Simplicity 8295 and Closet Case Patterns Ginger Skinny Jeans: DIY Linen Lace Up Eyelet Tunic and Skinny Jeans
Hope you are all doing well. Today I am sharing a me-made outfit that has already had lots of wears. Neutral coloured pieces in great (breathable) fabric that can be mixed and matched with other pieces in my wardrobe are winners in my book.
Let’s start with the top: Simplicity 8295. This is a great pattern with some lovely details/ options. The only thing I would be wary of is, IMO, it is cut quite straight through the hips, so whilst its fine as a top, if I was making this again as a dress I would have to widen the hips.
The fabric is a linen/ cotton mix purchased from Fabworks. Unfortunately it looks like this particular fabric is sold out but they have lots of other linens at very reasonable prices. I just love the fabric!
Here’s a close up of the eyelet/ lacing detail. I used eyelets I already had in my stash. I couldn’t find any twill tape in a colour I was happy with so I ended up making my own lacing in self fabric. I find that in order to get eyelets that are really robust and not going to fall out you really need to experiment with your particular fabric to find out how many layers you need to support the weight of the eyelet. I interfaced scraps of the linen so it would be the same thickness as the placket and then experimented adding further layers of linen behind the eyelet to get an appropriate thickness. So behind every eyelet, inside the placket, there are extra squares of linen to take the weight of each eyelet. My other tip would be don’t make the size of the hole for the eyelet too big: better it is slightly smaller to hold the eyelet in place.
You can see my first pair of Ginger jeans here. They were the first pair of jeans I made and they looked great when I was standing up….but my gosh they were so uncomfortable when I was sitting down, and I think that was largely down to the pocket stays that I had included (cut from a firm woven cotton). As a result, I think I have worn those jeans about twice. This time around I eliminated the pocket stays and gosh, what a difference! These jeans have already been worn so much. The light colour is great for summer, they are smart enough to wear to work without looking like they’re jeans and, whilst I will probably only ever wear them with longer length tops, they are just so much more comfortable. The fit still needs some tweaking (see my notes below), but these are a huge (wearable) improvement for me. The fabric for these jeans was purchased locally to me.
Pattern Review Simplicity 8295
This tunic or dress Inspired by Project Runway features optional lace up or trim at the neckline. Make the tunic length to wear over skinny jeans or dress length for a casual event.
I made view C with the collar from view A.
6 – 22
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?
Were the instructions easy to follow?
Yes, although I used my own techniques for a neater finish.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
Love the finished garment. Love the eyelet/ lace up detail. Nothing to dislike as such, although I would say this pattern is fairly straight cut so if you are making the dress length I would say you might need to widen somewhat at the hips if you carry weight there like me 🙂
Cotton/ linen blend.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
- I did a 0.5 inch FBA
- I shortened the bust dart by about 2 inches
- Next time around I might lower the bust dart just a smidge
- 1 inch sway back adjustment, adding removed length back to hems
- Shortened sleeve length by 1.5 inches. I don’t think I will ever wear the sleeves unrolled, but if I wanted to on future versions I might add some length back again: the cuffs are actually quite narrow
- 1 inch full arm adjustment
- Cut 2 back yokes and used the burrito method for a clean finish inside
- Took 3/8ths inch seam allowance at hips
- Increased length of side slits by about 2.5 inches (making them 8 inches in total)
- Flat felled the sleeve seams so it would look neat when the sleeves are rolled up
- Took 1.25 inches for the hems
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
It’s quite a distinctive look: don’t know if I need another one right now, but never say never. Yes, I recommend.
Love the detail on this top, which elevates it somewhat. Great summer piece.
Notes on Ginger Jeans:
- Added 0.25 inches at front and back sides and 0.5 inches to waistband
- Removed pocket stays
- Scooped out front and back crotch by 0.25 inches
- Removed 3 inches from length
- Let side seams out fractionally at knees
- Next time around I need to remove some length above the knees
- Still not happy with some of the wrinkling in the inner leg: need to play around with this
- For next time I am going to raise the back pocket position up by 1 inch
- I have already made a 0.5 inch full calf adjustment on the pattern for next time, tapering back to the original width at the ankle
Hope you’re all having a great weekend. Happy sewing!
Pauline Alice Eliana Top and Butterick 6331: DIY Gauze Peasant Style Top and White Denim Boyfriend Style Jeans: Stylish Fabric
Today I am so excited to share a perfect summer outfit made using fabrics from L.A based Stylish Fabric. They got in touch with me recently and asked if I wanted to try out some of their fabrics. The fabrics in this post were provided at no cost to me, but as ever, my opinions are my own.
The blouse was made using this gorgeous cotton and rayon gauze in blush colour. This fabric is delicious to wear and was easy to sew. I was expecting it to fray like mad, but it didn’t. I overlocked all my seam allowances. One thing I would say to watch out for is that I think this fabric shrunk quite a bit in the wash (unless I wasn’t sent as much as I initally thought?) I asked for 3 yards but I think I had about 2 yards (?) to play with. So, yep, not sure why that was. But, no matter, I ended up with a beautiful blouse that I will be happy to wear in hot weather.
The jeans are made using this white denim (currently 60% off). This non-stretch denim is the perfect weight for denim jeans, and is, I would say, ever so slightly off white. It washed, pressed and sewed beautifully. I used a Schmetz jeans needle and Gutterman top stitching thread, even though you can’t of course see the details. Full details on patterns below.
- Made using Pauline Alice Eliana Dress pattern modified to top length. You can see my first version of the top hack here.
- Moved the bust dart up by 1 inch.
- Added 3/8ths inch to side seams at hip.
- Made narrower self bias tape to bind the neckline and sleeve openings.
- Made using Butterick 6331. See first version of these pants here and my floral version here.
- These white denim jeans were actually version number 2, so see my first version for details of pattern amendments. Even though I didn’t make any alterations to the pattern from version number 1, these feel very different. Amazing what changing the fabric can do. These are boyfriend style, so fairly loose fitting, but still quite slim I think.
- I essentially followed the Closet Case Ginger Jeans instructions to make these.
- Interfaced the fly.
- Omitted interfacing in the waistband.
- Used lining fabric for the pocket bags to cut down on bulk.
- Added back pockets, fly shield and topstitching.
- Extended length of waistband by about 5 inches (much better to have too much length IMO that can be shortened as required).
Thanks to Stylish Fabric for the opportunity to add some really versatile pieces to my wardrobe. Sometimes plain basics can be the most valuable thing you can make!