Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt (Plus Size) 08/2014#136B: DIY Quilted Oversize Sweatshirt

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

Greeting My Friends,

Today’s post may divide opinion.

First off, a sincere thank you if you voted this blog one of Burdastyle’s Top 50 Sewing Blogs. As part of the prize for being voted in the Top 50 I have been offered a choice of 5 free Burdastyle patterns. Interestingly, this sweatshirt was not one of those free choices. No, this was a pattern I paid for myself. Controversial? Maybe if you read Mary’s article over on the Curvy Collective Blog. (Don’t worry Mary, we are still friends :-)).

So, this is Burdastyle’s zipper sweatshirt. Sweatshirts are big fashion news right now. And this one may not be everyone’s cup of tea as it is (as described) “extra long”. It is also rather oversized. But I like it (The Husband is not such a fan). And I wanted my left shoulder to be able to exposed to a breeze if I so feel like it…shoulder ventilation is very important here in Cumbria, haha

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

I made no alterations to this pattern other than a 1 inch sway back adjustment. I also added about 10cm (?) to the width of the hem band.

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

The fabric is from Minerva Crafts. It does come in other colourways. It’s interesting. It’s two layers of jersey which have been quilted together with some kind of foam inbetween the layers. Here’s a close up of the fabric and the cut edges so you can see the foam inside.

Minerva Crafts Quilted Jersey

Minerva Crafts Quilted Jersey

Minerva Crafts Quilted Jersey

Minerva Crafts Quilted Jersey

I can’t really see how you could sew this fabric without an overlocker to finish the edges, unless you were going to make something which was lined or bind the edges. But it does make a snuggly sweatshirt.

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

As usual with the BurdaStyle instructions it’s a bit hit and miss (more of a miss). You have to draft the bands for the sleeves, the hem and the neckline yourself. It is not apparent with the measurements you are told to draft whether they include seam allowances or not. I assumed not (long story on my reasoning why not). Turns out I was wrong. The measurements do not include seam allowances. I found this out after I had serged the neck band in to place. So I had to cut the first neck band off and re-sew. It all kind of worked in the end.

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014 - close up of neckband and exposed zipper for shoulder ventilation

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014 – close up of neckband and exposed zipper for shoulder ventilation

I found it best to baste the bands in to place first on my machine. Then trim out the middle layer of fabric and then serge the edges for a clean finish. Otherwise my serger struggled to cope with three layers of fabric. And I really struggled to get the cuffs to stretch enough to fit the sleeve openings. That could be due to the limited stretch of the fabric? In the end I had to gather the sleeve openings and baste to the cuffs.

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014 - close up of cuffs

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014 – close up of cuffs

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

Sewing Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Cuddle up in an extra long raglan shirt in quilted knit fabric or sweat shirting. It’s accented with an exposed zipper at one shoulder.

Pattern Sizing:

Burdastyle 46 – 52

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Burdastyle: don’t expect them to be easy to follow 🙂

The main gripe about the instructions is that it is not apparent (or I thought the wording was confusing) as to whether or not seam allowances should be added to the hem, sleeve and neck bands (which you have to draft yourself).  Turns out they should be added.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the oversized look and feel. It may not be for everyone. It is extra long and the sleeves are long but I am wearing it as I type this and they are not falling down or hindering me in any way. Nothing to dislike really.

Fabric Used:

A quilted jersey from Minerva Crafts in the UK. I found it best to baste the bands in place on my sewing machine first, then trim out the middle layer before finishing edges on my serger. I also had to gather the sleeve openings to get them to fit the sleeve bands (the fabric didn’t have enough stretch otherwise).

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I did a 1 inch sway back and added about 10 cm to the length of the hem band for a looser fit.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I probably won’t sew again. Yes. I recommend.

Conclusion:

If you want a cuddly oversized sweatshirt with an exposed zip and raglan sleeves sew this. It does what it says on the tin.

 

Oversized sweatshirts not your thing? Try the White Russian pattern from Capital Chic or McCalls6992.

 

Have a great weekend everyone…I think we are off to see Gone Girl.

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

Burdastyle Zipper Sweatshirt 08/2014

 

 

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