labels on a complimentary basis from Nominette, but all views contained in this post are my own.

Nominette Custom Logo Clothing Label – Sewmanju

First off I would like to say that I LOVE the finished labels. They look the business, right? I went for the clothing label with logo (25mm), and selected the middle fold option, which means my logo is printed on one side of the label and the other side I decided to leave blank because I didn’t see the point of having care symbols on these labels, for my personal use. But of course you can have care symbols on the back if you so wish, and I know that both Melissa and Winnie both included care symbols on their labels.

As you can see I went for what I like to think of as the “blingy but classy look”, haha. My labels are black with my logo woven in gold thread.

Nominette Custom Logo Clothing Label – Sewmanju – reverse

The quality of these labels are second to none. The turn around time was very quick. I don’t think they are scratchy but I have just sewn one in to my first garment (the quilted jacket….still not done!) so only time will tell. They certainly don’t feel cheap or rough.

I had a huge hand in designing these labels, namely in the form of my sister, Ruth, who’s website you can visit here if you want to see what she does. I consider myself fairly computer literate but I am not au fait with design packages and so my sister designed the logo based on some ideas I gave her. I must also tell you that both of us struggled a little with a few aspects of the Nominette website. Things like the scale on the ruler on their website didn’t quite seem to make sense to us, some of the preview shots didn’t match what we input and it would have been nice to have had a chance to have a final preview of the designed label before committing to print. But these are minor things, and at the end of the day I got exactly what I ordered, no complaints, and other users have also used this website very successfully with no problems. So please don’t think I don’t highly recommend this company, because I do. I have passed on my feedback to Nominette and hopefully they will make the process even easier.

Thank you Nominette for the opportunity to have some of your fantastic labels. I think they take my finished garment up a level or two and I would definitely consider using them again once I run out of labels. BTW, in case anyone is wondering, I received 50 labels which should have cost £53.

Now on too a couple of other little things I wanted to share with you. My friend, Ange, who blogs over at black label blog recently had her first baby boy. Ange very generously sent me the fabric to make this top last summer:

Burdastyle Plus Size Placket Blouse 01/2010#133

Anyway, in return I made her some quilted baby bibs. Check them out. I first saw these over on Lori’s blog, and they are probably now my favourite baby gift to make. You can find the tutorial here. FYI I used a velcro fastening on mine.

Quilt as you go baby bib

Quilt as you go baby bib – reverse

Quilt as you go baby bibs

Lastly, at the start of the summer, I was the lucky winner of a prize giveaway on Denise’s blog, Dottie Doodle. Denise is a very talented lady who makes the most gorgeous little fabric covered notebooks, mirrors, badges and magnets. I was fortunate enough to win these very cute liberty covered fridge magnets. You can check out all her products (available to buy) here.

Dottie Doodle Liberty Covered Fridge Magnets

In conclusion, proof that the sewing blogging community still is the nicest blogging community around. Right?

Off to work on my quilted jacket!

Until soon….