Tag Archive | Closet case patterns ginger jeans

Simplicity 8295 and Closet Case Patterns Ginger Skinny Jeans: DIY Linen Lace Up Eyelet Tunic and Skinny Jeans

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Simplicity 8295 linen tunic with eyelet and front lacing detail and stone coloured Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Hey Friends,

Hope you are all doing well. Today I am sharing a me-made outfit that has already had lots of wears. Neutral coloured pieces in great (breathable) fabric that can be mixed and matched with other pieces in my wardrobe are winners in my book.

Let’s start with the top: Simplicity 8295. This is a great pattern with some lovely details/ options. The only thing I would be wary of is, IMO, it is cut quite straight through the hips, so whilst its fine as a top, if I was making this again as a dress I would have to widen the hips.

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Simplicity 8295 linen tunic with eyelet and front lacing detail and stone coloured Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

The fabric is a linen/ cotton mix purchased from Fabworks. Unfortunately it looks like this particular fabric is sold out but they have lots of other linens at very reasonable prices. I just love the fabric!

Here’s a close up of the eyelet/ lacing detail. I used eyelets I already had in my stash. I couldn’t find any twill tape in a colour I was happy with so I ended up making my own lacing in self fabric. I find that in order to get eyelets that are really robust and not going to fall out you really need to experiment with your particular fabric to find out how many layers you need to support the weight of the eyelet. I interfaced scraps of the linen so it would be the same thickness as the placket and then experimented adding further layers of linen behind the eyelet to get an appropriate thickness. So behind every eyelet, inside the placket, there are extra squares of linen to take the weight of each eyelet. My other tip would be don’t make the size of the hole for the eyelet too big: better it is slightly smaller to hold the eyelet in place.

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Simplicity 8295 Linen Tunic – eyelets and lacing detail

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Simplicity 8295 linen tunic with eyelet and front lacing detail and stone coloured Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

You can see my first pair of Ginger jeans here. They were the first pair of jeans I made and they looked great when I was standing up….but my gosh they were so uncomfortable when I was sitting down, and I think that was largely down to the pocket stays that I had included (cut from a firm woven cotton). As a result, I think I have worn those jeans about twice. This time around I eliminated the pocket stays and gosh, what a difference! These jeans have already been worn so much. The light colour is great for summer, they are smart enough to wear to work without looking like they’re jeans and, whilst I will probably only ever wear them with longer length tops, they are just so much more comfortable. The fit still needs some tweaking (see my notes below), but these are a huge (wearable) improvement for me. The fabric for these jeans was purchased locally to me.

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Simplicity 8295 linen tunic with eyelet and front lacing detail and stone coloured Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Pattern Review Simplicity 8295

Pattern Description:

This tunic or dress Inspired by Project Runway features optional lace up or trim at the neckline. Make the tunic length to wear over skinny jeans or dress length for a casual event.

I made view C with the collar from view A.

Pattern Sizing:

6 – 22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, although I used my own techniques for a neater finish.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Love the finished garment. Love the eyelet/ lace up detail. Nothing to dislike as such, although I would say this pattern is fairly straight cut so if you are making the dress length I would say you might need to widen somewhat at the hips if you carry weight there like me 🙂

Fabric Used:

Cotton/ linen blend.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I did a 0.5 inch FBA
  • I shortened the bust dart by about 2 inches
  • Next time around I might lower the bust dart just a smidge
  • 1 inch sway back adjustment, adding removed length back to hems
  • Shortened sleeve length by 1.5 inches. I don’t think I will ever wear the sleeves unrolled, but if I wanted to on future versions I might add some length back again: the cuffs are actually quite narrow
  • 1 inch full arm adjustment
  • Cut 2 back yokes and used the burrito method for a clean finish inside
  • Took 3/8ths inch seam allowance at hips
  • Increased length of side slits by about 2.5 inches (making them 8 inches in total)
  • Flat felled the sleeve seams so it would look neat when the sleeves are rolled up
  • Took 1.25 inches for the hems

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

It’s quite a distinctive look: don’t know if I need another one right now, but never say never. Yes, I recommend.

Conclusion:

Love the detail on this top, which elevates it somewhat. Great summer piece.

Notes on Ginger Jeans:

  • Added 0.25 inches at front and back sides and 0.5 inches to waistband
  • Removed pocket stays
  • Scooped out front and back crotch by 0.25 inches
  • Removed 3 inches from length
  • Let side seams out fractionally at knees
  • Next time around I need to remove some length above the knees
  • Still not happy with some of the wrinkling in the inner leg: need to play around with this
  • For next time I am going to raise the back pocket position up by 1 inch
  • I have already made a 0.5 inch full calf adjustment on the pattern for next time, tapering back to the original width at the ankle

Hope you’re all having a great weekend. Happy sewing!

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Simplicity 8295 linen tunic with eyelet and front lacing detail and stone coloured Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

 

Closet Case Patterns Ginger Skinny Jeans: DIY Dark Denim Skinny Fit Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Hello Friends,

I am absolutely thrilled to say that I have finished sewing my first ever pair of jeans: Closet Case Patterns Ginger Skinny Jeans. And I love them! If I had any doubts at the start about the validity of sewing my own jeans those doubts have been well and truly dispelled. IMO, these jeans are comfortable, flattering and the perfect fit  – for me.

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

You can read my first post about these jeans here.

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

What do I want to say about these jeans?

Well, I don’t know what weight or percentage lycra my denim has in it. I would say, at a guess, it is a medium weight denim with not very much lycra in it (less than or equal to 2%)?

In the end I did spend quite a bit of time trying to perfect the fit on these jeans (in addition to making a muslin – see the first post). As the pattern suggests, I basted the jeans together and tried them on. They were too loose below the knees so I pinned out the excess from both the inner and outer seams, unpicked and cut the legs narrower. I then re-basted, tried on again, and decided they were a tad too small (!) around the ankle. Sigh. So I sewed them in that area with a 0.5 inch seam allowance and they are a perfect fit.

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

You can read the full details on all pattern modifications below.

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

The eagle eyed among you would have noticed I decided to do my bar tacks and button hole in contrasting red thread. I only used one machine to sew these jeans up (and my overlocker to finish seams – I decided against the flat felled seams in the end). So I was dealing with swapping between 3 different thread colours. But it personally didn’t bother me doing so. I also didn’t have any problems installing my rivets or button – but then I don’t think my rivets or button are the real deal heavy duty metal type. They are what I could source locally to me. Some detail shots:

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Back Pocket Detail

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Back Pocket Detail

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Pocket Stay and Bound Fly Extension

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Fly Topstitching

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Fly Topstitching

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Coin Pocket and Rivet Detail

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans Coin Pocket and Rivet Detail

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Classic 5-pocket jeans are given a fresh look with the Ginger Jeans sewing pattern. With a modern and flattering cut, this is the daily staple you’ll reach for again and again. View A features a comfortable low rise with narrow stovepipe legs. View B is sexy and high-waisted with skinny legs.  Designed for stretch denim, Ginger Jeans will hug you in all the right places.

Engineered to be as flattering as possible, Ginger Jeans feature subtly shaped back pockets to highlight the curve of the bum, slimming side seams and a higher back rise to prevent peekabooty.

I made view B, the high-waisted view with skinny legs.
Pattern Sizing:
2 – 18.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
The instructions are good but the sewalong is the bomb! These are the first pair of jeans I have ever made and they make the process painless.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
For me these jeans are the perfect modern skinny jean. There is nothing to dislike.
Fabric Used:
A dark wash denim of unknown weight or lycra percentage. Sorry 🙂 At a guess I would say these are a medium weight denim with less than or equal to 2% lycra?
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
To start with, I cut a size 16 at the waist and a 18 at the hips and thighs, tapering back down to a size 16 below the knees. I ended up keeping the ankle at a size 16, but removed a further 1 inch in total from each leg from the calf up to the knee. I removed the 1 inch from both inside and outside seams.

I ended up pinching out 2 inches in total from the waistband and making it more curved to account for my proportionally smaller waist and sway back. The waist is a perfect fit. No gaping. Amazing!

I initially shortened the length by 2 inches but ended up adding in 1 inch below the knee, because I like my skinny legs to be slightly gathered around the lower calf.

I added the pocket stays – they make such a difference to the tummy area! I cut my stays from a soft cotton shirting.I understitched the pocket linings.

I moved the back pockets over towards the centre back seam by 1 inch.

I ended up scooping the front and back crotch out by 0.25 inch.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
Yes. I most definitely would. It’s just a question of finding the right denim. Yes, I very much recommend.
Conclusion:

I have avoided wearing proper jeans for around 3 years because of problems with fit. These jeans address all the previous problems I faced: no gaping waistband, no bulging tummy, no digging/ cutting in or riding up and just the right amount of fit on the calves. If you have the confidence to try this pattern you won’t regret it. It’s the perfect first-timers pattern.

I am entering these jeans into The Jeans Contest on Sewing Pattern Review, so head over if you want to see all the amazing entries.

Have a great week everyone, and happy mothers day (as it is here in the UK). See you soon!

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Closet Case Patterns Ginger Skinny Jeans: Fit and Construction Post

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Hello Friends,

I have started sewing a pair of Ginger Skinny Jeans by Closet Case Patterns, and thought I would share my thoughts on fit and construction prior to showing you the finished jeans (hopefully later this week).

Sewing jeans is, for most home sewers, a daunting task. I have never sewn a pair of jeans before (or even proper fitted trousers). Let me tell you I am so impressed with the detailed sewalong for this pattern, which really makes the process easy.

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

I did make a muslin. No, I didn’t make a muslin out of denim. I made it from a thickish stretch cotton sateen, more than anything to check the fit of the crotch. I am sure I read somewhere Heather saying something like the crotch on these jeans are designed to fit most people, and I read it and thought “yeah, yeah”, but for me, at least, they seem to fit very well. (Sorry I don’t have any muslin pictures). So the actual changes I made to the pattern are minimal:

  • I cut a size 16 at the waist, grading to a size 18 at the hips and thighs and grading back down to a size 16 below the knees. As others have said, even if you fall a couple of inches outside of the pattern sizing range give this pattern a try because the way it is drafted, together with the ease from your stretch denim, chances are you can make it fit.
  • I ended up pinching out 2 inches in total from the waist band, which probably brings it to a size 14, but, more importantly for me, curved the waistband round to account for my (proportionally smaller) waist and sway back.
  • I shortened the pattern by 2 inches but added an inch back to the final length below the knees. I like my skinny jeans to be slightly longer and gathered round the calf.
  • I have moved the back pockets over by an inch towards the centre back seam. The pockets haven’t yet been topstitched in place, just basted, so their position may change yet.
  • I added the pocket stay, cut from some soft cotton shirting.
Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

In terms of construction the biggest tip I can give you is to either get one of those humpjumper attachment thingys to fit your sewing machine or just do what I did, fold a spare piece of denim up and place directly behind your machine foot when you come to sewing over thicker layer like the yokes or the edges of the coin pocket. It raises your machine foot to the same level as the fabric you are sewing so you don’t get those horrible skipped, uneven stitches. This is such a great tip to use on so many sewing projects, not just jeans….anywhere you have thick seams to get over.

Sewing over thick layers of denim using an improvised humpjumper

Sewing over thick layers of denim using an improvised humpjumper

I am going to baste my jeans together and have a final try on before the final sewing up. I think I will do the flat fell seam finish on the inside and outside leg seam. I never thought I would say that sewing jeans is very satisfying and hopefully the end result will be worth it.

Until soon, have a great week ahead.

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