Simplicity 9326 modified: DIY Floral Square Neck Midi Dress

Simplicity 9326 modified

Hey Everyone,

Here’s some fitting/ pattern modification notes on Simplicity 9326 that I recently made. The main thing to note is that I added sleeves to this sleeveless bodice and changed up the skirt. Details below. The fabric is a floral viscose jacquard from Selvedge and Bolts.

Simplicity 9326 modified
Simplicity 9326 modified
Simplicity 9326 modified

Fitting Notes

  • I cut a size 18 for the bodice and graded out at the waist
  • I did a 1 inch FBA
  • I did a 5/8ths inch forward shoulder adjustment
  • I did a 0.5 inch sway back adjustment
  • I did initially also add a little to the back/ side back and side seam allowances but ended up removing that from the side seams
  • I added puffed sleeves using sleeves from McCalls 7811 (modified to be puffed sleeves), and added 8 rows of shirring to the bottom of the sleeves
  • I added a gathered skirt from McCalls 7974 but shortened the length of the skirt by 8 inches and added a ruffle to the bottom
  • I added bra strap carriers to the inside to keep the shoulders secure
Simplicity 9326 modified

Overall this is a well drafted pattern. I’ve been looking for a bra friendly square neck dress pattern and I think this is pretty decent. I did make significant modifications to get the look I wanted but I’m happy with what I got.

See you soon!

Simplicity 9326 modified

McCalls 7948: DIY Snake Print Tiered Dress

McCalls 7948 snake print tiered dress

Hi Everyone!

Today I am sharing a dress which I think will split opinion. This is McCalls 7984, made in a snake print viscose. Before we go any further let me say that I know my waist is my narrowest point, and I do like to wear things which emphasize my waist, or draw attention to it. But from time to time I like to try different styles, and, although this dress is not my husbands favourite (“looks like maternity wear”), nor my daughters (“looks like a nightie”), I like it. Here you can see I have chosen to wear it layered over a merino wool polo neck and opaques and booties, but I think this dress will actually be amazing in summer with fresh white trainers or sandals.

McCalls 7948 snake print tiered dress

The pattern itself is very good. I did do a FBA and as ever you can check out my full pattern review below. One thing to note, I haven’t seen too many of this pattern made up, but one that I did spot didn’t seem to have that much in the way of fullness through the tiered sections. I did add extra width into my tiers to account for the FBA that I did (see below for details). I don’t know if I was making this again if I might take a little of the fullness out, but I think it’s just that perfect combo of comfort and ease.

McCalls 7948 snake print tiered dress
McCalls 7948 snake print tiered dress

There is a lot of gathering in this dress, and I think fabric selection is really key here to get the look you want. I think in this viscose the dress just moves and falls beautifully, but making it in a cotton or something with more body would change the look completely. I have seen a version of this dress made in baby cord and also in a (wool?) plaid and both looked great.

McCalls 7948 snake print tiered dress

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Dresses have back opening with thread loop and eye, and sleeve variations. A, B: Side pockets and pleated skirt. C, D: Gathered skirt with ruffle. D: Flat lace trim.

I made view D but modified the sleeve length.

Pattern Sizing:

6 – 22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the tiers (ruffles), ease of wear and comfort. I think this style of dress is actually very on trend at the moment. It’s a great dress to have on hand for summer but I think it works all year round.

Fabric Used:

A snake print viscose.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

  • I cut a size 18 through the bust, shoulders and arms and graded out over the waist and hips. The grading out was probably completely unnecessary.
  • I did a 1 inch FBA and left the bust dart in place, but left the waist darts unsewn.
  • As a result of the above FBA alteration, and leaving the waist darts unsewn, I added 2 inches to the front of skirt pieces (again, probably completely unnecessary), and this resulted in an additional 4 inches of width being added to the front upper skirt and an additional 8 inches of width being added to the lower ruffles (I just cut 2 of the 3 ruffles with the extra width). I have not seen that many versions of this dress made up, but I think as designed it maybe doesn’t have as much fullness as mine. If I made this dress again I might think about taking some of the extra fullness out, but it works fine in this viscose fabric.
  • I did a 1 inch full arm adjustment.
  • I lengthened the sleeves by 10 inches and finished the openings with a casing and narrow elastic.
  • I omitted the pockets.
  • I ended up shortening the length by 2 inches.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes I might make again. Yes, I recommend.

Conclusion:

Very easy to wear and definitely one of the most comfortable dresses I now own.

Until soon!

McCalls 7948 snake print tiered dress

New Look 6123: tweed sheath dress

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New Look 6123 Grey wool mix tweed sheath dress with side flounce

New Look 6123 is, IMO,  a pattern you have to have in your stash readers. Why? Because it is essentially two completely different dresses in a single envelope. Two patterns for the price of one, so to speak. Have a look at the line drawings:

New Look 6123 line drawings

New Look 6123 line drawings

Do you see that there are two completely different bodice variations and two completely different skirt variations, not to mention the sleeve variations and the side skirt flounce? Whoooweee!

I chose to  make the bodice with flange (snigger snigger for those British readers who know who Keith Lemon is) sleeves from view D, with the skirt from view A/C and the flounce from view B/D in a grey wool mix tweed fabric.

The dress I made is essentially a classic sheath dress. Although I do love the look of a sheath dress, I rarely buy them RTW because of the problems I have in getting them to fit. If they fit on the hips they will be too big on the bust. If the fit on the bust, they are too tight on the hips. You all know what I am saying. Then you need pants reinforced with steel girders to suck you in when you get the dress on. So making this dress (my first sheath) was quite….empowering….because I got to make a sheath that fits ME. My usual size on top, grading out two sizes bigger on the hips.

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New Look 6123 Grey wool mix tweed sheath dress with side flounce

Still being very much on a learning curve in terms of my sewing education, there were a few tutorials out there which I found invaluable in making this dress:

1. I made a full tummy adjustment. I know it just doesn’t sound terribly flattering, but sometimes you just have that little bit of a rounded tummy. I followed a combination of the tutorial on coletterie and also the Singer method, which I found on this blog.

2. In addition to the above, I read that having front darts is not the most flattering for a rounded tummy, so I converted the front darts to ease, using this tutorial on Frabjous Couture’s blog. It worked out pretty good for me, because the wool mix tweed I was working with lent itself well to being steamed.

3. I used this tutorial  by Sewing Divas to learn how to hem by hand and I am very pleased with the results.

New Look 6123 side flounce

New Look 6123 side flounce

New Look 6123 flange sleeves - don't know if they stick out a little too much. Husband muttered something about star trek when I tried the dress on.

New Look 6123 flange sleeves – don’t know if they stick out a little too much. Husband muttered something about star trek when I tried the dress on.

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New Look 6123 side flounce/ back view.

Here’s my review of the pattern:

Pattern Description:

Misses’ dress with sleeve and bodice variations including flattering drape and ruffle detail. I made the bodice with flange sleeves from view D, with the skirt from view A/C and the flounce from view B/D.

Pattern Sizing:

8 – 18

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes, think so.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes, I think on the whole they were, although I didn’t follow them totally as I did a full tummy adjustment, converted the darts to ease and also fully lined the dress (the pattern is for an unlined dress).

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the fact there are potentially 2 different dresses in this envelope. I like the all the variations in the envelope. I think it is a very flexible pattern. Nothing I didn’t like about it.

Fabric Used:

Wool mix tweed with acetate lining.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I made a fully tummy adjustment, converted the front darts to ease and fully lined the dress. I also lengthened the dress by 2 inches.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I might well be tempted to sew one of the other variations, yes, and yes, I would definitely recommend to others.

Conclusion:

Very pleased with my first sheath dress. It’s warm, comfortable, wearable and washable. What’s not to like?

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New Look 6123 Grey wool mix tweed sheath dress with side flounce

Happy christmas!