interfacing jacket

Simplicity 2446 DIY Tailored Ponte Wool Knit Navy Blazer (worn with Pauline Alice Reina blouse)

Hi Everyone!

It’s been a while. That’s because this blazer has taken me almost 2 weeks to complete. This is the second tailored blazer I have made (you can see the first one here), and unlike last time when I used traditional hand stitching techniques, this time around I used the fusible approach. It still seemed to take me just as long, lol.

Simplicity 2446 DIY Tailored Ponte Wool Knit Navy Blazer

To make this blazer I used Simplicity 2446, which is one of those Amazing Fit patterns with 1 inch vertical seam allowances to permit fitting alterations to be made. There are lots of things which I like about this blazer (see review below for full details), and it is definitely going to get lots of wear, but I am going to state here and now that I feel it is too big in the shoulders (one of the perils of not making a muslin)! Of course, after I started sewing this blazer up and looked in more detail at other reviews I realised that other sewists have observed the same thing. If you have relatively small shoulders then the chances are you are going to have to do some kind of small shoulder adjustment on this pattern. It might be more obvious in the following picture. Like I say, it won’t stop me wearing this blazer lots because I do love it, and truthfully probably will rarely wear it fastened, but if I am going to sew this pattern again it’s something I need to address.

Simplicity 2446 DIY Tailored Ponte Wool Knit Navy Blazer

See not as obvious when open.

Simplicity 2446 DIY Tailored Ponte Wool Knit Navy Blazer worn with Pauline Alice Reina Blouse

Another thing I would alter next time is the fit at the back. I ended up removing quite a few inches back there, and I think next time around I would add a centre back seam.

Simplicity 2446 DIY Tailored Ponte Wool Knit Navy Blazer

As mentioned above, this blazer was made using fusible interfacings to take the place of traditional tailoring techniques (full details below). I used the Craftsy class, Modern Jacket Techniques, but I am going to do a review of that class another day. What I will say is that the price of that class is worth it purely for the demonstration of the welt pockets that Pam Howard does. Brilliant! My first time doing these type of welt pockets with flaps and I am pretty pleased with how well they turned out. TIP: Pam advises double interfacing the flaps with a heavier weight weft insertion interfacing to help them hang correctly, and they do.

Simplicity 2446 DIY Tailored Ponte Wool Knit Navy Blazer – Welt pocket with flap detail

Simplicity 2446 DIY Tailored Ponte Wool Knit Navy Blazer – lined pocket flap in welt pocket detail

It is worth noting that the original Simplicity pattern does not include actual welt pockets, but a faux flap, and then an inseam pocket is inserted into the princess seam coming down from the shoulder. Dislike! Another thing which lets this pattern down somewhat is that there is no separate lining pieces included. As part of the Craftsy class, Pam Howard instructs you how to draft the back lining piece and also how to draft a back neck facing to add stability to the back of the jacket. I chose to bag my lining out.

Simplicity 2446 DIY Tailored Ponte Wool Knit Navy Blazer – lining/ back facing detail

Simplicity 2446 DIY Tailored Ponte Wool Knit Navy Blazer – inside flat piping at facing detail

None functioning vents are included as part of the two piece sleeve.

Simplicity 2446 DIY Tailored Ponte Wool Knit Navy Blazer – triple button vent detail

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Misses’ and Miss Petite lined jacket sewing pattern with individual pattern pieces for A, B, C cup sizes. Simplicity sewing pattern, Amazing Fit Collection.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 24
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
I didn’t really follow them. I followed the Craftsy class, Modern Jacket Techniques to make this jacket. I will post a review for that class on my blog soon.

One thing I did notice is that the instructions seem to miss out altogether the sewing of the dart on the jacket front.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Likes:

I really like the shoulder princess seams. I think it gives a leaner, cleaner look to the jacket.
I made minimal alterations to this jacket (really it is a wearable muslin as I hate to muslin otherwise).
I like the two piece sleeves (with non functioning vents), and they went in very easily.
Two piece under collar which is cut on the bias and with in-built turn of cloth, resulting in neat finished collar with no under collar showing on upper collar.

Dislikes:

The blazer is too big for me in the shoulders (despite selecting my size based on high bust measurement). Next time around I will do a small shoulder adjustment. After making this jacket and reading other reviews this appears to be a common complaint from women with smaller shoulders, so be warned. It won’t stop me wearing the jacket though!
I dislike the original in seam pockets with the faux flaps, and replaced them with welt pockets with flap.
No back lining pattern piece included. I drafted a back lining piece with pleat and a back neck facing, using instructions provided in the Craftsy class.
I would like to add a centre back seam if I make this pattern up again. I found I had to remove quite a bit of excess in the back to improve the fit.

Fabric Used:
A ponte wool double knit. Viscose lining.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Added an extra button so blazer has three, rather than two, buttonholes
Changed inseam pockets with faux flap to welt pockets with flap
Drafted back lining piece with pleat and back neck facing
1 inch sway back adjustment with removed length added back to hems
I ended up removing quite a bit from the back seams and a little from the side seams to improve overall fit
2 inch full arm adjustment
My blazer is interfaced heavily inside. I used a lightweight knit interfacing to interface the blazer fronts, side fronts, all hems, sleeve vents, upper sleeve down to bicep level (about 8.5 inches), upper collar, upper back and upper side back (in place of a traditional back stay) and also pocket welts and back neck facing. I used a slightly heavier weight weft insertion interfacing to interface the front facings, under collar, a collar stand and pocket flaps (which were double interfaced to help them hang better).
Added topstitching and flat piping at the facing inside.
Made custom shoulder pads
Taped the shoulder seams using twill tape.
Added shoulder reinforcements made using hair canvas as otherwise the shoulders were collapsing on me as a result of being too big.
Bagged the lining out.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I am trying to find the perfect TNT blazer pattern and, with the exception of the shoulder fitting and lack of centre back seam this one is close. I might give it another go. Yes, I would recommend this pattern.
Conclusion:

Despite some fit issues I love the finished blazer and it will definitely get LOTS of wear and love from me: a wardrobe staple.

Have you got a favourite blazer pattern? I still have McCalls 6172 in my stash…have a great week ahead!

Simplicity 2446 DIY Tailored Ponte Wool Knit Navy Blazer

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

Hi Friends,

First of all thank you for all your lovely comments on my last post. At the end of that post I said I had made a jacket to go with the dress. Well, not exactly to go with the dress. But I felt a smart dress like that needed a smart jacket that I could throw over it if necessary. So, as my next White Tree Fabrics project, I decided to make a black satin tuxedo style jacket from Vogue 8958.

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

I have to say that the satin is very hard to photograph without showing it as being incredibly wrinkled. I promise you, in real life it doesn’t look that bad!

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket

White Tree Fabrics very generously supplied me with the pattern, this premium duchess satin and this premium viscose lining. I prewashed all the fabrics before sewing and I can testify they wash and sew beautifully and the end product looks very high quality.

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket – Inside Lining

The Vogue pattern itself is a great pattern to have in your stash. I think it is their take on the Le Smoking tuxedo jacket first shown by YSL in 1966. It’s just a classic pattern and I would love to make up view D sometime in a crepe. It also features 2 piece sleeves which give a great shape and are very comfortable to wear:

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket – two piece sleeve

Vogue 8958: DIY Ladies Satin Tuxedo Jacket – flap and button detail.

I have quite a bit to say on the pattern: see below for full details.

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
Fitted, lined vest or jacket has collar variations, shoulder pads, princess seams and front button closing. A: button trim. B: flaps. C and D: side front pockets. B, C and D: two-piece sleeves.

I made view B.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes.
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes – although I did some of my own things.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love the finished fit (see notes below!), the two piece sleeves and the overall shape. Nothing to dislike as such.
Fabric Used:
Duchess Satin (not silk) outer with viscose lining.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
First thing to say is that I reckon there is about 3 – 4 inches of ease in this pattern. As I figured I would only be wearing this jacket to more evening type events over a thin blouse or dress I decided to size down by one size.

I think the instructions call for sew in interfacing? (Can’t actually remember now). I used iron on knit fusible interfacing. In addition to interfacing the jacket facing, flaps and under collar as per the instructions I interfaced all the hems and also fused a back stay.

I added a pleat to the lining at centre back.

I added 1/4 inch extra height to the armholes of the lining at the front, back and sleeves to allow more ease with the lining.

I shortened the sleeves by 3 inches.

I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment.

I bagged out the lining. The pattern has you bagging out the body: don’t see why Vogue couldn’t have just gone one step further and instructed you how to bag out the entire jacket?
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I would like to sew view D sometime. Yes, I recommend, although this jacket is rated as easy and I thought there was quite a bit of work involved: it did take me a while to sew up.
Conclusion:

I am severely lacking in smart jackets in my wardrobe, so I am very glad to have this one as a start. I wore it over skinny jeans and a silk top (to blog soon!) on Friday night to a local fashion show and was very pleased with how it felt and looked.

Until soon and have a great week ahead.