A couple of months back I made the Heather Blazer by Friday Pattern Company in wool suiting (that’s the brown blazer in these pictures). I wanted an oversized “dad blazer” and this pattern seemed to tick all the boxes. However, when I had finished making that first version, something felt off. It was, perhaps, too oversized (especially at the shoulders), and I truthfully I think the fabric choice was too much into “dad” territory. That fabric was from Fabworks btw.
However, I felt like this pattern deserved a second chance, and I made it again (with some modifications), this time in a linen/ recycled viscose blend (the blue blazer) from Patterns and Plains (sorry, now sold out). And I am so much happier with this second version, although I will say that I can see from these photos that in both versions the front edges don’t seem to be lying flat: anyone got any suggestions on what to do about that? Should I have taped the edges perhaps? (The blazer fronts and facings are interfaced with a fusible knit interfacing).
I am really glad I gave this blazer a second chance. I wanted a dart-less/ no princess seam front blazer and this one meets that requirement. I already have blazer patterns with princess seams etc. And they are great if you need to do any adjustments. But I specifically didn’t want anything like that on this blazer and the plus size block for this blazer is drafted a D cup so I didn’t need to do a FBA. I like the oversized look, even if it did take me two attempts to get the fit comfortable for me. Check my notes below for full details.
- Version one of this blazer was cut as a straight size 2X. I sized down by one size for version two.
- Entire separate lining pieces are provided for the (two piece) sleeves, back and side front. Also included is a pattern piece for a back stay. I have never seen a blazer pattern include separate lining pieces for sleeves and I think there is a difference in the way the outer fabric and lining sleeves are drafted possibly to accommodate a shoulder pad? Although the instructions make no mention of adding shoulder pads (but I did).
- No lengthen/ shorten lines are printed on the main body pattern pieces, although instructions are included on how to adjust those pieces. Also the bust apex is not marked.
- I shortened the body by 2 and 5/8ths inches
- I shortened the sleeve by 1 inch. I think I also shortened the sleeve lining by a further 5/8ths inch.
- I added welt pockets with flaps to both versions
- I swapped the upper and under collar over because the under collar looked bigger to me. I also cut the upper collar on the fold as a single piece.
- I added a 1 inch pleat to the back lining
- I added extra interfacing to the under collar to shape the collar stand
- I used fusible knit interfacing throughout and cut the back stay from muslin. I also extended the length of the back stay on version two so it was below the armholes.
- I stayed the shoulders using cotton tape and added shoulder pads
- I interfaced all hems
- I catch stitched the hem up on the inside
- The pattern is designed to have just one button. I added two buttons to both my versions.
- For version two I did a 0.5 inch forward shoulder adjustment and a 5/8ths inch small shoulder adjustment
- For version two I also bagged the jacket out through the hem rather than the sleeve as in version one so it looks neater when I roll my sleeves up. The pattern has you bag it out through the centre back seam I think, but as I added a pleat to my lining that wasn’t possible.
- I got my pattern printed for the first time ever and I used Fabulosew who I recommend. They print on tissue paper which means tissue fitting is possible.
Once you have the fit down this blazer comes together fairly easily and there are not that many separate pieces to cut. I wore the linen one on a recent trip to Slovenia and was very happy with it. I will keep the wool suiting one in my wardrobe for now and see if it gets worn once autumn comes around. Long time readers will know sewing outer wear is something that I love to do and I enjoyed making both of these.
See you soon!