Hi Everyone,
Squeezing in the final post of the year to share my latest completed make of 2018: a second version of Butterick 6169, this time made in a Linton tweed. You may recall the first version that I made more than 3 years ago (already?!) in a black leather. That version has been such a staple in my wardrobe and I love to wear it. Hopefully this version will also be a piece that has a strong place in my me-made wardrobe.
This version is fully interfaced using a fusible stitched reinforced interfacing. I block fused the Linton tweed to the interfacing before cutting out the pattern pieces in a single layer to facilitate keeping the pattern balanced across the jacket. To avoid going mental with the pattern matching add a bit of interest I cut some parts of the jacket on the bias. The front centre panels, the side back panels and the under sleeves are all cut on the bias. I think it worked pretty well.
In terms of adding internal structure to the jacket, unlike the first version I omitted the shoulder pads, sleeve heads and shoulder reinforcements. I wanted a softer look. But I did add a back stay and used twill tape to stay the shoulders and the back neckline.
The original version has in-seam welt pockets which are rather small and not that ideal in terms of positioning either. In this version I added exposed zipper welt pockets. I used this tutorial from the Pattern Review website, which is very good. The only thing I did differently to the tutorial was to use silk organza to stabilise my openings. I like the sleek look of these pockets, and also the way it draws the eye down to my waist.
Some other details: I added snaps to the collar points to hold the collar back in place. I can still wear the jacket fully closed if I want, but I rather like the look of the collar held back in place. The key to installing snaps like is to build the layers up inside to hold the snaps firmly in place. I also added a hanging chain.
Here are some shots on the dressform. The fabric is red white and blue, in case you’re wondering, with a hint of black as well I think. The lining is an acetate satin lining from Fabworks. It feels very luxurious. I chose to fully bag my lining out on the machine.
In conclusion, I am so impressed with how this jacket turned out. It feels quite luxurious and special to wear. I greatly admire all those sewists who make classic French jackets using Linton tweeds (or equivalent – Julie Starr you are one!), but the thought of all that hand sewing and spending 100 hours making a jacket….I am still not there! So my final thought is don’t be intimidated or think using faster techniques is not acceptable: it totally is. Find the method that works for you, and brings you the most enjoyment and enjoy the process, however long you chose to take.
Thank you all so much for following along with me this year, for all your comments, likes, shares, questions, answers and opportunities. Wishing you health, happiness, peace, prosperity and successful sewing in the new year. I don’t know if I will be doing a round up post for the year (there is still time!) but you can always catch a snapshot of what I make through the year via the “Sewing by Year” tab at the top of this blog.
Until soon.
sewmanju 