Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer: DIY Oversized Blazers in Wool Suiting and Linen Blend

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

Hey Everyone,

A couple of months back I made the Heather Blazer by Friday Pattern Company in wool suiting (that’s the brown blazer in these pictures). I wanted an oversized “dad blazer” and this pattern seemed to tick all the boxes. However, when I had finished making that first version, something felt off. It was, perhaps, too oversized (especially at the shoulders), and I truthfully I think the fabric choice was too much into “dad” territory. That fabric was from Fabworks btw.

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

However, I felt like this pattern deserved a second chance, and I made it again (with some modifications), this time in a linen/ recycled viscose blend (the blue blazer) from Patterns and Plains (sorry, now sold out). And I am so much happier with this second version, although I will say that I can see from these photos that in both versions the front edges don’t seem to be lying flat: anyone got any suggestions on what to do about that? Should I have taped the edges perhaps? (The blazer fronts and facings are interfaced with a fusible knit interfacing).

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

I am really glad I gave this blazer a second chance. I wanted a dart-less/ no princess seam front blazer and this one meets that requirement. I already have blazer patterns with princess seams etc. And they are great if you need to do any adjustments. But I specifically didn’t want anything like that on this blazer and the plus size block for this blazer is drafted a D cup so I didn’t need to do a FBA. I like the oversized look, even if it did take me two attempts to get the fit comfortable for me. Check my notes below for full details.

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

Fitting Notes

• Version one of this blazer was cut as a straight size 2X. I sized down by one size for version two.
• Entire separate lining pieces are provided for the (two piece) sleeves, back and side front. Also included is a pattern piece for a back stay. I have never seen a blazer pattern include separate lining pieces for sleeves and I think there is a difference in the way the outer fabric and lining sleeves are drafted possibly to accommodate a shoulder pad? Although the instructions make no mention of adding shoulder pads (but I did).
• No lengthen/ shorten lines are printed on the main body pattern pieces, although instructions are included on how to adjust those pieces. Also the bust apex is not marked.
• I shortened the body by 2 and 5/8ths inches
• I shortened the sleeve by 1 inch. I think I also shortened the sleeve lining by a further 5/8ths inch.
• I added welt pockets with flaps to both versions
• I swapped the upper and under collar over because the under collar looked bigger to me. I also cut the upper collar on the fold as a single piece.
• I added a 1 inch pleat to the back lining
• I added extra interfacing to the under collar to shape the collar stand
• I used fusible knit interfacing throughout and cut the back stay from muslin. I also extended the length of the back stay on version two so it was below the armholes.
• I stayed the shoulders using cotton tape and added shoulder pads
• I interfaced all hems
• I catch stitched the hem up on the inside
• The pattern is designed to have just one button. I added two buttons to both my versions.
• For version two I did a 0.5 inch forward shoulder adjustment and a 5/8ths inch small shoulder adjustment
• For version two I also bagged the jacket out through the hem rather than the sleeve as in version one so it looks neater when I roll my sleeves up. The pattern has you bag it out through the centre back seam I think, but as I added a pleat to my lining that wasn’t possible.
• I got my pattern printed for the first time ever and I used Fabulosew who I recommend. They print on tissue paper which means tissue fitting is possible.

Once you have the fit down this blazer comes together fairly easily and there are not that many separate pieces to cut. I wore the linen one on a recent trip to Slovenia and was very happy with it. I will keep the wool suiting one in my wardrobe for now and see if it gets worn once autumn comes around. Long time readers will know sewing outer wear is something that I love to do and I enjoyed making both of these.

See you soon!

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

Friday Pattern Company Heather Blazer

Simplicity 9326 modified: DIY Floral Square Neck Midi Dress

Simplicity 9326 modified

Hey Everyone,

Here’s some fitting/ pattern modification notes on Simplicity 9326 that I recently made. The main thing to note is that I added sleeves to this sleeveless bodice and changed up the skirt. Details below. The fabric is a floral viscose jacquard from Selvedge and Bolts.

Simplicity 9326 modified

Simplicity 9326 modified

Simplicity 9326 modified

Fitting Notes

• I cut a size 18 for the bodice and graded out at the waist
• I did a 1 inch FBA
• I did a 5/8ths inch forward shoulder adjustment
• I did a 0.5 inch sway back adjustment
• I did initially also add a little to the back/ side back and side seam allowances but ended up removing that from the side seams
• I added puffed sleeves using sleeves from McCalls 7811 (modified to be puffed sleeves), and added 8 rows of shirring to the bottom of the sleeves
• I added a gathered skirt from McCalls 7974 but shortened the length of the skirt by 8 inches and added a ruffle to the bottom
• I added bra strap carriers to the inside to keep the shoulders secure

Simplicity 9326 modified

Overall this is a well drafted pattern. I’ve been looking for a bra friendly square neck dress pattern and I think this is pretty decent. I did make significant modifications to get the look I wanted but I’m happy with what I got.

See you soon!

Simplicity 9326 modified

Named Clothing Reeta Shirt Dress: DIY Blue Animal Print Shirt Dress

Named Clothing Reeta Shirt Dress

Hey Everyone,

Inspite of using the Named Clothing Reeta Shirt Dress to make tops three times (see here, here and here), I’ve never actually made the dress version. I finally bit the bullet and made it as intended (albeit with the addition of long cuffed sleeves) using some viscose crepe purchased from eBay. Conclusion: love it, and it’s already been worn several times.

Named Clothing Reeta Shirt Dress

Named Clothing Reeta Shirt Dress

Named Clothing Reeta Shirt Dress

This is such an easy to wear dress and I love the adjustable waist. I definitely want to make another version, maybe this time with short sleeves.

Named Clothing Reeta Shirt Dress

Named Clothing Reeta Shirt Dress

Pattern Adjustments

• This is a size 18 grading out at the waist/ hips
• I did a 1 inch FBA
• I had previously done a 1 inch full bicep adjustment
• I added a 1 inch pleat to the back (had also done that on a previous version)
• I removed 7 inches from the length
• I made the height of the side vents 10 inches
• I added long sleeves with vents and cuffs
• I took 2 inches to hem.

Like I say, love this pattern, especially in this drapey viscose crepe (one of my favourite fabrics to sew and wear). And the blue animal print feels fresh and fun.

Back soon!

Named Clothing Reeta Shirt Dress

Closet Core Elodie Wrap Dress: DIY Wrap Dress with Dolman Style Sleeves

Closet Core Elodie Wrap Dress

Hi Everyone,

Today’s post features gifted items. Both the fabric and pattern were gifted to me by Sew Essential. If you haven’t come across Sew Essential please do check them out. They are a UK based company that sells not just sewing patterns and fabric, but also a wide range of haberdashery products as well as sewing machines.

Closet Core Elodie Wrap Dress

I have had my eye on the Closet Core Elodie wrap dress for a while so it was great to have the opportunity to try this pattern out. The fabric I selected is this abstract printed polyester which has great drape and requires zero pressing which means this dress is perfect for travelling and easy care. If you do press, use a medium heat. I do believe that this particular print is also shortly going to be available on a viscose base if that’s your thing. Be warned: this pattern is somewhat of a fabric hog, although you can make the skirt/ sleeves shorter.

Closet Core Elodie Wrap Dress

Closet Core Elodie Wrap Dress

Check my pattern notes below, but overall this is a well drafted pattern. The neckline (at least for me) is stable and doesn’t gape, and the skirt affords a good amount of coverage. The only thing I would highlight is that I didn’t like the instruction to hem the centre front of the skirt pieces. My first attempt looked horribly wavy. I unpicked and drafted a facing to finish that area.

Closet Core Elodie Wrap Dress

Pattern Fitting Notes

• I cut a size 18 for the bodice, grading out a size for the waist/ hips. I made view B.
• My pattern is from the standard block, but a plus size block is also available with sizes running from 14 – 32 (PDF only). I believe the standard block is drafted for a B cup.
• I did a 1 inch FBA and incorporated the dart that arose into the release pleats at the waist. This meant I also had to adjust the waistband and bodice facing to match. I also had to add extra width to the skirt pieces so that matched the bodice.
• I did a 0.5 inch forward shoulder adjustment.
• I removed 2 inches off the the length of the View B skirt.
• I used 5/8ths inch hem for the sleeves.

Thanks to Sew Essential for the opportunity to work with them. This is a great dress moving into Spring.

Until soon.

Closet Core Elodie Wrap Dress

McCalls 8008: DIY Viscose Lawn Printed Blouse

Mccalls 8008

Hey Everyone,

I’m back sharing a blouse I made using McCalls 8008. This is a bit of a sleeper pattern: it comes with a pattern for overalls/ dungarees/ rompers, but I haven’t seen that many versions of either in the sewing community. I made the blouse and I really like it. But then it’s got ruffles, so what did you expect, lol.

Mccalls 8008

Mccalls 8008

The fabric is a gorgeous ex designer viscose lawn that I purchased from Simply Fabrics Brixton. At the time of writing there were 2 metres left of this fabric on the website. It’s called Mona. I know you perhaps can’t tell, but it has small lame fil coupe accents woven into the fabric. Subtle but glamorous.

Mccalls 8008

Mccalls 8008

Pattern Alterations

• This is view A in a size 18. I did grade out at the hem but this was unnecessary. As drafted I found the length of this blouse to be quite long on me. Removing the extra length (maybe 2 or 3 inches?) meant it wasn’t hitting me at my widest point and fitted better.
• I did a 0.5 inch FBA.
• I removed 3 inches from the length of the sleeves.
• I omitted the sleeve tucks and cuffs and instead gathered the sleeve openings to a band.
• I had to add a centre back seam to the collar pieces due to fabric limitations.
• I used the double yoke burrito method for a clean and stable finish inside.
• For next time I would probably extend that front placket to be full length.

I think this is a cute blouse with lots of hacking potential. See you soon.

Mccalls 8008

Butterick 6385: DIY Midi Khaki Quilted Coat

Butterick 6385 in pre-quilted fabric

Hi Readers,

In an attempt to get up to date with blogging, here goes trying to write and post a blog post from my phone for the first time! (I’m using the WordPress app for anyone interested).

Butterick 6385 in pre-quilted fabric

Butterick 6385 in pre-quilted fabric

Butterick 6385 in pre-quilted fabric

I’ve made this pattern once before (see here), and check below for my modifications to this version. The fabric for this version is a cosy pre-quilted fabric I purchased from eBay. It claims to be waterproof…I would say maybe shower proof. It’s a microfibre fabric quilted to a 135g polyester wadding. I wore this coat for a weekend away last week (sunny but cold Lancaster/ Morecambe Bay – see below for photographic evidence), and it was perfect. Lightweight but warm.

Butterick 6385 in pre-quilted fabric

Butterick 6385 in pre-quilted fabric

Pattern Modifications

Check my first version for previous modifications

• Moved the Dior dart down by 0.75 inches and top stitched it.
• Did a 0.5 inch sway back adjustment.
• Cut the inner yoke on the cross grain due to fabric limitations.
• Omitted all interfacing/ internal tailoring.
• Took 3/8ths inch seam allowance for side seams.
• Added shoulder pads.
• Topstitched all seams and front edges and hems.
• Added snap closures.
• Bagged the lining out.
• Added fleece to pocket linings.
• For next time: possibly do a forward shoulder adjustment.

Overall, very happy with how this turned out. Didn’t seem so bad doing this on my phone, hopefully get caught up soon. Bye for now!

Butterick 6385 in pre-quilted fabric

New Look K6471: DIY Tie Neck Blouse

New Look K6471 tie neck blouse

Hello Everyone,

Today I am sharing details of a blouse that I made using a New Look pattern. I just had a look, and I think the last New Look pattern I made was back in 2018. I no longer tend to even consider New Look releases because I find the sizing to be very non-inclusive. That being said, this blouse runs to a UK Size 22, bust measurement 44 inches. Still not very inclusive but was ok for me with minimal alterations.

New Look K6471 tie neck blouse

The fabric is a denim tencel that I purchased some time ago from Just Sew Penrith. This blouse would work best in fabrics with drape. This tencel has plenty of drape but is easy to care for and the denim look keeps things casual.

New Look K6471 tie neck blouse

Overall, I liked how this came together. It’s well drafted and easy to wear. See below for details of pattern alterations.

New Look K6471 tie neck blouse

Pattern Alterations

• This is view A, size 18. I did grade out at the hips, but this probably wasn’t necessary after I removed 2.5 inches of length from the body. When the top was longer it was hitting at my widest point.
• I did a 5/8ths inch FBA which brought in a bust dart.
• I added 0.5 inches at the side seams at the hips but see above – probably wasn’t necessary once I shortened the blouse.
• I cut the largest size neck tie and added 5 inches of extra length at either end.
• I added a hook and eye at the shoulder opening under the tie. The blouse sits better with the hook and eye holding the shoulder opening closed.

Until soon!

New Look K6471 tie neck blouse

Helen’s Closet Dressing Robe and True Bias Ogden Cami: DIY Sleepset

Helen’s Closet Dressing Robe worn with a modified True Bias Ogden Cami

Hey Everyone,

Today I am sharing details of a completely unseasonal sleep set, but one which I am looking forward to wearing when the weather improves. To make this set I used the Helen’s Closet Dressing Robe pattern (pattern no longer available for sale), and the True Bias Ogden Cami, which I have made before (see here for details). The printed fabric is a heavy weight viscose that was in my stash, and the contrast bands were left over scraps from my Hannah dress. I think they work together pretty well.

Helen’s Closet Dressing Robe worn with a modified True Bias Ogden Cami

Helen’s Closet Dressing Robe worn with a modified True Bias Ogden Cami

The Robe has been on my to-sew list for ages. I am very pleased with the outcome but honest opinion: I think there are other robe patterns out there which might be easier to sew. I made the front band as per the instructions to get that squared off corner look, but I’m not sure it’s entirely worth it. If I was making this again I would probably just lengthen the front band to extend all the way down to the hem. I also encountered some issues with the printing of the pattern; things didn’t align and I am just glad the pattern was fairly basic because I had to do some fudging to get things to work. But I do like the finished robe, and the inner ties keep everything secure.

Helen’s Closet Dressing Robe worn with a modified True Bias Ogden Cami

Helen’s Closet Dressing Robe worn with a modified True Bias Ogden Cami

The slip dress underneath is simply a lengthened Ogden Cami. I added 1 inch to the length from my previous versions so check my original blog post for full details of adjustments that I have made to this pattern.

Modified True Bias Ogden Cami

Dressing Robe Fit Details

• This is cut at view B. I wish I had kept it at view A. A smidge longer might have been nicer, but it’s still perfectly wearable.
• From memory I think maybe I cut the second largest size and graded out over the hips? I didn’t want to have to fiddle with an FBA and I figured just going over sized for a robe would be fine.
• I omitted the pockets.
• I positioned the waist ties 10 cm down from the arm hole seam. If I was making again I think I would make thread chains or belt loops rather than how the pattern has you do it.
• I haven’t sewn the belt in place. I wish I had sewn the belt pieces together before constructing, rather than how the instructions tell you to do it.
• I sewed the front band using the “concealed method”, but sewed from the wrong side first, and then topstitched closed from the right side. Next time I would probably just extend that front band all the way down to the hem.

See you all soon!

Helen’s Closet Dressing Robe worn with a modified True Bias Ogden Cami

McCalls 8040 and Simplicity 8389: DIY Velvet Puff Sleeved Top and Sequin Jogger Bottoms – Festive Dressing Edition

Simplicity 8389 sequin joggers

Hi Everyone,

Hope you all enjoyed Christmas, if you celebrate. Here’s a quick post to share the last two makes of the year. Is there anything more festive than velvet and sequins? I don’t think so. Let’s dive straight in.

Simplicity 8389 sequin joggers

Simplicity 8389 sequin joggers

The first item in today’s post is a pair of sequin joggers that I made in the week leading up to Christmas, and which I wore on Christmas day as shown in these photographs. The black sequin fabric (sorry, hard to photograph), has been in my stash for a few years, and I had actually tried to de-stash it with no success. It felt like a challenge to transform it into something that suits my current style but I think I succeeded. I used Simplicity 8389 (modified) to make these pull on sequin jogger bottoms. See my last version of these pants here and the modifications I have made to the pattern (I have made this pattern several times now so search my blog using the pattern number to see all iterations).

Simplicity 8389 sequin joggers

Simplicity 8389 sequin joggers – lining

Some things that you need to know:

• I did not remove any sequins from seam allowances and paid the price with three broken needles. I found switching to a size 100 denim needle helped a lot. It was mainly sewing over intersecting seam allowances which caused issues.
• I fully lined the joggers using a knit lining from my stash. I attached the ankle cuffs (heavy weight ribbing from stash) to the sequin leg openings, then sewed the lining over the cuffs and pulled the lining up inside the joggers and basted the lining to the sequin outer before attaching the waistband. This way everything was enclosed with no sequins next to my skin.
• When attaching the waistband, I sewed the waistband to the inside first, then brought it to the outside and top stitched it closed. The waistband has a drawstring to secure.

Fitting Notes

• See previous versions for full details of pattern alterations. No adjustments made to this version other than to remove about 1.5 inches from the rise to accommodate the waistband. I also eliminated the pockets to cut down on bulk. I attached a waistband with drawstring closure.

Next up, a cotton velvet top made using McCalls 8040. I have used the bodice and sleeves from this pattern on a couple of dresses, but you can read about the main alterations I made to this pattern here. I didn’t make any other alterations to this version. The cotton velvet was purchased from Simply Fabrics, and appears to still be in stock. I pre-washed my fabric with no issues. It sewed and pressed well. It holds the structure of the sleeves beautifully.

McCalls 8040 in cotton velvet

McCalls 8040 in cotton velvet

McCalls 8040 in cotton velvet

I originally had plans to make a Vampire’s wife inspired midi dress with a pleated trim. I had cut out all the pieces and started sewing it and after the initial try on I just wasn’t feeling it. Right now, I don’t have any formal or even semi-formal occasions to wear such a dress and I decided a top would be easier to wear. So I salvaged what I could and ended up with this top. C’est la vie.

McCalls 8040 in cotton velvet

McCalls 8040 in cotton velvet

I actually love both pieces. The joggers feel very glam but comfortable. And the top is a good one because it’s dressy but also warm, and I do like the neckline and the sleeves.

So that’s it from me for this year. Thank you dear Readers for your support, likes, comments and advice. Here’s hoping 2022 brings us all prosperity, peace, happiness and much creative joy.

See you soon!

Simplicity 8389 sequin joggers

McCalls 8040 in cotton velvet

My Favourite Things Cardigan No. 7 with OOP Vogue 8836: DIY Hand Knitted Cardigan and Wide leg Wool Trousers

Cardigan No. 7 worn with Vogue 8836 trousers

Hey Everyone,

Today I am sharing my latest completed knitted project, together with a remake of a pattern I last made about 18 months ago. Let’s start with the cardigan first, shall we?

Cardigan No. 7

The pattern I used was Cardigan No. 7 by My Favourite Things (a Danish pattern company). This is my first time working with this pattern company and whilst there were a few challenges, now I through it, I am absolutely in love with the finished garment. This is a raglan sleeved cardigan which is worked top down on circular needles in stocking stitch, with ribbing at the edges. The fit is described as “classic, snug and designed to reach the hip bones. The sleeves are slightly cropped and full, adding a feminine touch”. More on the sleeves in a moment. I would say this pattern is suitable for an experienced beginner.

Cardigan No. 7 worn with Vogue 8836 trousers

I used a strand of Drops Air (alpaca, polyamide, wool) in shade 29/ old pink , held together with a strand of Drops Kid Silk (mohair. silk) in shade 12/ beige. I have worked with the Drops Air before and both yarns were easy to knit. The addition of the silk mohair takes the finished garment up a notch: it feels very soft, snuggly and silky. Feels wonderfully warm yet light to wear. My buttons are olive wood buttons I picked up on eBay.

Cardigan No. 7 worn with Vogue 8836 trousers

Cardigan fitting notes:

• I knitted the size XL and it’s pretty much a perfect fit. I was worried it wouldn’t fasten over the tummy/ high hip area, but after blocking it was fine. I am just wearing it unbuttoned in these photographs. This pattern goes up to a size XXL (48.75 inches finished cardigan circumference).
• The main issue I had with the pattern was that I just couldn’t understand the instructions to reduce the number of stitches once you had finished knitting the body, before starting the ribbing. I had to do lots of maths to work out how to do this evenly for my size: the given instructions, to me, just didn’t seem to work. Anyway, I got there in the end.
• I knit the sleeves one inch shorter than the pattern and I thought they were the perfect length. Then I blocked the garment (full wet blocking), after which the sleeves had grown by about 1.5 inches. I didn’t like how they looked. So I chopped the ribbing off, ripped back the yarn so the sleeve was 1.5 inches shorter, picked the stitches back up and re-knit the ribbing. Much better. But if I make this again in this yarn I need to watch the sleeve length.
• The thing I was dreading the most about this garment was the button bands. Well, they turned out to be much easier than I thought. As did the buttonholes. And the collar was easy after the button bands. BUT! What I realised is that the number of stitches you are told to pick up and knit along the front edges of the cardigan are a guide. For my size I was instructed to pick up 87 stitches along the front edges. I only picked up 77 stitches. Also, rather than the instructed “pick up 4 stitches for every 5 stitches”, I picked up 3 stitches for every 4 stitches. I think that is a more common formula for picking up and knitting button bands.
• The above changes to the number of stitches I picked up along the front bands also meant I had to re-space my buttonholes. Rather than knitting 12 stitches between each buttonhole, I only knitted 10 stitches.
• All ribbed edges were bound off using an Italian bind off, and I made sure to tighten the edges as I went to ensure my edges lay flat.

Cardigan No. 7 worn with Vogue 8836 trousers

I love the finished cardigan. Whilst I was making it I wasn’t sure, but I am very proud of myself for finishing it. I could see me making it again in a different colour. I also love that it is not too oversized.

Next, a quick mention of the trousers, which I also love. The pattern is one I have made before. See my first pair here. Something was off with that first pair, I couldn’t put my finger on it. Then I decided it was the width of the legs. So for this pair I removed a lot of width (I have also gone back and taken some width out of that first pair). I am so much happier with this pair! They are made from a superfine wool twill, purchased from Fabworks and still in stock. I pre-washed the fabric and they sewed and pressed well (use a press cloth though). Very comfortable to wear.

Cardigan No. 7 worn with Vogue 8836 trousers

I did bind the inner waistband using some bias binding, and added a nice deep (interfaced) facing to finish the trouser hems.

Vogue 8836 trousers – bias bound waistband detail

Vogue 8836 trousers – hem facing

Vogue 8836 Fitting Notes

(Check my first pair for previous fitting notes).

• Removed a total of 6 inches width from leg openings below the knee. I basically took 1.5 inches from all the inner/ outer seams front and back.
• I deepened the pockets by 3 inches. I should have added a pocket extension, but forgot so had to take a smaller seam allowance from the waist down to the bottom of the pockets. I need to correct this on any future pairs.

Overall: very happy with the trousers. They have already had a couple of outings. Lightweight but still warm. Slouchy bit still a little bit tailored.

See you soon with more winter clothing!

Cardigan No. 7 worn with Vogue 8836 trousers