Muse Patterns Jenna Cardigans and Jalie 3461 Eleonore Jeans: DIY Cardigans and Pull On Corduroy Jeans

Long line Muse Patterns Jenna Cardigan

Hi Friends,

Sharing some cold weather sewing today. Not fancy. Not complicated. Just practical.

First up, two versions of the Muse Patterns Jenna Cardigan. You can read about my first (very successful) one here. I love that version and it has been worn lots.

Long line Muse Patterns Jenna Cardigan

Version one is made using an acrylic knit that I purchased from Fabworks (no longer available in this colourway) during the Yorkshire Spoolette’s meet up earlier this year. The only modification made was to lengthen the cardigan by 5 inches and omit the buttons (I have added a hook and eye at the neck). TBH I am not sure about this version, although I did wear it over a dress for the first time the other day (see how I wore it here on IG). It is a great layering piece but I am not sure about the length and the overall slouchiness. I think the neckline and the sleeve cuffs have generally stretched out and perhaps that is what is further putting me off. Time will tell whether this gets worn or not.

Long line Muse Patterns Jenna Cardigan

Muse Patterns Jenna Cardigan worn with Jalie 3461 Eleonore Pull on Corduroy Jeans and Grainline Archer Shirt

The second version was made using some Isabella Wool Mix Jersey that I purchased from Sewessential. This colourway (which I think was called claret) appears to have sold out, but there are several other colour options available. When I first received the fabric I was a little concerned how it would work with this pattern because it does have some amount of two way stretch and I wasn’t sure how that would work with the interfaced button band. But I found some suitable knit interfacing in my stash and everything worked out well (except I inadvertently took 5/8ths inch seam allowance at the shoulders when the seam allowance on this pattern is 3/8ths inch). I do think if I make this pattern again maybe I should consider a small shoulder adjustment.

Muse Patterns Jenna Cardigan worn with Jalie 3461 Eleonore Pull on Corduroy Jeans and Grainline Archer Shirt

Anyway, I like this version a lot and it has been worn a fair amount already. And to finish just wanted to say I made the black stretch corduroy jeans I am wearing in these latter two pictures (sorry, I know you can’t see them very well). They were made using Jalie 3461 which I have written about here, and the only change I made was to add 0.25 inches to the inner and outer lower legs on the front and back pieces. Again, these have already been worn lots. The only thing is that, as corduroy tends too, these do stretch out a little with wear, but they are just so nice and warm on a frosty day that I know they will get worn lots over the winter.

Boring basics? Perhaps. But probably the ones that, realistically, get worn the most.

See you soon!

 

 

 

 

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Simplicity 8019 and Jalie 3461 Eleonore Jeans: DIY Real Suede Leather Button Front Skirt and Red Jeggings

Simplicity 8019: Real Suede Leather Button Front Skirt (worn with a new white cotton shirting Archer shirt)

Hello Dear Friends,

It’s been too long! The blasted British weather has meant I have not been able to take any decent blog photographs for ages but today I braved the wind and chill to snap these photos. The lighting was not ideal , and of course, as I type this the sun has come out, but hey ho.

Simplicity 8019: Real Suede Leather Button Front Skirt

I am totally thrilled with how this skirt has turned out. The pattern is Simplicity 8019, a reissued 70s pattern, and I have made it in the most glorious chestnut brown real suede leather. Really, when I wear this piece I feel very…luxurious. And, oh yes, I made the white cotton shirting Archer shirt as well.

Simplicity 8019: Real Suede Leather Button Front Skirt

First, let me say that I actually made this pattern up first in some faux suede, as a wearable muslin. Sorry, but you are only going to get a hanger shot of it. Full review below, but what I will say is that this pattern is quite a neat fit at the waist/ high hip/ tummy area. The muslin fits me, but for the real suede version I sized up slightly at the waist/ high hip. If you carry any extra weight in these areas be warned! Now I have made the real suede version of course this faux suede one is just not comparable: it has quite a bit of static and yep, I just don’t love it the way I do the real suede one.

Simplicity 8019: DIY Faux Suede Button Front Skirt

So, I bought 3 skins of chestnut suede totalling 42 square feet from Le Prevo Leathers in Newcastle, and you can read about my previous epxeriences of sewing with leather in this post here. Pretty much whatever I wrote in that post for sewing and interfacing leather holds true for this suede. I could probably have got away with only buying 2 skins but because of the nap and shape of the pattern pieces I had to go for 3. The snaps on this real suede version were also purchased from Le Prevo.

This real suede version is fully lined in a viscose lining (a remnant from a previous project). I also added hanger loops made from the lining fabric.

Simplicity 8019: Real Suede Leather Button Front Skirt – full viscose lining

The hem (on the suede) was interfaced and I did a narrow 5/8ths inch hem. I found the deeper hem recommended by the pattern (2 inches) difficult to ease in with the faux suede version and this narrow hem was easier to control. I used specialised leather sewing thread (also bought from Le Prevo) and a stitch length of 4.0 for construction and topstitching.

Simplicity 8019: Real Suede Leather Button Front Skirt – Hem and lining detail

Simplicity 8019: Real Suede Leather Button Front Skirt – Snaps and topstitching detail

I FREAKING LOVE MY SKIRT!

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:
These front-gored buttoned skirts from the 1970’s can be made retro with flowy floral prints, or modern in linen or lightweight denim. Skirt can also be made in four lengths. Vintage Simplicity sewing pattern.
Pattern Sizing:
6 – 24
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Yes
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes…but there were things I didn’t like. See below.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
I love my final version made in real suede leather. But I made a muslin first (from faux suede) and the fit was slightly off and I didn’t like some aspects of the construction. Nothing to dislike as such. Its a great look.
Fabric Used:
Faux suede for the muslin and real suede leather for the final version lined in viscose lining. I purchased 3 skins of suede totalling 42 square feet. There is a lot of left-over suede but due to the nap and shape of the pattern pieces I could not have got away with just 2 skins.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I found this pattern to be a neat fit at the waist/ high hips/ tummy area and would recommend making a muslin first if you carry any weight in these areas! For the real suede leather version I sized up slightly at the waist and high hip.

I didn’t like the way the pattern had you put the waist band on first and then finish the button facings. When I made it second time around I did the topstitching on the button facings first and then added my waist band. I also fully lined the skirt on the second version and used snaps rather than buttons.

I found the 2 inch hem hard to ease in on the faux suede version so I removed 2 inches from the length on the real suede leather version and did a narrow 5/8ths inch hem.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
I may make it again…I think it would look great in denim, corduroy or even a flowing viscose for summer. Yes I recommend.
Conclusion:

Love, love, love my final version. It feels so luxurious. I can see me wearing this in the summer with a light top and sandals and with boots and a cropped sweater in the winter. Now I want to sew a wardrobe of things just to wear with it.

Simplicity 8019: Real Suede Leather Button Front Skirt worn with a new white cotton shirting Archer shirt.

So, I also wanted to share my third pair of Jalie pull on Eleonore jeans. I did’t feel they warranted an entire post of their own. Check out my last pair here. This pair was made exactly the same way except for the fact that I shortened the back elastic by a further 1.5 inches or so. The fit is spot on, but these are made from a cotton/ spandex and personally, I don’t think they are quite as flattering as the black denim ones. They will still get worn, especially when it warms up.

Jalie 3461 Elenore DIY Pull on Jeans Jeggings.

Jalie 3461 Elenore DIY Pull on Jeans Jeggings.

What possessed me to wear red and blue I don’t know? Anyway, have a great week ahead and happy sewing!

Until soon…

 

McCalls 7248, Butterick 6179, Jalie 3461 Eleonore Jeans and McCalls 6886: DIY animal print top, culottes, jeggings and breton top

McCalls 7248 animal print tunic top and Butterick 6179 triple crepe culottes

Hello Readers!

Today is a bit of a bumper post containing the next 4 items that I sewed up for the wardrobe contest currently running on PR.com. The first thing I have to say is that I am about to cut out item number 7, but I have made a decision that I am not going to rush to complete the remaining 4 items by the end of the month. I am absolutely fine with that, and it is the right decision for me. I have no regrets with what I have sewn up for the contest so far and will still go on to probably sew the remaining garments in my own good time.

McCalls 7248 animal print tunic top and Butterick 6179 triple crepe culottes

So first up is Butterick 6179, first sewn here. This version is made in a triple crepe and the only alteration I made was to shorten this version by 2 inches compared to the first version. I LOVE these culottes…I know they are not everyones cup of tea…but I just love how I feel when I wear them. Classy, elegant, sophisticated and on trend. Nothing more to say about these.

McCalls 7248 animal print tunic top and Butterick 6179 triple crepe culottes

The top…now that’s a whole other matter, LOL. The top is McCalls 7248. I had such high hopes for this top, especially after seeing Amanda’s gorgeous version, and really I guess I was hoping this version (made in a polyester georgette) would be a wearable muslin. And it kind of almost is. But, you see, I made a decision to raise the neckline split by 1 inch and I think that 1 little inch has thrown the fit of the whole top off. You can probably see in the pictures it is pulling over the top of my bust from the neckline split.

McCalls 7248 animal print tunic top and Butterick 6179 triple crepe culottes

If you follow me on instagram you would have seen I initially attached one of the sleeves and it just felt tight right across the tops of the arms and across the back. So I took the sleeve off and added a self bias facing at the armholes and kept it sleeveless. The fit of this top is not perfect and I really don’t know if it is simply down to that 1 inch or something else. I did do an FBA on the pattern and added bust darts before sewing…even in this sleeveless version the armholes are snug (but wearable). Any thoughts? Here’s some pictures of it untucked (I would never wear it like this with the culottes BTW!)…and my review follows.

McCalls 7248 animal print tunic top and Butterick 6179 triple crepe culottes

McCalls 7248 animal print tunic top and Butterick 6179 triple crepe culottes

 

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Loose-fitting, pullover tops have front band and pleat, back pleat, Self-lined yoke, and narrow hem. A and B: Bias neck binding and gathers. B, C (button tab) and D: Long sleeves with continuous lap, pleats and button cuffs. Wrong side shows on rolled sleeves C, and longer back hemline B and D. C and D: Neck band.

I made view B with the sleeve tabs from View C and the hem from View D.

Pattern Sizing:

6 – 22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Erm…kind of. My version is sleeveless.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

For the most part, yes. I did NOT like the instructions for the neck band and did my own thing! First off you are told to staystich the neckline at 0.5 inches from the raw edge, but the neck band is sewn on using a 3/8 inch seam allowance, which means the stay stitching is visible (and therefore had to be unpicked). Secondly, if you follow the instructions fot the neck band I think the pattern has you treat the neck band almost like a bias facing? I didn’t get that. I wanted my neck band to be more visible so I turned the inside edge under and slip stitched it closed.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

See above for a dislike. The fit of my top is off and the main reason I think is due to the fact I raised the neckline slit depth by 1 inch. It seems to have thrown the fit of the whole top off. There are pull lines radiating out from the neckline slit over the top of my bust. Initially I had a sleeve on and it felt tight across the tops of the arms and across the back. I ended up taking the sleeve off and adding a self bias facing to finish the armholes off. I don’t know if dropping the depth back down again will alleviate these problems. Even in this sleeveless version the armholes feel snug.

Fabric Used:

Polyester georgette with animal print.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Reduced sleeve length by 0.5 inch.

0.5 inch sway back adjustment.

Raised depth of neckline slit by 1 inch (including shortening pattern piece number 2 – front band – by `1 inch).

1 inch FBA, adding in side bust dart.

I interfaced the neck band using a tricot interfacing.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I don’t know. I think on a smaller busted person this would be a great top.

Conclusion:

Disappointed but that’s the nature of the sewing beast. I will probably still wear this top. When I get over it maybe I will look at this pattern again…or just move on (more likely).

 

Ok, so next we have Jalie 3461 Eleonore pull-on jeans. First time sewn here.

Jalie 3461 Eleonore jeans and McCalls 6886 modified to breton top

Jalie 3461 Eleonore jeans and McCalls 6886 modified to breton top

This version is made in 10 oz cotton denim with 2% elastane and they fit and feel much better than the first pair. Changes made:

• Moved back pocket position down by 0.25 inches
• Shortened length of leg above knee by 1  inch
• Slimmed inner thigh down by 0.25 inch
• Raised crotch by 0.25 inch
• Reduced rise by 1 inch
• Reduced depth of waistband by 0.5 inch
• Lengthened at calf by 3 inches (I like the wrinkled ankle look)
• I cut the back elastic 1 inch shorter than the front. For the next pair I would make this more like 1.5 inches shorter.

Overall I love them. Very flattering (I think) and I have worn them all day and the denim has not bagged out at all. I have made another pair…next time!

Finally I made a top length version of McCalls 6886 using a striped ponte knit. I added 5/8 inch seam allowance below the bust (could perhaps have even added on a little more for a looser fit?), made the sleeves 3/4 length and added side slits. The neckline is finished using a chambray bias facing. Very neat.

Jalie 3461 Eleonore jeans and McCalls 6886 modified to breton top

 

Phew! Ok. So, that’s me for today. Where is this year flying away too? Have a great weekend. Until soon…

Jalie 3461 Eleonore jeans and McCalls 6886 modified to breton top

 

Jalie 3461 Eleonore Pull On Jeans: DIY Mustard Jeggings

Jalie Eleonore Pull on Jeans: DIY Mustard Jeggings worn with Grainline Archer Shirt

Hi There,

The focus of todays post is my new jeggings, made using Jalie 3461; the Eleonore Pull-On Jeans pattern. But I also want to mention that I am wearing my jeggings with a new Grainline Archer shirt, made from a checked brushed cotton. This is the third time of me making the Archer and you can see the first two versions here and here. The only thing I changed with the current version is that I added 1 inch to the length.

Jalie Eleonore Pull on Jeans: DIY Mustard Jeggings worn with Grainline Archer Shirt

Back to the jeggings. I guess you either love jeggings or hate them. I personally wear jeggings an awful lot on a day to day basis. I mean, for me they are smarter and more flattering than a legging, but more comfortable than jeans can sometimes be. Plus, I never wear my tops tucked into my waistband so I don’t mind the elasticated waistband (I must be getting old!!) I have no problem buy RTW jeggings, but when I saw the great versions of Eleonore that were popping up (like Dawn’s and Deepika’s) I ordered the pattern and used some stretch cotton twill I had in my stash to whip these up. Let’s consider these a wearable muslin.

Jalie Eleonore Pull on Jeans: DIY Mustard Jeggings worn with Grainline Archer Shirt

The fit of these jeggings is not perfect. I think on my next pair I will shorten the length of the leg above the knee (and add it back at the ankle?), slim the inner thighs down, raise the crotch slightly and possibly move the pockets down a smidge.Any other suggestions?

Jalie Eleonore Pull on Jeans: back pocket topstitching and rivets

Jalie Eleonore Pull on Jeans: inside waistband

One thing to note: I raised the waistband on these by 2 inches and they sit comfortably around my natural waist. I am 5 foot 3 so if you are making these I would say think about if you will be happy with the low rise as they come. Overall they are very comfortable but some tweaking needs to be done. Check out the review below for all the details.

Jalie Eleonore Pull on Jeans: DIY Mustard Jeggings worn with Grainline Archer Shirt

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Stretch pull-on jeans (long or cropped) with wide waistband.

• Yoke, faux fly in the front, patch pockets in the back
• Fitted through waist and hips, straight from the knee down
• Very easy to turn into skinny jeans!

Pattern Sizing:

27 sizes included in the pattern from girls through to plus size women.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes, but I made mine more of a skinny leg jegging

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes…but….minor gripe…the instructions as provided are dotted around all over the (large) pattern sheet. I know you can download the instructions but….!

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the finished product is so close to my RTW jeggings in appearance. I think with a few more fitting tweaks these will be perfect. The minor quibbles I have with this pattern are no lengthen/ shorten lines, the lack of an instruction sheet (the instructions of course are there but dotted around the pattern sheet), no pattern envelope provided and you are told to hem the jeggings before completing the waistband…hmm…not sure about that last point…risky I say.

Fabric Used:

Cotton twill with ?2%? elastane.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I cut the size according to my hip size (I didn’t size up) but I did have to ease a lot of fabric at the back on to the elastic to get the waist to fit without gaping due to the fact my waist is 2 sizes smaller than my hips. I purposefully cut the elastic shorter in the back to eliminate the gaping.

I added 2 inches to the rise at the front and back to get the waistband to hit at my natural waist.

I narrowed the leg by about 3 inches total in front and 2 inches total in back.

I removed 2 inches from the leg length.

I added additional topstitching on the pocket and inner leg seam and also added rivets.

I used the (larger) pockets from my Ginger Jeans pattern rather than the ones provided.

I turned 5/8ths inch over twice to hem.

Next time round I think I will shorten the length of the leg above the knee (and add it back at the ankle?), slim the inner thighs down, raise the crotch slightly and possibly move the pockets down a smidge.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, definitely, although it is all a question of finding the perfect fabric. Sigh. Yes, I definitely recommend.

Conclusion:

Fast to sew, convincing to look at and comfortable to wear.

Have a great weekend. Looks like we are in for another wet and windy one!

Jalie Eleonore Pull on Jeans: DIY Mustard Jeggings worn with Grainline Archer Shirt