Tag Archive | ginger jeans

Simplicity 8295 and Closet Case Patterns Ginger Skinny Jeans: DIY Linen Lace Up Eyelet Tunic and Skinny Jeans

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Simplicity 8295 linen tunic with eyelet and front lacing detail and stone coloured Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Hey Friends,

Hope you are all doing well. Today I am sharing a me-made outfit that has already had lots of wears. Neutral coloured pieces in great (breathable) fabric that can be mixed and matched with other pieces in my wardrobe are winners in my book.

Let’s start with the top: Simplicity 8295. This is a great pattern with some lovely details/ options. The only thing I would be wary of is, IMO, it is cut quite straight through the hips, so whilst its fine as a top, if I was making this again as a dress I would have to widen the hips.

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Simplicity 8295 linen tunic with eyelet and front lacing detail and stone coloured Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

The fabric is a linen/ cotton mix purchased from Fabworks. Unfortunately it looks like this particular fabric is sold out but they have lots of other linens at very reasonable prices. I just love the fabric!

Here’s a close up of the eyelet/ lacing detail. I used eyelets I already had in my stash. I couldn’t find any twill tape in a colour I was happy with so I ended up making my own lacing in self fabric. I find that in order to get eyelets that are really robust and not going to fall out you really need to experiment with your particular fabric to find out how many layers you need to support the weight of the eyelet. I interfaced scraps of the linen so it would be the same thickness as the placket and then experimented adding further layers of linen behind the eyelet to get an appropriate thickness. So behind every eyelet, inside the placket, there are extra squares of linen to take the weight of each eyelet. My other tip would be don’t make the size of the hole for the eyelet too big: better it is slightly smaller to hold the eyelet in place.

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Simplicity 8295 Linen Tunic – eyelets and lacing detail

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Simplicity 8295 linen tunic with eyelet and front lacing detail and stone coloured Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

You can see my first pair of Ginger jeans here. They were the first pair of jeans I made and they looked great when I was standing up….but my gosh they were so uncomfortable when I was sitting down, and I think that was largely down to the pocket stays that I had included (cut from a firm woven cotton). As a result, I think I have worn those jeans about twice. This time around I eliminated the pocket stays and gosh, what a difference! These jeans have already been worn so much. The light colour is great for summer, they are smart enough to wear to work without looking like they’re jeans and, whilst I will probably only ever wear them with longer length tops, they are just so much more comfortable. The fit still needs some tweaking (see my notes below), but these are a huge (wearable) improvement for me. The fabric for these jeans was purchased locally to me.

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Simplicity 8295 linen tunic with eyelet and front lacing detail and stone coloured Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

Pattern Review Simplicity 8295

Pattern Description:

This tunic or dress Inspired by Project Runway features optional lace up or trim at the neckline. Make the tunic length to wear over skinny jeans or dress length for a casual event.

I made view C with the collar from view A.

Pattern Sizing:

6 – 22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, although I used my own techniques for a neater finish.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

Love the finished garment. Love the eyelet/ lace up detail. Nothing to dislike as such, although I would say this pattern is fairly straight cut so if you are making the dress length I would say you might need to widen somewhat at the hips if you carry weight there like me 🙂

Fabric Used:

Cotton/ linen blend.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I did a 0.5 inch FBA
  • I shortened the bust dart by about 2 inches
  • Next time around I might lower the bust dart just a smidge
  • 1 inch sway back adjustment, adding removed length back to hems
  • Shortened sleeve length by 1.5 inches. I don’t think I will ever wear the sleeves unrolled, but if I wanted to on future versions I might add some length back again: the cuffs are actually quite narrow
  • 1 inch full arm adjustment
  • Cut 2 back yokes and used the burrito method for a clean finish inside
  • Took 3/8ths inch seam allowance at hips
  • Increased length of side slits by about 2.5 inches (making them 8 inches in total)
  • Flat felled the sleeve seams so it would look neat when the sleeves are rolled up
  • Took 1.25 inches for the hems

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

It’s quite a distinctive look: don’t know if I need another one right now, but never say never. Yes, I recommend.

Conclusion:

Love the detail on this top, which elevates it somewhat. Great summer piece.

Notes on Ginger Jeans:

  • Added 0.25 inches at front and back sides and 0.5 inches to waistband
  • Removed pocket stays
  • Scooped out front and back crotch by 0.25 inches
  • Removed 3 inches from length
  • Let side seams out fractionally at knees
  • Next time around I need to remove some length above the knees
  • Still not happy with some of the wrinkling in the inner leg: need to play around with this
  • For next time I am going to raise the back pocket position up by 1 inch
  • I have already made a 0.5 inch full calf adjustment on the pattern for next time, tapering back to the original width at the ankle

Hope you’re all having a great weekend. Happy sewing!

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Simplicity 8295 linen tunic with eyelet and front lacing detail and stone coloured Closet Case Ginger Skinny Jeans

 

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Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse – Version 2 – DIY Silk Tie Neck Blouse

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Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse in Forest Green Crepe de Chine Silk (worn with my ginger jeans).

Hey Friends,

This here is my second version of the Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse, and this time I think I nailed the fit.

You can see my first version here. I have worn this first version quite a bit but it needed a FBA, which I have now done following this tutorial for doing an FBA on a dartless front blouse. It does  mean that now this version has bust darts but I can live with that. The FBA also means the front length is now much improved.

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Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse in Forest Green Crepe de Chine Silk


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Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse in Forest Green Crepe de Chine Silk

Details (check my first version for full review):

Fabric: Forest green crepe de chine silk ordered from silk seller on eBay.

Edit: some of you have asked for the seller details so here they are: 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/131724105418

I can’t recommend this seller enough for their quality, value and service. 

Modifications: 0.5 inch FBA and added bust darts. The FBA resulted in a one inch increase in length to the centre front; I added a further 0.5 inches.

Construction: french seamed throughout, including sleeves. I added a continous lapped bound placket to allow me to french seam the sleeve side seams.

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Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse in Forest Green Crepe de Chine Silk – continous lapped bound placket

Sam gave me the idea to attach the neck ties to the blouse first and then sew the centre front seam up using a french seam which resulted in a tidier finish.

Overall I love this blouse, and plan on wearing it out for a lunch date on valentines day.

Have a great day!

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Sewoverit Pussy Bow Blouse in Forest Green Crepe de Chine Silk

 

Closet Case Patterns Ginger Skinny Jeans: Fit and Construction Post

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Hello Friends,

I have started sewing a pair of Ginger Skinny Jeans by Closet Case Patterns, and thought I would share my thoughts on fit and construction prior to showing you the finished jeans (hopefully later this week).

Sewing jeans is, for most home sewers, a daunting task. I have never sewn a pair of jeans before (or even proper fitted trousers). Let me tell you I am so impressed with the detailed sewalong for this pattern, which really makes the process easy.

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

I did make a muslin. No, I didn’t make a muslin out of denim. I made it from a thickish stretch cotton sateen, more than anything to check the fit of the crotch. I am sure I read somewhere Heather saying something like the crotch on these jeans are designed to fit most people, and I read it and thought “yeah, yeah”, but for me, at least, they seem to fit very well. (Sorry I don’t have any muslin pictures). So the actual changes I made to the pattern are minimal:

  • I cut a size 16 at the waist, grading to a size 18 at the hips and thighs and grading back down to a size 16 below the knees. As others have said, even if you fall a couple of inches outside of the pattern sizing range give this pattern a try because the way it is drafted, together with the ease from your stretch denim, chances are you can make it fit.
  • I ended up pinching out 2 inches in total from the waist band, which probably brings it to a size 14, but, more importantly for me, curved the waistband round to account for my (proportionally smaller) waist and sway back.
  • I shortened the pattern by 2 inches but added an inch back to the final length below the knees. I like my skinny jeans to be slightly longer and gathered round the calf.
  • I have moved the back pockets over by an inch towards the centre back seam. The pockets haven’t yet been topstitched in place, just basted, so their position may change yet.
  • I added the pocket stay, cut from some soft cotton shirting.
Closet Case Ginger Jeans

Closet Case Ginger Jeans

In terms of construction the biggest tip I can give you is to either get one of those humpjumper attachment thingys to fit your sewing machine or just do what I did, fold a spare piece of denim up and place directly behind your machine foot when you come to sewing over thicker layer like the yokes or the edges of the coin pocket. It raises your machine foot to the same level as the fabric you are sewing so you don’t get those horrible skipped, uneven stitches. This is such a great tip to use on so many sewing projects, not just jeans….anywhere you have thick seams to get over.

Sewing over thick layers of denim using an improvised humpjumper

Sewing over thick layers of denim using an improvised humpjumper

I am going to baste my jeans together and have a final try on before the final sewing up. I think I will do the flat fell seam finish on the inside and outside leg seam. I never thought I would say that sewing jeans is very satisfying and hopefully the end result will be worth it.

Until soon, have a great week ahead.

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