McCalls 6696: DIY Dark Denim Shirtdress

McCalls 6696 DIY Dark Denim Shirtdress

Hi Friends,

Remember a couple of posts back I outlined my sewing plans to try and enter the PR.com Wardrobe Contest? Well, this is my first item in the contest. Well, it is and it isn’t. First off, I changed my mind about my original plan to sew a denim dress using Vogue 9077. When I looked closer at that particular pattern, I thought it was going to take quite a bit of work to do an FBA. So I decided to go with McCalls 6696: you can see my first version here. Secondly, I have actually sewn 3 other items for the contest already, and am half way through the fifth item. I don’t honestly know if I am going to make the deadline or not (10 items in 2 months is an awful lot!) but there’s still time…

Anyway, back to this version of McCalls 6696. I am just going to go straight to the pattern review below. But I do want to say that I love this version. I tried to distress the (80z) denim somewhat using sandpaper, and for the most part I think it’s worked. I didn’t think I would like slimmer skirt option of this dress, but, surprisingly, I do. Even though this is a casual denim dress I still feel smart and comfortable wearing it.

McCalls 6696 DIY Dark Denim Shirtdress

McCalls 6696 DIY Dark Denim Shirtdress

McCalls 6696 DIY Dark Denim Shirtdress

Pattern Review

Pattern Description:

Dresses have collar, collar band, self-lined yoke back, close-fitting bodice, and band. A: carriers, purchased belt. A, B: pleated skirt, side pockets. A, C: purchased bias tape finishes armholes. D: sleeve bands. C, D: semi-fitted through hips, side front pockets, stitched hems. Bias, close-fitting slip has shoulder straps and very narrow hem. A/B, C, D cup sizes.

Note: I made view D, with the belt tabs from View A, and I also switched the sleeves out for long cuffed sleeves with a continuous lapped placket from Vogue 9077.

Pattern Sizing:

8 – 24. This is one of those multi-cup sized patterns so no need for an FBA.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes, apart from the sleeves.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yep.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I don’t know why it took me so long to make a second version of this dress! Well, maybe I do. There are quite a few pieces that need to be cut, some with interfacing, and quite a few markings that need to be made. But it’s definitely worth it. There is nothing I dislike about this dress. Except maybe the gathers at the back, but I can live with them.

Fabric Used:

8oz denim throughout, including the facings.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I initially added 1 inch to the length, but ended up removing 1.5 inches from the length in the end.

I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment on the back bodice.

I had to cut the yoke on the cross grain due to fabric constraints.

I used the burrito method to attach the yokes.

I used contrast topstitching thread and didn’t do any of the hand sewing the pattern advised, except for the inner waistband. I would have liked to have topstitched this as well, but due to the belt loops being attached before the waistband is joined to the bodice this wasn’t possible. If I wanted to do this I should have bar tacked the belt loops on after attaching the waistband.

Any other changes are highlighted in my first review of this pattern.

I attempted to distress the denim by using fine sandpaper and a sanding block.

I set the sleeves in flat to get the faux flat fell stitch finish on the top of the sleeves: the inside of this dress is all overlocked.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes. I might sew this again. It’s a great pattern. Yes, I highly recommend.

Conclusion:

I think this dress is flattering and comfortable, but the dark denim still makes me feel smart. Love the waistband detail and the slimmer skirt on this version.

See you all soon with hopefully some more Wardobe Contest sewing!

Until soon…

McCalls 6696 DIY Dark Denim Shirtdress

Edited to add: check out this Boden denim dress….very similar in style, don’t you think?

Boden Denim Dress

 

McCalls 6696: DIY Navy Linen Shirt Dress

McCalls 6696: DIY navy linen shirt dress

Hello Friends,

Good morning from a sunny corner of Cumbria. A few weeks back I attended the Minerva Meet Up. I am sure from other blogs you would have already read details of the day. It was a well organised and well attended event, and it was great to finally meet some other bloggers, readers and sewists in real life. The Minerva Crafts store itself is laden with amazing fabrics and of course I did end up buying some fabric, including this navy blue 100% washed linen (at least I think it is that one…that’s the only one I think it can be from the website).

The fabric is gorgeous. It has a wonderful weight to it, and was a pleasure to sew. It was a considerable purchase, which is why I wanted to go for a fairly classic design. This is a dress I hope I will wear for many summers to come.

McCalls 6696: DIY navy linen shirt dress

The pattern is McCalls 6696 (you remember I made the slip from this pattern in my last post). I love the finished dress, although I don’t know if I need to do a very slight FBA next time around (even though this is one of those patterns that has multi-cup sizes, which generally work well for me). I love the pleated skirt and the waist band. I wish I had added the belt loops (I had even cut them out), but left them off last minute because I thought it would restrict what belts I could wear with this.

Here’s the back view: I removed 1.5 inches from the centre back pattern piece, which was then cut on the fold, thereby effectively eliminating 3 inches in total.

McCalls 6696: DIY navy linen shirt dress

Unusually for me, I kept the pockets in 🙂

In my last shirt dress review, I tried using Andrea’s method of attaching the collar…and had mixed feelings. Well, I tried it again, and have to say this method has definitely grown on me….the results are much more precise.

McCalls 6696: DIY navy linen shirt dress – collar close up

I just serged the insides for a clean finish (3 thread wide overlock).

McCalls 6696: DIY navy linen shirt dress – serged seam

Check out the full review below.

McCalls 6696: DIY navy linen shirt dress

Pattern Review:

Pattern Description:

Dresses have collar, collar band, self-lined yoke back, close-fitting bodice, and band. A: carriers, purchased belt. A,B: pleated skirt, side pockets. A,C: purchased bias tape finishes armholes. D: sleeve bands. C,D: semi-fitted through hips, side front pockets, stitched hems. Bias, close-fitting slip has shoulder straps and very narrow hem. A/B, C, D cup sizes.

I made view B.

Pattern Sizing:

8 – 24

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the finished shape, with the pleated, full skirt and the waistband. Great for my figure. There is a fair amount of hand sewing involved in this dress….normally I would have topstitched everything, but with the linen it just didn’t look right, so hand sewing it was. I wish I had added the belt loops.

Fabric Used:

100% washed linen with a great weight to it.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

Minimal, although next time round I don’t know if I would do a very slight FBA or just cut the next cup size up. The only changes I made were to add an inch to the length (though probably not necessary), and do a 1 inch sway back adjustment. Oh, and I removed 1.5 inches from the centre back pattern piece, which was then cut on the fold, thereby effectively eliminating 3 inches in total. I had to get creative again with the cutting layout, just squeezing this dress out of 3 metres of 137cm/ 55 inch wide fabric. I ended up cutting my waistband in 2, so it has a join in the centre back. I used the burrito method to attach the yoke, but did do all the other hand stitching as required.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, I would consider sewing this again….maybe the straight skirt view (view D).

Conclusion:

I have made the slip, now I have made the dress…and I am still not done with this pattern. Highly recommend, especially for curvy ladies.

I have 2 weeks to sew a swimming costume, a cover-up and attend a bra making course next week. Eek! Stay tuned to see if I can complete all my sewing before we head off to Barcelona in a couple of weeks. Until next time….

 

McCalls 6696: DIY navy linen shirt dress

Simplicity 2444 and McCalls 6696: DIY white eyelet dress and slip

Simplicity 2444, worn with McCalls 6696 slip

Hello Readers,

back again…so soon, you say? This dress was actually cut out and largely  sewn up before my last blog post (the Vogue jersey maxi). I don’t often start another project before finishing one, but somehow I was craving a maxi, so this one was left to be hemmed. Also, having decided to make this dress unlined, I need to make a slip to wear under it.

Simplicity 2444, worn with McCalls 6696 slip

Let’s talk fabric first. This fabric is pretty special to me, because a) I love eyelet (especially white eyelet) and I find it very hard to find and b) I actually bought this fabric in Paris (as talked about here, last year). I was waiting for the right weather/ pattern etc, and finally settled on the hugely popular Simplicity 2444.

Simplicity 2444, worn with McCalls 6696 slip

As mentioned above, I decided to leave the dress unlined (a decision I really dithered over), but I love the flirty, airy feel of the fabric. BUT this meant I had to make a slip of some kind. That’s where McCalls 6696 comes in…not only does it have a great (still to be sewn) shirt dress pattern, but it has a slip pattern as well. Very handy.

McCalls 6696 slip

Overall, I love this dress and how I feel when I wear it. That’s not to say the fit is perfect. I think the front waist needs to come down a tad. But that won’t stop we wearing this dress. And the slip is the best fitting bias cut slip I own (all others being RTW).

Simplicity 2444, worn with McCalls 6696 slip

Simplicity 2444, worn with McCalls 6696 slip

Pattern Review:

Simplicity 2444

Pattern Description:

Inspired by Project Runway. Misses’ Dress sewing pattern with collar and sleeve variations.

Pattern Sizing:

4 – 20.

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

I think so, but I chose to do my own thing – see below.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I love the final outcome. Nothing to dislike really.

Fabric Used:

Cotton eyelet purchased last year in Paris.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I added about 1.5 inches to the sleeves. I can’t stand tight sleeves at the best of times, so forget during hot weather.

I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment.

I omitted the pockets – this meant I didn’t follow the provided instructions, which have you sew the front bodice to the front skirt, and the back bodice to the back skirt before sewing the front to the back at the sides. Instead I constructed the bodice (sewing front to back and sewing side seams), constructed the skirt (sewing front and back together at side seams) and then sewing the bodice to  the skirt.

I used an invisible zip.

I added 1.25 inches to the length of the skirt, but TBH it was not necessary.

Next time around I would bring the front waist down a tad.

Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

Yes, I might sew this again. Yes, I recommend.

Conclusion:

I am very pleased I made time to sew this pattern – I can now see why it has been so popular.

 

McCalls 6696

Pattern Description:

Bias, close-fitting slip has shoulder straps and very narrow hem.

(Note: this pattern is for a shirt dress and includes a pattern for a slip. I sewed the slip only and so this review relates only to that).

Pattern Sizing:

8 – 24

Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it?

Yes.

Were the instructions easy to follow?

Yes.

What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?

I think this is a great pattern to have on hand. The fact it is included as part of a shirt dress pattern is a bonus. Nothing to dislike.

Fabric Used:

Fine cotton lawn.

Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:

I would strongly advise sizing down, to account for the bias cut nature of this garment.

I did a 1 inch sway back adjustment by pinching out the required amount, tapering to nothing at the side seams.

Shortened slip length by 2 inches before cutting out.

I used a Schmetz 70 needle for fine fabrics.

I used French seams to sew the side seams.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?

I might sew this again as required. It is a great pattern to have on hand: I highly recommend. Be warned there is some very delicate sewing on this project: rolled hems at the armholes/ necklines and the hem, and I made my straps with my rouleau turner. But I am very pleased with the finished garment.

Conclusion:

A great basic. This slip fits me better than any other bias cut slip I own (all RTW). We are lucky people to be able to sew for ourselves 🙂

 

Until soon, and have a great week!

Simplicity 2444, worn with McCalls 6696 slip