McCalls 7058 and Grainline Archer: DIY White Linton Tweed Boucle Cropped Jacket and Striped Linen Shirt

McCalls 7058 White Cropped Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket, worn with Striped Linen Grainline Archer shirt.
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McCalls 7058 White Cropped Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket, worn with Striped Linen Grainline Archer shirt.

Hey Friends,

I have mentioned before that I live very close (about 25 minutes drive since moving?) from Linton Tweeds in Carlisle. I don’t actually go there very often (although they do a mean lemon meringue pie :-)), and I have yet to purchase any fabric from a roll. What they do have is pre-cut 1 metre skirt lengths for substantially less than the roll price, often with an offer if you buy 2 at the same time. So in my stash I have a few pieces of Linton Tweed fabric in skirt lengths.

What I have realised is that buying these skirt lengths is, for me, not that useful. I don’t make skirts from them, and for me, I probably need more than a one metre length to cut a decent jacket from. But I had two skirt lengths of this white boucle and determined to make something from it I set off. Here’s a close up of the fabric because it is hard to see the beautiful texture in the photographs (sorry the outdoor shots were taken early one cloudy morning):

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McCalls 7058 White Cropped Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket – close up of fabric texture

I needed a pattern that didn’t require too many pieces. Vogue 7975 was out because, with the two piece sleeves I felt I wouldn’t have enough fabric. I also wanted a fairly quick make which didn’t require a lot of fitting. I eventually decided to make a modified version of McCalls 7058 which I made a winter version of earlier this year. Here’s what it looked like last time to refresh your memories:

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McCalls 7058 Basket Weave Interlined Wool Winter Coat

Here’s my modified version:

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McCalls 7058 White Cropped Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket, worn with Striped Linen Grainline Archer shirt.

Here’s how I approached the sewing and the modifications.

First off, and I don’t recommend this as a general rule for Linton Tweed, I prewashed my fabric. Linton Tweed fabrics are woven using a mixed composition of fibres and if you prewash you do run the risk of ruining your beautiful fabric. But as this fabric didn’t cost me much (less than £15 for both cuts), and I really couldn’t face having a white jacket that wasn’t washable I just went with it, washing it on a gentle cycle with a wool appropriate detergent. It worked out fine. Fabric was unaffected.

Next I block fused my two 1 metre lengths using a light weight weft insertion fusible interfacing. I lined the two selvedge edges up and fused using my press cloth and an iron. Made the fabric much easier to handle as well.

In terms of pattern modifications I:

  • removed 4 inches from the View A cutting line for the body
  • removed 5 inches from the sleeve length
  • removed 1 inch from the centre fronts so there was no overlap

For a full pattern review see my first version.

I wanted a very soft look to the jacket so I kept the tailoring to a minimum. I added a backstay and stabilised the front edges and neckline using twill tape hand stitched in place 0.5 inches from the neck edges and 5/8ths inch from front edges.

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McCalls 7058 Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket – back stay

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McCalls 7058 Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket – stabilising neck and front edges using twill tape.

I added very light shoulder pads and hand stitched all the hems. Here are some pictures on the (too small) dressform. You can see that even though this is a one piece sleeve the elbow dart gives some nice shaping. The jacket is fully lined with a lightweight viscose twill lining.

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McCalls 7058 White Cropped Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket – side view

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McCalls 7058 White Cropped Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket – inside lining – front view

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McCalls 7058 White Cropped Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket – inside lining back view

On this next side lining view you will see a glimpse of my new custom woven clothing labels which were very kindly made for me by Dutch Label Shop – blog post to follow on those.

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McCalls 7058 White Cropped Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket – side view – inside lining

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McCalls 7058 White Cropped Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket, worn with Striped Linen Grainline Archer shirt.

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McCalls 7058 White Cropped Linton Tweed Boucle Jacket, worn with Striped Linen Grainline Archer shirt.

So this is a very plain and simple jacket but I think it will get lots of wear on the cooler days of our great British summer, especially over dresses. I haven’t added any fastenings or trim to this jacket…I did toy with the idea of adding various trims but I figure I can always go back and add something later if I want. I quite like the simplicity of it. It feels so soft and light on, almost like a cardigan.

A brief mention of the shirt. This is version number 5 of Grainline’s Archer shirt. Made in a striped linen that I bought in India. Hard to photograph but lovely to sew, press and wear (although it being linen you have to deal with the creasing!) My only complaint about the Archer pattern is that I don’t like the 0.5 inch seam allowances because it makes flat fell seaming difficult. But it’s worth doing IMO.

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Striped linen Grainline Archer

Have a great weekend and enjoy Father’s Day.

Until soon!

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Striped linen Grainline Archer

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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About sewmanju

I love to shop, but I also love to sew my own clothes, and am currently on a mission to improve my (fairly basic) dressmaking skills. I confess to going into shops and being outraged at the prices of some (not very well made) garments (is it an age thing?) and think "huh, I could make some thing at least as good as that for less" (is it something to do with coming from the Indian subcontinent?) So this blog details my sewing endeavours, both good and bad....I love to nosey through other people's sewing projects....now everyone can get to see mine.

39 responses to “McCalls 7058 and Grainline Archer: DIY White Linton Tweed Boucle Cropped Jacket and Striped Linen Shirt”

  1. Susan Hardman says :

    Great job! I love both items. You look fabulous in the outfit.

  2. SaSa says :

    Your outfit is beautiful! Your cropped jacket looks so lovely and I think that it is a very useful addition to a wardrobe. I love your Archer blouse, too. The thin rosecoloured linnen is so pretty. I am doing my french seams with the quilting foot (it has even got a little guide), so the distance of two seams is exactly 1/2 inches. When the seam allowance being 1cm, I put the needle one point to the right so the distance is correct again.

  3. craftycreeky says :

    Love your jacket, I’ve a few lengths of Linton Tweed, waiting to pluck up the courage to sew them! Archers is my shirt pattern of the moment, I agree about the 1/2″ seams!

    • sewmanju says :

      Thanks Margaret. I think whether I should add 0.25 inch to the shoulder/ top of sleeve seams and maybe I will: but 5 shirts in and I haven’t yet!

  4. Sew Jean Margaret says :

    Lovely outfit…cute jacket but I really love your pink Archer. Such a beautiful colour.

  5. Hila says :

    Love evrything about this outfit. Beautiful.

  6. Kathy says :

    Two more lovely makes!! I love that jacket fabric. Both pieces look fantastic on you 😃

  7. Maria says :

    Beautiful! I really appreciate the construction photos.

  8. Jen (NY) says :

    Nice outfit! The jacket is terrific, and is a really nice use of the Linton fabric. I also love the pink linen shirt, which looks beautiful on you!

  9. Beth (SunnyGal Studio) says :

    what a great use for that fabric – such a nice jacket. looks very sharp and like you would have to pay a lot in a shop for it. Also I like how you have styled it with the pink shirt. lovely!

  10. Lindseykelly says :

    Great makes and a super great outfit!!!

  11. Margaret says :

    Thank you for such detailed posts. You make it very clear and easy to understand. I too purchased some fine wool boucle years ago and never had the confidence (courage) to cut into it. Sadly the moths had no such qualms and my lack of action resulted in a complete waste of lovely fabric. So well done you for finding a really interesting, comfortable and flattering way to use your lovely fabric.

  12. Donna says :

    Love the jacket and the shirt! Looks like both will get lots of wear over the summer.

  13. Trish says :

    Two lovely garments for our not so joyous June! I love the white jacket. And the pink shirt goes beautifully with it. At least you will be warm.

  14. Leanna says :

    Lovely outfit!

  15. Linda Jones says :

    Weft insertion fusible interfacing – I’m not sure what this is. Can you give a few more details as I have a piece of Linton tweed made with a lot of slippy ribbon in the weave so it’s going to fall apart if I don’t stabilise it before cutting.

  16. Mags says :

    Lovely jacket, I wouldn’t add any trim I like the sharp simple lines. I live near Kendal 1 hour from Linton perhaps a meet up in the future?

  17. black label says :

    LOVE this cropped version & the white is so chic! x

  18. danvillegirl says :

    I like white cropped version of this pattern! Looks great with pink top and gray pants!

  19. Tomasa says :

    I love the simplicity of the jacket and how you have put together the whole ensemble. GORGEOUS!

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