McCalls 6694 dress: now you see it, now you don’t.

McCalls 6694: and now you don't (the ruffle, I mean)
McCalls 6694: Now you see it....

McCalls 6694: Now you see it….

McCalls 6694: and now you don't (the ruffle, I mean)

McCalls 6694: and now you don’t (the ruffle, I mean)

Ahhh….McCalls 6694. A relatively simple, casual dress. But, as Sarah from Goodbye Valentino wrote in her most recent post, don’t confuse casual with easy.

After years of studying for a PhD and a career in the pharmaceutical industry I gave up my career a year ago to be a stay at home mum. I don’t regret spending the time with my little girl. She will be going off to school in September, so I may go back to work then. But in the mean time my wardrobe requirements have changed somewhat. I used to wear a lot of tailored dresses and smart clothes. Now I still want to look nice, but I just don’t have the need for formal tailored clothing. So I am trying to sew a smart casual wardrobe. Easier said than done. 

Enter McCalls 6694. Looking at the photos, I actually think the style is a lot like the Simplicity dress I did back in September. Eeek, I must have a thing for wrap bodice dresses with ruffles on the bottom! (No more!) The difference is that McCalls 6694 is made from cotton jersey. A very soft, lightweight cotton jersey, which as you can imagine was not all that easy to work with.

I mentioned a few posts back that for mothers day Phil was kind enough to buy me a serger. I love it! Revolutionary! I went ahead and purchased a gathering attachment especially for this project. Here’s a picture of the scary looking attachment:

The gathering attachment screwed on to my Janome overlocker.

The gathering attachment screwed on to my Janome overlocker.

It might be scary looking, but let me tell you that it produces beautiful, even, professional gathers. BUT, you must have double the quantity (pretty much exactly) of the fabric to be gathered in relation to the fabric to which it is going to be attached. Here’s the finished gathers from the inside:

Inside of gathers made on overlocker using my gathering attachment

Inside of gathers made on overlocker using my gathering attachment

So, anyway, the problem is that this dress is a fabric hungry monster! It looooves to gobble up fabric, because, of course, you are supposed to cut 6 pieces of fabric for the ruffles on the bias, as well as the two back pieces on the bias (which, incidentally, I didn’t bother doing – see below). So, I didn’t have quite enough fabric to get a decent set of gathers for the upper ruffle. But, just for your kind information, I basted the upper ruffle on and you all get to see kind of what it would look like with and without the ruffle. I took the ruffle off in the end because it just looked terrible on my backside without enough ruffle in it. Also, the pattern has you attach the ruffles with a raw finish to the skirt portion of the dress. I was able to attach the lower ruffle using the gathering attachment. The upper ruffle would have been sewn on, as basted, with a raw heading.

McCalls 6694: now you see it....

McCalls 6694: now you see it….

McCalls 6694: now you don't see it.

McCalls 6694: now you don’t see it.

What do you think? Did I make the right decision taking the ruffle off?  

McCalls 6694: jeez. Is my bum really that big? That's a rhetorical question BTW!!

McCalls 6694: jeez. Is my bum really that big? That’s a rhetorical question BTW!!

And don’t even ask me about the stripe matching on this dress. There isn’t any. Except for the centre back, which as I mentioned above, I didn’t cut on the bias. I feel there is no need if you are making this from a stretch fabric.  Basically, going for diagonal striped jersey was a bit of a bad choice for this dress. A straight striped jersey would be much better!

 To conclude, I love the feel and movement of the jersey fabric. It’s so light and the ruffle at the bottom moves beautifully. I would definitely advise going down a size (I did). The neck is wide. I used cotton tape to stabilise the (bias cut) front edges and I know it looks like it is hanging precariously from my shoulders…but it doesn’t gape. I also put tape in at the shoulders. The armholes are very low, and I hope that after a wash the “sleeves” won’t stick up as much (due to the bias binding facing). IF I ever made this again I might make the armholes smaller.

Here’s my pattern review.

Pattern Description:

Pullover dresses have loose-fitting bodice variations, raised (elasticized) waist, and applied, bias ruffles (raw edge finish) with heading. I made view D which has a mock wrap, bias bodice and sleeves cut with the bodice. Purchased bias tape finishes the neckline, and armholes.

Pattern Sizing:

6 – 22

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I like the pattern. Its a fun, easy to wear dress. I don’t like that it takes a lot of fabric :-)

Fabric Used:

Lightweight cotton jersey

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I cut a size smaller than I normally would. I did not cut the back pieces on the bias. I didn’t think there was a need too given the stretch fabric I was using. I think this pattern does run large so cutting on the bias may make it stretch more than necessary. I didn’t add anything to the length. With the ruffle it is a good length for me (5’3″). I sewed cotton tape in to the shoulders and along the bias edges of the bodice fronts. I finished the raw edges of the elastic casing before sewing it in place. I used a gathering attachment on my overlocker to create the lower ruffle, rather than the suggested sewing on to create a raw edge finish. I ended up removing the upper ruffle as I didn’t have enough fabric to create an adequate ruffle.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Not sure I would sew again. Yes, I would recommend to others.

Conclusion:

With the fabric I used and the lower ruffle this dress makes me feel fun, flirty and feminine. I can see me wearing this dress a lot over the summer months.

McCalls 6694

McCalls 6694

About these ads

Tags: , , , ,

About sewmanju

I love to shop, but I also love to sew my own clothes, and am currently on a mission to improve my (fairly basic) dressmaking skills. I confess to going into shops and being outraged at the prices of some (not very well made) garments (is it an age thing?) and think "huh, I could make some thing at least as good as that for less" (is it something to do with coming from the Indian subcontinent?) So this blog details my sewing endeavours, both good and bad....I love to nosey through other people's sewing projects....now everyone can get to see mine.

24 responses to “McCalls 6694 dress: now you see it, now you don’t.”

  1. sewingnasize11shoe says :

    Either choice would have been great. But its about how u feel in the garment.

  2. sewmanju says :

    Thanks Sewingnasize11shoe.

  3. Sam says :

    It looks great. I think you made the right decision in taking the other ruffle off.

  4. BeaJay says :

    I like both versions – but a little more partial to the attached frills – for something different – but you have to be happy with it.

  5. Velosewer says :

    I like your choice. You’ve editted it to suit your style.

  6. MrsAlex says :

    Love the dress – and de-ruffling it wad definitely the right decision! Looks much more sleek and elegant without.

  7. Amanda S. says :

    You know, I saw these pictures and thought – what pattern can this be? It is super cute! Then I realized it was one I’d seen before only without the second ruffle. What an improvement! That upper ruffle adds a lot of volume to the bottom – not a bad thing but not something I personally go for. So thank you very much, I am definitely adding this to my humongous stash of patterns. I love your version!

  8. Beth (SunnyGal Studio) says :

    Cute and sophisticated summer dress and looks SOOOO good with just the one ruffle. Definitely the right choice. and I know exactly what you mean about changing wardrobe needs after years in the business world.

  9. Pella says :

    Another vote for the ruffle off decision.

  10. Lynn says :

    Beautiful! I think you made the right decision to leave the ruffle off. I love your personal style!

  11. Carolyn says :

    I like the dress with the extra ruffle off. The dress is very pretty and you look great in it!

  12. Sassy T says :

    That is one cah-yoot dress.

  13. nothy says :

    This is a fabulous dress on you. I like it with and without the ruffles. You did a fantastic job!

Trackbacks / Pingbacks

  1. McCalls 6844: DIY Crochet Effect Knit Cardigan | sewmanju - July 24, 2014

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 245 other followers

%d bloggers like this: