I think this is my 7th time of making this pattern. Quite a record for me. This is my third plaid version. I have also made versions in denim, linen and cotton shirting and voile. BUT this version is an new and (mainly) improved version.
Why start messing around with a pattern on the 7th time of making you ask? Well, it started when I was featured in one of the “Same Pattern, Different Bodies” posts, about the Archer Shirt, on the Curvy Sewing Collective. (If you read through the comments section on that post, you will see that I did get rather irritated. Oh dear!) Anyway, moving on, one of the commentators said that she felt that all the shirts that were featured basically needed an FBA. I have never felt like I needed to do an FBA on the Archer shirt, but here’s the thing, when you sew a shirt in plaid then the checks can be very telling when it comes to the fit. Here are the first two versions of this shirt, sewn in plaid, without the FBA:
I don’t think the checks look too bad over the bust, but I decided that maybe I could do with just a small 0.5 inch FBA. So that is what I did, using the method described by Paprika Patterns (how to do a FBA on a dartless shirt). I eliminated the dart, and redrafted the side seam as I decided I did not want a bust dart interfering with any futher plaid versions of this pattern I might make.
Yes, I think the checks now lie just that tiny bit more horizontal. So FBA successfully completed.
Other changes I also made:
- I finally got round to adding 0.25 inches to the armholes, sleeves and side seams to facilitate flat fell finishing all those seams.
- I don’t mind using the continous lapped placket method for some shirts – in fact for light weight fabrics I probably prefer that method – but for more weightier fabrics I think a tower placket is more appropriate. So that’s what I did on this shirt, using this tutorial from Off The Cuff – excellent tutorial and surprisingly easy to do.
Now let’s talk about what is not so good: the comically large cuffs. Readers, I am completely baffled as to why the cuffs are as large as they are. I didn’t add anything to the cuff seam allowances, I did the pleats as usual, and the only thing I can think of is that either the plackets have somehow made them bigger, or that this fabric has just somehow grown?! I am stumped. Another version will probably have to be made to investigate. Sigh.
This is my first time using pearl snaps, and I basically followed exactly what VeryKerryBerry says to do in this tutorial, including buying the pliers and a set of Prym jersey snaps so that I would have the plastic attachments. Conclusion: using the Prym snaps gave the best results (rather than the generic snaps), and using the pliers with the plastic attachments gave pretty much fool proof results.
I love how cosy this version of this shirt is, and let’s face it, spring, at least in this corner of the world, is still a way off. If I can resolve the cuff issue this will continue to be a firm favourite.
The focus of todays post is my new jeggings, made using Jalie 3461; the Eleonore Pull-On Jeans pattern. But I also want to mention that I am wearing my jeggings with a new Grainline Archer shirt, made from a checked brushed cotton. This is the third time of me making the Archer and you can see the first two versions here and here. The only thing I changed with the current version is that I added 1 inch to the length.
Back to the jeggings. I guess you either love jeggings or hate them. I personally wear jeggings an awful lot on a day to day basis. I mean, for me they are smarter and more flattering than a legging, but more comfortable than jeans can sometimes be. Plus, I never wear my tops tucked into my waistband so I don’t mind the elasticated waistband (I must be getting old!!) I have no problem buy RTW jeggings, but when I saw the great versions of Eleonore that were popping up (like Dawn’s and Deepika’s) I ordered the pattern and used some stretch cotton twill I had in my stash to whip these up. Let’s consider these a wearable muslin.
The fit of these jeggings is not perfect. I think on my next pair I will shorten the length of the leg above the knee (and add it back at the ankle?), slim the inner thighs down, raise the crotch slightly and possibly move the pockets down a smidge.Any other suggestions?
One thing to note: I raised the waistband on these by 2 inches and they sit comfortably around my natural waist. I am 5 foot 3 so if you are making these I would say think about if you will be happy with the low rise as they come. Overall they are very comfortable but some tweaking needs to be done. Check out the review below for all the details.
Stretch pull-on jeans (long or cropped) with wide waistband.
- Yoke, faux fly in the front, patch pockets in the back
- Fitted through waist and hips, straight from the knee down
- Very easy to turn into skinny jeans!
27 sizes included in the pattern from girls through to plus size women.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes, but I made mine more of a skinny leg jegging
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes…but….minor gripe…the instructions as provided are dotted around all over the (large) pattern sheet. I know you can download the instructions but….!
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished product is so close to my RTW jeggings in appearance. I think with a few more fitting tweaks these will be perfect. The minor quibbles I have with this pattern are no lengthen/ shorten lines, the lack of an instruction sheet (the instructions of course are there but dotted around the pattern sheet), no pattern envelope provided and you are told to hem the jeggings before completing the waistband…hmm…not sure about that last point…risky I say.
Cotton twill with ?2%? elastane.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I cut the size according to my hip size (I didn’t size up) but I did have to ease a lot of fabric at the back on to the elastic to get the waist to fit without gaping due to the fact my waist is 2 sizes smaller than my hips. I purposefully cut the elastic shorter in the back to eliminate the gaping.
I added 2 inches to the rise at the front and back to get the waistband to hit at my natural waist.
I narrowed the leg by about 3 inches total in front and 2 inches total in back.
I removed 2 inches from the leg length.
I added additional topstitching on the pocket and inner leg seam and also added rivets.
I used the (larger) pockets from my Ginger Jeans pattern rather than the ones provided.
I turned 5/8ths inch over twice to hem.
Next time round I think I will shorten the length of the leg above the knee (and add it back at the ankle?), slim the inner thighs down, raise the crotch slightly and possibly move the pockets down a smidge.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes, definitely, although it is all a question of finding the perfect fabric. Sigh. Yes, I definitely recommend.
Fast to sew, convincing to look at and comfortable to wear.
Have a great weekend. Looks like we are in for another wet and windy one!